Rear under seat storage bin
#16
#17
#18
Du-Ha under seat bin
I found some on Amazon for under $200
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...s=duha&x=0&y=0
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...s=duha&x=0&y=0
#19
#20
Not directed at me, I know ..... but it inspired me.
I too looked at the commercial versions, nice .... but I like making my stuff.
I built mine of 3/4" thick wood, shortsides and the long middle piece. The longer piece is "scribed" to the contours of the floor just underthe front edge of the seat. Use a piece of wood about 4" wide to start, do the scribe first, get cut to fit on sabre saw or band saw .... then cut width to ends under seat. Two end pieces are mostly almost square, glued to ends of long front piece on back side. Look on driver's side, you'll see two holes in seat mount, drill two like that in pass siide.
Then using a 6" long 1/4" bit, drill holes in two ends (4 total). I too covered mine in vynil .... but first I applied a good coat of clear laquer and sanded it smooth and applied a second to provide a smooth glass like surface for the vynil's adheasive to "grab onto" as it don't work so good on plain wood always.
I used adhesive backed heavy duty pebble grained vynil I got off Ebay in a roll . It's intended for steps pads on trailers, steps, etc. On the front sides at ends, I added polished aluminum strips with holes drilled to match to tighten agaisnt so top NOT tear vynil. Gives it a "finished" look. Look close, you'll see two shorter aluminum strips near center front (they have short counter sunk polished brass screws in them) , they cover seams where I had to piece the vynil together length wise as I was short a long enough piece to do front and sides in one piece .... though you could if you had one long piece. (I have since ordered 25 more feet, but it looks good as is I think so I'll wait on recovering it).
I made the aluminum wider pieces, used polished stainless steel nuts and threaded rods with the polished SS nuts locktited in place, and there are nylock nuts behind the seat brackets that are just "snuged up". If the seat is locked down, there's no way to remove ity short of busting it. I also added a single long bolt with a tuibe spacer over to the right of the hump, left of jack storage. Likewise, there's a single stainless steel screw with an upholstery washer in top at each corner going down just to secure the vynil in a wear area. On the back side where the vynile folds over, out of sight, I also stapled it to the wood with a power stapler .
The cheap black blanket is to protect my seat, the wooden box is te elevate our little girl's (Yorkie Pom) carrier.
What ya think? I get a chance, might take more pics if it ain't too cold, with seats "up".
Later .....
I too looked at the commercial versions, nice .... but I like making my stuff.
I built mine of 3/4" thick wood, shortsides and the long middle piece. The longer piece is "scribed" to the contours of the floor just underthe front edge of the seat. Use a piece of wood about 4" wide to start, do the scribe first, get cut to fit on sabre saw or band saw .... then cut width to ends under seat. Two end pieces are mostly almost square, glued to ends of long front piece on back side. Look on driver's side, you'll see two holes in seat mount, drill two like that in pass siide.
Then using a 6" long 1/4" bit, drill holes in two ends (4 total). I too covered mine in vynil .... but first I applied a good coat of clear laquer and sanded it smooth and applied a second to provide a smooth glass like surface for the vynil's adheasive to "grab onto" as it don't work so good on plain wood always.
I used adhesive backed heavy duty pebble grained vynil I got off Ebay in a roll . It's intended for steps pads on trailers, steps, etc. On the front sides at ends, I added polished aluminum strips with holes drilled to match to tighten agaisnt so top NOT tear vynil. Gives it a "finished" look. Look close, you'll see two shorter aluminum strips near center front (they have short counter sunk polished brass screws in them) , they cover seams where I had to piece the vynil together length wise as I was short a long enough piece to do front and sides in one piece .... though you could if you had one long piece. (I have since ordered 25 more feet, but it looks good as is I think so I'll wait on recovering it).
I made the aluminum wider pieces, used polished stainless steel nuts and threaded rods with the polished SS nuts locktited in place, and there are nylock nuts behind the seat brackets that are just "snuged up". If the seat is locked down, there's no way to remove ity short of busting it. I also added a single long bolt with a tuibe spacer over to the right of the hump, left of jack storage. Likewise, there's a single stainless steel screw with an upholstery washer in top at each corner going down just to secure the vynil in a wear area. On the back side where the vynile folds over, out of sight, I also stapled it to the wood with a power stapler .
The cheap black blanket is to protect my seat, the wooden box is te elevate our little girl's (Yorkie Pom) carrier.
What ya think? I get a chance, might take more pics if it ain't too cold, with seats "up".
Later .....
Last edited by tbear853; 12-21-2011 at 01:32 AM.
#22
'03 Scab underseat storage
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...age+build.htmlI built mine out of 8" X 5/8" MDB, it fit nicely without much trimming. See my album for results.
#24
Thanks guys .... I need to open it up, take Abby's box out, flip the seat up and get a couple pics inside .... might "inspire" someone else?
Nice job Dave .... I took the liberty of posting a pic .... you and I did essentially the same almost, I just attached with 4 long threaded rods sections and I did drill two holes on pass side seat bracket like the two that were already there on the driver''s side. I also like the use of the corner braces inside, I used some wood and glue and long screws. In my pics, it'ld be some "black on black", shows up good in yours.
Anyone reading this .... Dave has a bunch of good piocs of his build. I "scriobed" my front to the floor profile, but Dave's method is great too, and maybe easier to follow with a saw.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...age+build.html
I built mine out of 8" X 5/8" MDB, it fit nicely without much trimming. See my album for results.
I built mine out of 8" X 5/8" MDB, it fit nicely without much trimming. See my album for results.
Nice job Dave .... I took the liberty of posting a pic .... you and I did essentially the same almost, I just attached with 4 long threaded rods sections and I did drill two holes on pass side seat bracket like the two that were already there on the driver''s side. I also like the use of the corner braces inside, I used some wood and glue and long screws. In my pics, it'ld be some "black on black", shows up good in yours.
Anyone reading this .... Dave has a bunch of good piocs of his build. I "scriobed" my front to the floor profile, but Dave's method is great too, and maybe easier to follow with a saw.
Last edited by tbear853; 02-01-2012 at 12:48 AM.
#26
bought a couple 36" x 8" black plastic flower planter boxes at home depot for $18 total. http://www.f150forum.com/members/one...0&ref=gnr-prev
#27
#28
Anyone interested in buying my corral for $60 plus shipping? I needed to raise my rear bench to allow clearance for a sub-woofer and had to make a new one. Photo avail on entrée #24, but I have a box added in the middle where I first tried to add a sub-woofer. Project failed when the speaker was too tall for the space by a 1/4 inch and I couldn't work around it. ph (520) 458-9088 after 6 PM AZ time.