Why a bad rap for 2003 6.0L Diesle?
Why a bad rap for 2003 6.0L Diesle?
I am wanting to purchase a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up and came across a 2003 F350 6.0L with 68,000 miles on it and selling for $22,900 at a dealership.
I looked online for any recalls on that model, and what I found was very dissatisfying. I am not sure if the people that were leaving these reviews were Chevy or Dodge fans trying to push people away from Ford, or is the 6.0 really something I should stay away from?
I will be using to pull a fifth wheel from time to time, a work truck (construction) and an everyday commuter. Please give me your suggestions. I need some help here.
I looked online for any recalls on that model, and what I found was very dissatisfying. I am not sure if the people that were leaving these reviews were Chevy or Dodge fans trying to push people away from Ford, or is the 6.0 really something I should stay away from?
I will be using to pull a fifth wheel from time to time, a work truck (construction) and an everyday commuter. Please give me your suggestions. I need some help here.
Just poke around and do some research until you're satisfied that you are thoroughly educated. 2003 was the first year for the 6.0, so it has issues simply because of that. All years of the 6.0 have issues though. However, there are ways to "bullet proof" them and turn them into very solid and serviceable motors. Look into/Google head studs and head gasket upgrades. You'll hear all kinds of "6.0 horror stories" from people that like to yell and holler. If you do the things to take care of its weaknesses, it should be fine. However, if you don't want to mess with altering anything, I agree that I would stay away. Also, I am by no means an expert of any kind, just trying to help out a bit.
We've been beating the **** out of this topic in the superduty section currently.
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You can tune them but just have the expectation that the head gaskets aren't going to live very long and mine made it a year after tuning it before I had to do the head gaskets. My truck will roll over to 188,000 sometime this weekend and I had the motor work done to my truck last October.
I am wanting to purchase a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up and came across a 2003 F350 6.0L with 68,000 miles on it and selling for $22,900 at a dealership.
I looked online for any recalls on that model, and what I found was very dissatisfying. I am not sure if the people that were leaving these reviews were Chevy or Dodge fans trying to push people away from Ford, or is the 6.0 really something I should stay away from?
I will be using to pull a fifth wheel from time to time, a work truck (construction) and an everyday commuter. Please give me your suggestions. I need some help here.
I looked online for any recalls on that model, and what I found was very dissatisfying. I am not sure if the people that were leaving these reviews were Chevy or Dodge fans trying to push people away from Ford, or is the 6.0 really something I should stay away from?
I will be using to pull a fifth wheel from time to time, a work truck (construction) and an everyday commuter. Please give me your suggestions. I need some help here.
head studs, EGR/egr cooler delete, a rock solid and they're good to go
Hey, I defend it now that I'm educated on them. They are not perfect engines. They do have problems. I weighed my options and went with the 6.0 as my better option knowing how to maintain it properly to prevent these issues from popping up.
Number 1 cause of failure? EGR system. First thing I did when I got mine? EGR delete and tuned for it.
Injector problems? Use motorcraft fully synthetic with motorcraft filter ONLY, changed at 5k, and change both fuel filters EVERY 10k miles. Motorcraft oil has a lot more boron in it compared to even rotella t6. Boron is the lubricant that saves injectors. Without it? Injectors stick and fail. Motorcraft also has more detergents in necessary to keep the injectors clean, again preventing the sticking problem.
Other than that, they run great. Stock to stock, they run and pull better than a 7.3. However, a 7.3 will hold up to high horsepower tunes, where as a 6.0 will blow head gaskets. ARP studs, and it will handle anything you can throw at it.
Let it warm up before you get rough on it too. Let those head gaskets slowly warm up and expand. Also note that this is a diesel and not a high RPM hot rod. So, leave the fuel perimeter tuning stock, and don't run it redlined and it should be a good dependable engine.
It is also a good idea to have a shop do a power flush to get rid of the Gold motorcraft coolant. Have them put something better in it that doesn't have silicates in it. The silicates gum up in the oil cooler. Get the gold crap out and oil cooler problem is solved.
That being said, if you want a diesel to abuse and beat up, buy a 7.3. It will take the abuse that 6.0 will not.
Number 1 cause of failure? EGR system. First thing I did when I got mine? EGR delete and tuned for it.
Injector problems? Use motorcraft fully synthetic with motorcraft filter ONLY, changed at 5k, and change both fuel filters EVERY 10k miles. Motorcraft oil has a lot more boron in it compared to even rotella t6. Boron is the lubricant that saves injectors. Without it? Injectors stick and fail. Motorcraft also has more detergents in necessary to keep the injectors clean, again preventing the sticking problem.
Other than that, they run great. Stock to stock, they run and pull better than a 7.3. However, a 7.3 will hold up to high horsepower tunes, where as a 6.0 will blow head gaskets. ARP studs, and it will handle anything you can throw at it.
Let it warm up before you get rough on it too. Let those head gaskets slowly warm up and expand. Also note that this is a diesel and not a high RPM hot rod. So, leave the fuel perimeter tuning stock, and don't run it redlined and it should be a good dependable engine.
It is also a good idea to have a shop do a power flush to get rid of the Gold motorcraft coolant. Have them put something better in it that doesn't have silicates in it. The silicates gum up in the oil cooler. Get the gold crap out and oil cooler problem is solved.
That being said, if you want a diesel to abuse and beat up, buy a 7.3. It will take the abuse that 6.0 will not.
Last edited by avfrog; May 22, 2013 at 10:46 PM.
Frog, I get ya bud! I said it as a little joke because you were wondering whether or not a 6.0 would be a good truck for you. But the fact that you got one is proof for the OP that getting a little edumacation and driving/maintaining like an adult will yield you a good truck. Having gone through the exact thought process that the OP has, and the conclusion you came to, would make me feel more comfortable buying one
^ ya I know. Haha
Just thought I'd give him a head start on the research. I looked at about every option before buying this truck.
OP - What ever you do, DO NOT BUY a lemon law truck! Read the fine print on lemon law sales. It's a scary deal for the buyer.
Just thought I'd give him a head start on the research. I looked at about every option before buying this truck.
OP - What ever you do, DO NOT BUY a lemon law truck! Read the fine print on lemon law sales. It's a scary deal for the buyer.
One thing is for sure though, engine aside, Ford builds the toughest, strongest, most dependable, and hardest working truck on the market. We just might have a few engine issues down the road with those of us with post 7.3 diesels. Haha
I drive a 2006 F-550 6.0L PSD as a daily. Its a E-ONE Fire Apparatus with about 31,000 HARD (and I mean H-A-R-D miles on her). I've taken it through burning forests, 4.5' flood waters of Tropical Storm Debby, and 82mph on the interstate going to wrecks. Personally I love it, but I cannot speak for the longevity of it. I can tell the glow plugs or injectors are starting to give us trouble on start up. After the GP light goes out, it needs about 5-7 second of cranking before it fires.









