Putting the door panels back on

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Old Jan 6, 2002 | 02:46 AM
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TheBigGuyRy's Avatar
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Question Putting the door panels back on

Recently I took my door panels off to install a new component speaker system in my '98 F-150 supercab Lariat. When I put the door panels back on they seemed to fit perfectly, but as the days went by I noticed I was hearing alot more outside noises (engine, wind, etc...). Is it possible they're not on all the way? I hate to take them off if it's just my imagination, because I rigged alot of wiring for the speakers in them.

Has anyone else ran into this problem? Was it hard to get the panels back on the first time for you guys?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2002 | 08:11 PM
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When installing car audio, I've always had problems re-installing a door panel for the first time. It gets easier as you do it again.

(BTW, it's also a good excuse to slap some dynamat on your doors while the panel is off )
 
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 05:53 AM
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OK Corpsie...Tell us where you get it...

I just wrote a thread about sound deadening my doors better or at all. There is nothing there. Bare as a baby's butt.

So what is this "dynamat" material and how do you apply it?

Thanks in advance,

BillVoyles
RedLowRyder
 
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Old Jan 8, 2002 | 01:28 PM
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You can get dynamat @ any car audio place, best buy, circuit city, etc... You can get the sticker kind (no heat gun) or the kind that requires a heat gun.

I was just naming a major brand name (for those who are into car audio). There may be better and more affordable stuff on the market. I think some people use generic 'tar paper' and it works in the same manner. There is also the spray-on option, but I don't know much about it.

go to www.deja.com
in the group rec.audio.car
and search for sound deadening or dynamat for a better resource.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 08:01 PM
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Dynamat is about the only stuff on the market. Don't get the non-sticky stuff - worthless! Get the stuff with the blue backing that peels off....then take a propane torch to the peice, but don't let the glue burn, or the material melt too much......you'll see the glue change to a less glossy finish when its heated right.......becareful when you pick the peice up - it'll be hot, and very bendy.....

I can't tell you how much of the stuff I've put in......I worked at Circuit City as an installer for a few years.......the stuff with the silver front is the best stuff....a little more expensive, but well worth it....

Robbie
 
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Old Jan 13, 2002 | 03:49 AM
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isn't the "silver" stuff for underhood and undercarpet applications where heat shielding is necessary?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2002 | 09:03 AM
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The silver backing is a "constraining" reinforcing layer which forces the damping compound into a shearing motion. These layers are usually thin aluminum foil or maybe mylar polyester. The regular dynamat does not have this kind of backing; its damping is primarily by flexing. Shearing motion does a lot more work on the compound (translating more of the motion into heat) and is a lot more effective for damping.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 08:34 PM
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check this out, it is the same exact stuff minus the pretty dynamat stamp on it. why overpay!!

Mcmaster carr dynamat part number 9709T19
 
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Old Feb 18, 2002 | 08:56 PM
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Thumbs up Hi Temp Mastic from McMaster

Just got done doing the doors in my Scab with this stuff. Very easy to use and MUCH cheaper then Dynamat. I think I got 24 square feet for $30. Seemed good to me.

Bob
 
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Old Feb 20, 2002 | 10:45 PM
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Question

Did you use new fastners on the door panels to make sure they are tight? Not sure if that might be part of the problem but whenever I remove the panel I try to use new black fastners to hold them in place. Arournd here they are available at NAPA.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2002 | 10:56 PM
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Question What black fasteners?

The only thing that was holding on my door panels was two screws.

Bob
 
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