Subwoofer Recommendations
I am cross-posting this from the subwoofer section:
I need recommendations for a 10" (round) subwoofer, power handling at 300 watts RMS, 600 watts peak, priced under $300.
I am thinking of replacing my 10" Alumapro Alchemy SVC, made a mistake long time ago since I got the SVC and not DVC. My amp is an Alpine MRD-M300 mono, 150 watts RMS (4 ohm) and 300 watts RMS (2 ohm), max at 600 watts. I want to squeeze every ounce of power I can from my amp.
Oh yeah... ear plug brands also
I need recommendations for a 10" (round) subwoofer, power handling at 300 watts RMS, 600 watts peak, priced under $300.
I am thinking of replacing my 10" Alumapro Alchemy SVC, made a mistake long time ago since I got the SVC and not DVC. My amp is an Alpine MRD-M300 mono, 150 watts RMS (4 ohm) and 300 watts RMS (2 ohm), max at 600 watts. I want to squeeze every ounce of power I can from my amp.
Oh yeah... ear plug brands also
Thanks for the input HD4mula!
The box is 99.99% done! Thank you so much for your diagram and all your help. FYI: HD4mula was so kind enough to share his work with me so I could build my own box and save over $500 versus the JL Stealthbox. The box is already mounted and the fit is awesome, just clipped two of the screw tabs by the rear and I left the alignment tabs in tact.
A few minor things that I need to do to really finish the job.
1. Make the slots or grind the edges so the box clears the front part of the console, maybe about 1/4 inch of grinding.
2. I only have 3 screws holding the lid, I'll put all of them in once the grinding is done.
3. Hide the speaker wire from the amp.
4. Clean up the truck!
From all the wood dust, and watch out for any rattles.
This afternoon I visited my audio guy's shop. I am right now deciding between an Alpine SWR-1041D ( 4 ohm+ 4 ohm), or a JL10W3v2 (4 ohm + 4 ohm). They both are 300 watts RMS, and I will be wiring them parallel to get a 2 ohm load so my amp will pump out the max it could give.
The box is 99.99% done! Thank you so much for your diagram and all your help. FYI: HD4mula was so kind enough to share his work with me so I could build my own box and save over $500 versus the JL Stealthbox. The box is already mounted and the fit is awesome, just clipped two of the screw tabs by the rear and I left the alignment tabs in tact.
A few minor things that I need to do to really finish the job.
1. Make the slots or grind the edges so the box clears the front part of the console, maybe about 1/4 inch of grinding.
2. I only have 3 screws holding the lid, I'll put all of them in once the grinding is done.
3. Hide the speaker wire from the amp.
4. Clean up the truck!
From all the wood dust, and watch out for any rattles.This afternoon I visited my audio guy's shop. I am right now deciding between an Alpine SWR-1041D ( 4 ohm+ 4 ohm), or a JL10W3v2 (4 ohm + 4 ohm). They both are 300 watts RMS, and I will be wiring them parallel to get a 2 ohm load so my amp will pump out the max it could give.
Last edited by chesterc; Dec 30, 2002 at 11:26 PM.
Oh yeah... I've got pretty good experience with Alpine equipment, so I am leaning towards the type Rs versus Jl's 10 W3v2.
My daily beater has:
Alpine CDM 7874, SWS-1041D(4ohm+4ohm), CHM-S630, 2 pairs of SPR-174A, Rockford Fosgate Punch 200M. All these in a $2000 worth of car
I am not really convinced that there will be any noticeable punch if I go with a 10" or 12" in the Harley, since I will be pushing them with the same power.
My daily beater has:
Alpine CDM 7874, SWS-1041D(4ohm+4ohm), CHM-S630, 2 pairs of SPR-174A, Rockford Fosgate Punch 200M. All these in a $2000 worth of car
I am not really convinced that there will be any noticeable punch if I go with a 10" or 12" in the Harley, since I will be pushing them with the same power.
Last edited by chesterc; Dec 30, 2002 at 11:50 PM.
In my Harley I have the JL10W3 and I think it is pretty clean hitting, but not that hard. I have the Kenwood KAC-849 powering it.
In my Disco I had 2 MTX Thunder 8000 powered by a Kenwood KAC-X520 and that was ground shaking. I know that most peopl think the MTX suck, but I had got a great price where I couldn't pass up on them so I gave them a shot and loved them.
As far as Alpine they have a a good rep when it comes to head units but I have heard alot of people complain about there component speakers and subs.
As far as subs I would have to say the top three names in my opinion are 1.Boston Acustic 2.JL and 3. Rocksford Fosgate
One of the best I have heard recently was the Rockford Fosgate HX2 RFR 3112. They hit real hard and balanced. The only thing is the magnet and air it needs take up too much space for a truck cab. But it is a sweet sub.
I know this is all over the place but I just wanted to give some other options.
In my Disco I had 2 MTX Thunder 8000 powered by a Kenwood KAC-X520 and that was ground shaking. I know that most peopl think the MTX suck, but I had got a great price where I couldn't pass up on them so I gave them a shot and loved them.
As far as Alpine they have a a good rep when it comes to head units but I have heard alot of people complain about there component speakers and subs.
As far as subs I would have to say the top three names in my opinion are 1.Boston Acustic 2.JL and 3. Rocksford Fosgate
One of the best I have heard recently was the Rockford Fosgate HX2 RFR 3112. They hit real hard and balanced. The only thing is the magnet and air it needs take up too much space for a truck cab. But it is a sweet sub.
I know this is all over the place but I just wanted to give some other options.
"The box is already mounted and the fit is awesome, just clipped two of the screw tabs by the rear and I left the alignment tabs in tact.
A few minor things that I need to do to really finish the job.
1. Make the slots or grind the edges so the box clears the front part of the console, maybe about 1/4 inch of grinding.
2. I only have 3 screws holding the lid, I'll put all of them in once the grinding is done. ..."
I clipped those screw tabs too. It's easier that way and you still can build the stock back. Putting the lids screws is just a little PITA but not that bad. I'm glad it came out ok for you. Please post pics when done.
A few minor things that I need to do to really finish the job.
1. Make the slots or grind the edges so the box clears the front part of the console, maybe about 1/4 inch of grinding.
2. I only have 3 screws holding the lid, I'll put all of them in once the grinding is done. ..."
I clipped those screw tabs too. It's easier that way and you still can build the stock back. Putting the lids screws is just a little PITA but not that bad. I'm glad it came out ok for you. Please post pics when done.
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Originally posted by chesterc
Thanks for the input HD4mula!
FYI: HD4mula was so kind enough to share his work with me so I could build my own box and save over $500 versus the JL Stealthbox.
Thanks for the input HD4mula!
FYI: HD4mula was so kind enough to share his work with me so I could build my own box and save over $500 versus the JL Stealthbox.
-Mark
$450, wow! I never found one in my area that would deal for less than $550. That's a really good deal. Again, I am sure the JL Stealthbox is outstanding, I just didn't have the cash for it.
$550 is list price and a lot of JL dealers won't deal off list. That's when I walk out. Luckily there are a few JL dealers around here to play each other off of. They were willing to deal when I told them I already was quoted a lower price at their competitor.
-Mark
-Mark


