I replaced the heat core in my 99' f150. I had the radiator fumes blowing in the cab, yet I had no leak under the dash.....or so I thought. When I finally reached the heater core, it was wet and fluid had started collecting at its base. Replaced it and now everything works fine. Note however, the following:

1. I did not need to discharge the AC (I still do not know why anyone would have to)

2. It only took me 2 hours to get to the heater
core however, it took me OVER 4 hours to replace the core and put everything back! ha! (this does not include the time I spent, painting my stock tan dash black) I started last night and finished today.

3. The "quick release" heater hose connections were not quick to release. So, I used a Jig saw to cut the stock heater core metal lines from inside the cab! ha!

4. I did not have to drop the steering column. Instead, I put it at the lowest tilt and dropped the shifter arm into first.

5. I did not remove the air duct system molding. I only removed the bolts holding it in and pushed it back to have access to the plastic box that encloses the heater core.

6. Make sure that you test your AC/heater BEFORE you bolt everything together. I installed only portions of the dash, before testing it. The blower motor was not working. An AC/heater control panel plug-in was stuck in a duct and I did not see it. I had to remove a portion of the dash to get to the plug-in, but not a lot of it.

7. During the painting process, I dropped the glovebox assembly and broke the portion that keeps the container from opening all the way. Although, overall, the dash looks very good in black.....now I just need to color match the rest of the interior! ha!

8. I did not need to drain my radiator fluid.

9. Buy some foam weather sealer. The foam strip around the stock heater core will be stuck to the sides.

10. Remember that you have three o rings (two rubber and one plastic) in the heater hose. Those should be replaced, as well as the quick release connections. I did not replace any of it.

11. I still do not know if I connected the correct heater hose to the correct heater core connection. However, it appears to be working.

12. I had 16 screws left over. I know where some of them go, but one tour of duty per weekend, is enough for me.

As to their dash configurations, Ford could learn alot from the "Little Tikes" plastic toy manufacture

Note: Because I have heard horror stories about the airbags inflating and breaking guys necks!........I unhooked both the postive and negative battery cables and did not begin the dash tear down, until at least 6 HOURS later. BE VERY CAREFUL WORKING AROUND THE AIRBAGS. EVEN THOUGH, I DID IT, I AM NOT AN EXPERT AND RISKED MY PERSONAL SAFETY. I WOULD ADVISE GETTING TRAINED AND EXPERT ADVICE CONCERNING THE AIRBAGS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE THEM OR WORK AROUND THEM AND OR HAVE PROFFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE WITH THE AIRBAGS.

 

iron horse, removal and replacement of the dash in less than a weekend acutally does not sound too bad. I am getting ready to tear into mine and replace a broken blend door (Ford Quality was NOT Job 1 in 1999). I had thought about replacing the heater core while I was there just to save the headache of tearing it apart again later.

Is the heater core in the same box/plenum as the blend door? I think by the diagram I have that it is, but I want to be sure.

BTW, when I replaced the heater core & A/C evaporator in my Mustang I had a few screws left over also. No new rattles so I guess everything is ok.

 

At what point in this job did you first realize that you should have paid someone else to do it?

 

ROFLMMFAO!!!

 

I'd even spend two days to replace the heater core if it would save me about $800.00. Well worth it to me!

 

Yes it is. My heat core started going out at 114,000 miles. I have seen that they seem to go out around 70,000 miles or more. I think it would be a good ideal to go ahead and replace it as well. You have to remove the blend door assembly to get to the heater core anyway. The heater core is around $40 bucks. Be very careful removing the passenger airbag! Before you do anything, unhook both the positive AND negative battery cable and to be safe, I would wait at least half a day before beginning. Try to keep your head away from the front of the airbag at all times.

 

When I heard a horror story about an airbag going off and breaking a guys neck!

 

Thanks for the reply, iron horse. I only have 49k miles, but I think I'll get a new heater core anyway. I'm assuming the 'quick release' hose connections are similar to the fuel and a/c lines. I've had trouble with those before.

 

They look similar, but mine did not release the same way as the fuel lines (I was hoping to use my fuel line disconnect tools). You can supposely only squeeze the plastic connections inward and release the lines. I could not. I was going to use plyers on the connections but was afraid of breaking the plastic portions.

 

I also replaced my core recently, it only took (2) 6 hour days to complete, but that was to ensure i did not get frustrated and break something on accident. I also had about 16 extra screws when done. I learned when putting it back together that there is one screw you can remove first it will save you about 2-3 hours of work. again i learned this on reassembly.

 

Wow Iron horse. You should've only had to remove about 20 screws to do the job.

 

I wish! My wrist was sore from using the rachet on all those little 7 mm screws! ..........should have used a drill, but, like the goofus that I am, I did not think of it, until I was almost finished.

 

Hey iron. You didn't have to drop the column because you probably took out the cluster huh? Because I know there is a screw between the cluster and the column that you can't get to if you don't take out one or the other.

 

yeah, I took out the cluster. Yeah, I took it out to get to the air duct system molding. While it was out, I should have fixed my on again off again digital odmeter display. Sometimes when I start up the truck, the display light will be off, after 30 to 40 seconds, then it comes back on. However, it is taking longer for it to come back on.

I did not have to drop the column (although, that would have been one of the easier things to do), but I did bend the edges of the dash to its limits.

 

Well there is no fix for that odometer. The only way to fix it is to replace the cluster.