I have a 97 F150 and the problem I am having is my A/C clutch works and blows cold for about 15 minutes of driving time then the clutch stops and the A/C gradually starts blowing hot air. Then to get the clutch spinning again I have to pop the hood and literally turn the clutch manually (with a wooden stick) and it will engage again and will stop again after about another 15 minutes and I have to repeat manually turning the clutch to get it to engage again. I checked the high and low pressure cycle switches as well as the freon level of the system and they are fine. Any suggestions?

 

First thing to check would be clutch disc air gap. Using a feeler gauge it should be between .018 to.033 . Turning it with a stick may be pushing the disc closer to the hub.Then when it clutch cycles the disc is to far away again to be pulled to hub assy.

 

I did as you said with a spark plug gapper and the space is .028

Any other idea's? Thanks for responding.

 

My truck had the same problem and it turned out to be that the clutch pack was seizing up. I guess it would work ok for a while and then get stuck. Same symtoms as yours it would work fine for 5 to ten minutes then the air would get warmer......and warmer.......Ford replaced the clutch assembly, and voila problem solved. hope this helps Phil

 

So I think my clutch is going bad as I have the same issues your describing and I can actually see the space and rattle going on with the clutch plate. Question is I'm wondering how hard it is to do myself. Any online guides or suggestions?

 

They're all just about the same, but look at these:

. .

 

Thanks ! I'll update you and let you know how it goes

 

I've got the hub off, but the coil is still attached and I can't seem to figure out how to remove it ... Any tips ?

 

Did you remove the "Field Coil Snap Ring" shown in the first diagram? If so, it's just a matter of carefully pulling the coil off the snout without damaging the snout or shaft. Use plenty of penetrating oil & let it soak.

Remember that it's perfectly OK to unbolt the compressor from the engine to position it for easy access, as long as you don't loosen or damage the refrigerant hoses.

 

Is the AC clutch suppose to be turning the entire time the AC is on? Mine is also blowing warm air. I bought the r134 recharge kit and the pressure gauge would go up and down from full to empty every 3 seconds. Then I notice what I believe would be the ac clutch, right behind the radiator fan, turn on and off at the same time. Does this mean my freon is full and the clutch is the problem? My heater works fine.

Don't mean to hijack your thread RICH6021, I just have a feeling I have the same problem.

 

I doubt it. You have a short-cycling compressor which usually indicates a low system charge. BTW, those low-only guages aren't particularly useful for determining the correct charge state. Better than nothing, but not by much.

The clutch is supposed to cycle (unless ambient conditions require a 100% duty cycle) to maintain the high-low system pressure differential within a prescribed range during A/C system operation. During cooler weather conditions, the compressor might operate only for a few seconds, the turn off for up to 20-30 seconds before the cycle repeats. Exremely hot and humid conditions might result in the 100% dudty cycle mentioned above.

Replacement of the clutch field coil is probably not needed anyway, tmwilkin. All you probably needed anyway was to remove a shim, not replace any of the clutch components. Since you're already committed past that point, you'd probably benefit from just replacing the rest of the clutch assembly and leaving the old coil installed.

Steve

 

Got it off AND back on again, it just took a little cajoling (sp) to put it back. Everything looks to be working like a champ. BTW, there was nothing left of the bearing when I pulled it off the insides just fell apart and the coil had melted inside...thus my difficulty getting it back together.


Thanks !