Yes...I did the Heater Core myself on a 1997 F-150 4.2L. Started at dawn on Friday and thought I was done Saturday evening. The last thing I wanted to do was flush and re-fill the coolant. I hooked up the flush kit (capping the ends of the heater hoses first....didn’t want to foul my and core with gunk) and went the start the truck. The engine would turn over but not engage. I did this several times but no luck. After I stopped t look under the hood and check the electrical connections I noticed that the ding ding bell was going off without the lights being on or the key in the ignition. Now when I try to start it a LOUD clicking is heard under the dash somewhere....not what I am used to when the starter will not engage. I am off to the store when it opens to buy a new battery...to see if that helps.
I did lay onto of the engine to undo the heater hoses. Is there a chance I unhooked something doing that....is it possible to hook up the cab electrical in a way to not let the truck engage? Can a bad battery loose power being unhooked? The battery is 3 years old. HELP My final option is have it towed to my mechanic and have him try and fix it….but I would like to do it myself.

 

After searching this site...I discovered the faulty gasket issue with the 97 4.2L. When I hooked up the flush kit could I have forced fluid into the engine and caused hydrolock? What are the systems of this? Could the engine turn over but not engage...then nothing but loud clicking? Everything else works...lights, radio.

 

Chances are you just left something disconnected by accident underneath the dash. Check the connector going to the ignition switch and the bulkhead connectors that pass through the firewall on the driver's side. I forgot to tighten the bolt on one of those before doing a heater core in a Town Car and beat my brain for two hours before I found it.

 

Have been looking under the dash for 2 hours now and I cant find anything loose. I solved the Ding, Ding problem....I had to take the key ignition out of the steering column and when I replaced it I bent a little metal tab. I fixed that and the Ding Ding stopped.

I removed the battery and took it to have it tested and tested out at 718 CCA. When I undo the battery and replace the cables I am able to get the engine to turn over....but not start. After a few tried....the clicking comes back. The Guy at the Auto parts store suggested that I try and start it in neutral...I tried it and same result.

I am still hoping that it isn’t Hydrolock…..will the engine turn over but not start if this is the case? I am set to have it towed to the shop in the AM…but still looking into stuff.

 

Any chance one of the fuses in the dash panel fell out or came loose? I just had my heater core replaced (for the 2nd time in a year, and when I got it back from the mechanic, the fog lites wouldn't come on. Discovered the 5 amp dash fuse was MIA. Where it went, I have no indea, but just stuck another one in, and that fixed it.

The fact that it cranks and then clicks suggests the battery is discharged, but this hydro-lock thing might cause such a high resistance that it won't crank normally.

Good luck!

Jim

 

Well...Had the truck towed this morning to the shop and my trusty mechanic was waiting for me. He opened the passenger door...removed the kick panel and plugged in the inertia control module into the firewall....and the truck started right up. Boy, Did I feel foolish. He didn't want to charge me (another reason I keep going back to him). I did have the coolant system flushed and refilled. All seams well now....except no blower on my AC/Heat. Another project for tonight...see what else I left undone. But...the truck is running.

Thoughts…Now that I did it….I would do it again. The savings of $700 was worth it to me. I had the time off work for Thanksgiving and the basic ability to follow directions. I now have the satisfaction of doing a job like this. I would like to write Chilton/Haynes and complain about all the needless steps they put in their shop manuals and request that they fill the extra space with further detail and pictures.

I took pictures and when I figure out how…I will post them.

 

Well, that's interesting. You must have tripped it during the install as the only other way to do it is to hit something with the front bumper at "blow the airbag" speed.

At least it was simple. Most here are aware of the inertia switch, but who wudda figured it???????

If you gett the time to post the pics and describe the procedure, I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated.

Jim

 

Another forum reader sent me 20 page service manual instruction for the heater core and dash removal on my 97 F150 4.6,
I added my notes, tips, do's and donts for anyone that wants it..
And a comment or two about the heater hose tool and not removing the dash completely, saves lots of time and effort.
Dont let the dash removal scare you, its those heater hoses that really gets your blood flowin,
Don

http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/F-150...50_Exp_002.doc

 

There's a tool that has two hooks on either end of it, about a foot and half long that's used for grabbing heater hoses on minivans that works fine for releasing the quick disconnects on the heater hoses.

 

Hi Don,
I have a 2000 F150 Extended Cab, 4x4, Flairside shortbed with 77,000 miles on the 4.6 motor. I smell antifreeze with the heater on and the hoses are not leaking, so I am guessing that the heater core is leaking. Is removal of the 2000 core the same as removal of the 1997. I have your illustrated directions, so I am hoping they are the same or close. I appreciate any additional help you can provide.

Thanks,
Pat Catanzarite