Blower working but no air coming out
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Quick Fix
done this on a 97 f-150. in the passenger floorboard directly under the glove box is a black cover with a few screws. remove it. directly in front of the blower motor you will see a plastic rectangle about an inch wide by a foot long. use a utility knife & cut it out. take a wire brush to the condenser coil inside & tons of gunk will come out. spray it with a heavy cleaner like clr or alumibrite & let dry. glue or tape the rectangle you cut out back on. reinstall cover & your air will blow like new again. 15 min job. find pics by searching f150 cabin filter installation.
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From: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
done this on a 97 f-150. in the passenger floorboard directly under the glove box is a black cover with a few screws. remove it. directly in front of the blower motor you will see a plastic rectangle about an inch wide by a foot long. use a utility knife & cut it out. take a wire brush to the condenser coil inside & tons of gunk will come out. spray it with a heavy cleaner like clr or alumibrite & let dry. glue or tape the rectangle you cut out back on. reinstall cover & your air will blow like new again. 15 min job. find pics by searching f150 cabin filter installation.
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Guys who think it is freezing, note he said it is 2001 with manual. The amount of air flowing through evaporator is likely determined by blend door, that is it moves through it when set to max cold or through heater core if set to max heat, and somewhere between to come up with desired temp setting. That is I seriously doubt that all air must pass through evaporator before being temp adjusted to control setting.
Yes AC compressor can run in winter, but only down to near freezing. This is determined by an outside temp sensor, which might be defective, but if I remember correctly, disconnecting it will stop the compressor from coming on. I think it is located near front grill, in front of condenser. Disconnect it and check if compressor still comes on. It should not. (No telling what previous work might have shorted.) Or you could disconnect at the pressure cycling swith on accumulator and that should also stop compressor from coming on. Assuming conditions are that you really don't need cooling at this time, and see if you still get the restriction after some time.
Yes AC compressor can run in winter, but only down to near freezing. This is determined by an outside temp sensor, which might be defective, but if I remember correctly, disconnecting it will stop the compressor from coming on. I think it is located near front grill, in front of condenser. Disconnect it and check if compressor still comes on. It should not. (No telling what previous work might have shorted.) Or you could disconnect at the pressure cycling swith on accumulator and that should also stop compressor from coming on. Assuming conditions are that you really don't need cooling at this time, and see if you still get the restriction after some time.
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From: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
The amount of air flowing through evaporator is likely determined by blend door,
This is determined by an outside temp sensor
Last edited by projectSHO89; Oct 29, 2013 at 12:25 PM.
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Wrong. ALL of the air ALWAYS goes through the evaporator, regardless of any of the other settings. The blend door position determines how much air flows through or around the heater core.
Wrong. There is no such sensor. The lower floor of operation is set by the combination of the pressure-temperature behavior of the refrigerant and the individual characteristic/adjustment of the cycling switch which is usually mounted on the accumulator.
Wrong. There is no such sensor. The lower floor of operation is set by the combination of the pressure-temperature behavior of the refrigerant and the individual characteristic/adjustment of the cycling switch which is usually mounted on the accumulator.
Start with engine cold, before heater core would do anything and move temp control. Tell me that air is not colder when in cold position. That is evaporator air versus heater core air when coolant is till cold. That presumes outside temp is above upper 40's.
I don't remember exact temp range of disabling switch but recall it to be in lower 40's. On my 01 it is located to left of center in front of condenser and disables the clutch engagement when temperature is below that point.
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From: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
This is how the majority of Fords have worked for several decades.
If in doubt or in the dark, read the factory service manuals to learn how it works.
See post #20. It tells you how it works.
If in doubt or in the dark, read the factory service manuals to learn how it works.
See post #20. It tells you how it works.
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Guys who think it is freezing, note he said it is 2001 with manual. The amount of air flowing through evaporator is likely determined by blend door, that is it moves through it when set to max cold or through heater core if set to max heat, and somewhere between to come up with desired temp setting. That is I seriously doubt that all air must pass through evaporator before being temp adjusted to control setting.
Yes AC compressor can run in winter, but only down to near freezing. This is determined by an outside temp sensor, which might be defective, but if I remember correctly, disconnecting it will stop the compressor from coming on. I think it is located near front grill, in front of condenser. Disconnect it and check if compressor still comes on. It should not. (No telling what previous work might have shorted.) Or you could disconnect at the pressure cycling swith on accumulator and that should also stop compressor from coming on. Assuming conditions are that you really don't need cooling at this time, and see if you still get the restriction after some time.
Yes AC compressor can run in winter, but only down to near freezing. This is determined by an outside temp sensor, which might be defective, but if I remember correctly, disconnecting it will stop the compressor from coming on. I think it is located near front grill, in front of condenser. Disconnect it and check if compressor still comes on. It should not. (No telling what previous work might have shorted.) Or you could disconnect at the pressure cycling swith on accumulator and that should also stop compressor from coming on. Assuming conditions are that you really don't need cooling at this time, and see if you still get the restriction after some time.
