Help My Moving Vents
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Help My Moving Vents
94 X 351w mfi 155000 miles. just rebuilt Eng. It was doing this before. Is this a vacuum prob. The vents move to defrost when on max. switch back to Reg and they do not come back. Turn off Eng for a moment and it goes back to vent. very aggravating.
Last edited by dptyscott; Aug 6, 2006 at 09:14 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38
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From: Omaha, NE
Just had this problem with my '96...
Two things to check, first: on the right (passenger) side of the engine compartment, look for a white plastic/nylon vacuum line going to an actuator on top of the box, right in the corner by the hood hinge. This line could be cracked/split, causing vacuum loss. Cut out the damaged part, and repair with vaccum hose from your local parts store. Mine was split, I fixed it, but still had the problem you describe, so...
I replaced the check valve. It's a small round thing, with a black line going in, and 2 black lines coming off it, one goes to the side of the heater box closest to the engine, the other goes in to the harness above the box. This check valve is between the heater box and the engine, just kind of hanging there.
This fixed the problem for me. Here's Motorcraft part #: D7OZ*19A563*A. It also had YG193 on the box. cost $7.40.
It has an extra outlet that has to be capped off, no big deal...
Good luck!
Tim
Two things to check, first: on the right (passenger) side of the engine compartment, look for a white plastic/nylon vacuum line going to an actuator on top of the box, right in the corner by the hood hinge. This line could be cracked/split, causing vacuum loss. Cut out the damaged part, and repair with vaccum hose from your local parts store. Mine was split, I fixed it, but still had the problem you describe, so...
I replaced the check valve. It's a small round thing, with a black line going in, and 2 black lines coming off it, one goes to the side of the heater box closest to the engine, the other goes in to the harness above the box. This check valve is between the heater box and the engine, just kind of hanging there.
This fixed the problem for me. Here's Motorcraft part #: D7OZ*19A563*A. It also had YG193 on the box. cost $7.40.
It has an extra outlet that has to be capped off, no big deal...
Good luck!
Tim
Last edited by timack; Aug 6, 2006 at 10:18 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
Thanks
Originally Posted by timack
Just had this problem with my '96...
Two things to check, first: on the right (passenger) side of the engine compartment, look for a white plastic/nylon vacuum line going to an actuator on top of the box, right in the corner by the hood hinge. This line could be cracked/split, causing vacuum loss. Cut out the damaged part, and repair with vaccum hose from your local parts store. Mine was split, I fixed it, but still had the problem you describe, so...
I replaced the check valve. It's a small round thing, with a black line going in, and 2 black lines coming off it, one goes to the side of the heater box closest to the engine, the other goes in to the harness above the box. This check valve is between the heater box and the engine, just kind of hanging there.
This fixed the problem for me. Here's Motorcraft part #: D7OZ*19A563*A. It also had YG193 on the box. cost $7.40.
It has an extra outlet that has to be capped off, no big deal...
Good luck!
Tim
Two things to check, first: on the right (passenger) side of the engine compartment, look for a white plastic/nylon vacuum line going to an actuator on top of the box, right in the corner by the hood hinge. This line could be cracked/split, causing vacuum loss. Cut out the damaged part, and repair with vaccum hose from your local parts store. Mine was split, I fixed it, but still had the problem you describe, so...
I replaced the check valve. It's a small round thing, with a black line going in, and 2 black lines coming off it, one goes to the side of the heater box closest to the engine, the other goes in to the harness above the box. This check valve is between the heater box and the engine, just kind of hanging there.
This fixed the problem for me. Here's Motorcraft part #: D7OZ*19A563*A. It also had YG193 on the box. cost $7.40.
It has an extra outlet that has to be capped off, no big deal...
Good luck!
Tim
My line was also broken and I replaced it but it to did the same thing , I will replace that check valve, thank you so much,,,, Capt Kim M Lada USMC
