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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 04:17 PM
  #16  
ricekicker's Avatar
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From: Ft Lauderdale, FL, USA!
For the nitrous you are going to need to get a flip-chip (but you probably already knew that) - Be sure to keep that program once you get it tuned to your liking. Also...what intake are you changing to and why haven't you enjoyed the experience with the AF1? Does it hold too much heat?

Anyways...good luck on your mods!
 
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 05:00 PM
  #17  
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From: Houston, tx
I still stand by my assertion that an intake (a big cone) that sucks under air temperature is bad...

The stock airbox sucks for sure, but can be modified by adding intake tubing and a K&N.

So... What will I do? I dunno. Volant was supposed to have an all new box at SEMA that addressed a lot of current problems with the design. It was a closed system which pulled air through the fender but required that you cut the hole larger in the fender to use it. REM said the product they showed at SEMA wasn't all that good looking so I am back to the drawing board.

There have been several users that measured air intake temps with a cone and found that they do in fact introduce quite a bit warmer air into the engine....

JL has a fast air setup with a box that fits against the hood which could be trimmed with a rubber gasket. It has most of what I am looking for. I might try one, but not sure...

I believe that the best system for our trucks will ultimately be the one that uses some kind of heat shield/box to seal out engine compartment air, but still has enough intake tubing and such to draw air from the outside.

Ken
 
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:04 PM
  #18  
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From: Wishing I was in my Truck. Benicia, CA
I just (thursday before my trip to Vegas) set up a ram air using:

-Vacuum Cleaner attachment (the long rectangular nozzle)

-3" aluminum dryer tubing

-Dryer tubing coupling

The scoop fits nicely to the bar below the intercooler. There are little holes along it, perfect for mounting stuff.

1200 miles and some rain/wet road didn't make my stock filter too dirty. I noticed a little bit of black on the side of the filter close to where the tubing is coming up through the bottom of my air box.

I still want to use a cone filter attachment (AF1 is still my first choice) but some heat shielding would make sense. Does the AF1 filter attach to the mounting base of the box or do you remove the old airbox completely?

i just input all my reciepts into the cost calculator on Ownersite, it looks like I might have got an average of 0.5 - 0.75 mpg difference (better). But this could be due to me using cruise control, cooler ambient temps etc (although I did have 4 people in the truck and a loaded bed). . .
 
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 06:52 PM
  #19  
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I would look at it very simply.

OEMs build the stock airbox to pull air from OUTSIDE the engine compartment. It costs more to build the box than to simply stick a cone filter on the end. Why did they go to this trouble? It is because outside, colder air, produces more horsepower -- period. You can't argue with physics. The trick is to create a big enough box with adequate enough flow as to not impede airflow whatsoever but still pull from outside the truck AND not ingest gunk, goo, sand, and bugs...

So far, it seems that the fast air from PSP and the RAM air from JL are the closest to achieving the above results.

Volant's box was for a 80mm maf and had other major issues. They were supposed to redesign to accomplish what I have mentioned above but I don't think they accomplished that goal from what I have heard... My understanding is that they increased the intake tubing against the fender by 10mm which is about 1/3 of an inch. (why bother) and they increased the MAF size to 90MM. (duh) But they are still using a filter inside that is capped on the end rather than open. The air cannot possibly have a clean path into the intake with that cap in place. (another duh). Supposedly the S&B open ended filter would fit as a replacment and if you cut your fender well hole to the size of the neck, it might be ok... I don't want to be a guinea pig, though since I have been told by one person who saw it in person that it sucked.

AF1 may be your first choice, but I think it is wrong...

These are my opinions and beliefs and maybe they aren't correct, but you will NEVER convince me without raw data that is repeatable showing where more hot air from the engine compartment is better than less cool air from outside. Obviously there is some cross over there. WAY less cold air certainly starves the engine. So, I want WAY more COLD air

Ken
 

Last edited by ken800; Dec 3, 2002 at 07:20 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2002 | 08:07 PM
  #20  
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From: Week-Philly, Weekend-Dirty Souf Jerz
4WL HOGG, if you do get a conical filter, it might be a good idea to pick up an outterwears filter. they are water resistant and keep the filters alot cleaner, but don't hurt performance. JL runs them on all his trucks and said he's never noticed any loss of power with them on. It would be a good idea to get one especially since you are running a ram air setup and alot more dirt will get to the filter.
Might want to check out JL's intake, and get the filter and the box and hook your tubing up to it since its already has holes in it for their ram air kit, but you could probably bolt yours up to work with it
 
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 04:40 PM
  #21  
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From: Wishing I was in my Truck. Benicia, CA
Thanks 356, that is a good idea. Where Could I find an outerwears filter at a good cost (is that something I can get at the local Auto store, or do I need to order it?)
 
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 04:59 PM
  #22  
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From: Week-Philly, Weekend-Dirty Souf Jerz
www.johnnylightningperf.com sells them for like 25 bucks i think. its somewhere around there. There is another site that is the main manufacturer that sells them also, which is where johnny buys his in bulk i'd assume, but i don't remember the site. they are priced the same though. they come in different colors on the main outerwears site though, but i thihnk it looks kinda rice with a bright red or yellow prefilter, i dunno, just IMO I'm gonna get a black one, and thats what JL sells
 
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