And knowing this fact may help me troubleshoot this system.
Last edited by E_Net_Rider; Sep 6, 2014 at 10:40 AM.
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I seem to have resolved the issue temporarily by pulling the fuse for the air conditioner. Apparently the AC was running all the time although I was unable to actually see the compressor with everything else in the way. I did that several months ago and had no issues with the airflow with the heater running. Since warm weather is coming now I need to find out why the compressor is running all the time.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my cry for help.
Thanks to everyone who responded to my cry for help.
The clutch cycling switch is also a likely culprit and are relatively cheap and do go bad. Easy to change, just get the right one as their are multiple pressure ranges.
You may even have a short cycle condition where it runs, freezes up, but does not cut off long enough to deice before running again, eventually freezing over and blocking air flow. You might even have the sound deadener in the inlet condition I'm seeing which would restrict airflow and lead to icing.
The inlet restriction would/should not happen if using MAX selection.
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Similar issue 01 towncar.
Hey guys, sorry to be posting this here, but apparently I am the only person in the world with this problem. I have an 2001 towncar. New blower. Last one just died a slow death. I have very poor airflow out of any of my vents. Defrost, vent, floor, doesn’t matter. Almost like something is blocking the flow. I can hear the blower. And a little air movement but not like it should be. Any ideas? P.S. yes, I put the blower in, yes I put it in correctly. LOL.
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From: Middle Tennessee
I have read the whole thread.
unless you are telling me that my compressor is capable of freezing my coil even when the car hasn’t been driven, then this isn’t my problem.
My car car can sit for 24 hours, be started and as soon as the key is turned, there is an air blockage. We are talking immediately!
Does the compressor run when the car is parked and turned off too?
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From: Middle Tennessee
More info on my situation. I got this car this past winter. The air flow even then seemed weak to me. But it was a new car to me. I assumed it was the auto climate feature dialing down the blower.
When the blower went out, I purchased one from o Reilly’s. That one was bad or faulty. It would spin in reverse. The new one installed now, is spinning correctly. But there is just simply no airflow. It doesn’t matter if it’s 8 hours or 8 seconds of driving. There is very little air flow out of any of the vents. This includes the floor, the defrost or the dash vents. I have read online that there is an air inlet door that closes when the car is off, could this be closed (faulty actuator) or is this the same as the recirculating door? The recirculating door opens and closes. The air flow switches between defrost, floor and vents, as selected on the EATC. Vacuum to the EATC is testing at 25+/-. If I increase or decrease temperature, the temperature changes as it should, as well.
just Want and need to get this resolved. Hopefully help from someone who’s not as full of crap as the dealer, who is just guessing at the problem, or thinks I’m dumb because I got t*ts. I can upload video of actuators working, and the fan noises to YouTube if necessary. I am simply asking for guidance and advice.
When the blower went out, I purchased one from o Reilly’s. That one was bad or faulty. It would spin in reverse. The new one installed now, is spinning correctly. But there is just simply no airflow. It doesn’t matter if it’s 8 hours or 8 seconds of driving. There is very little air flow out of any of the vents. This includes the floor, the defrost or the dash vents. I have read online that there is an air inlet door that closes when the car is off, could this be closed (faulty actuator) or is this the same as the recirculating door? The recirculating door opens and closes. The air flow switches between defrost, floor and vents, as selected on the EATC. Vacuum to the EATC is testing at 25+/-. If I increase or decrease temperature, the temperature changes as it should, as well.
just Want and need to get this resolved. Hopefully help from someone who’s not as full of crap as the dealer, who is just guessing at the problem, or thinks I’m dumb because I got t*ts. I can upload video of actuators working, and the fan noises to YouTube if necessary. I am simply asking for guidance and advice.
Last edited by J. Daniels; Jun 19, 2018 at 08:56 AM.
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From: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
You focused on the wrong specific circumstance. You'll notice I used the qualifier of "probably". I, apparently incorrectly, assumed you'd read the whole thread and learn what to look for. Once you KNOW how the system works, you have a direction to focus on.
Last edited by projectSHO89; Jun 19, 2018 at 11:22 PM.
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If its completely blocked, even on start up. I'd look for a clogged pollen filter (if equipped)
Not specific to Lincoln Town Car, but I've also seen where random paper in the glove box can migrate out of the glove box and get trapped in the inlet of blowers
I'd pull the blower and do a visual inspection up into the air box
Not specific to Lincoln Town Car, but I've also seen where random paper in the glove box can migrate out of the glove box and get trapped in the inlet of blowers
I'd pull the blower and do a visual inspection up into the air box