Here is my shopping list, I'll let you guys look over it and give me some feedback. And I plan on getting a tumbler soon, but for now I will wash them the old fashioned way.

MidwayUSA Shopping List
Lee 4 Hole Turret Press with Auto Index Value Kit- $118.99
Lee Small and Large Safety Prime Feeder- $22.19
Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set .45 ACP- $39.49
Lee Case Length Gauge and Shell Holder- $4.99
Lee "Modern Reloading 2nd Edition, Revised" Reloading Manual- $19.99
Grand Total $205.65 + $20.35 S&H = $226.00 shipped

Missouri Bullet Company Shopping List
.452 Diameter .45 ACP 230gr Lead RN 1000ct- $86.00 + $13 S&H - $4.30 coupon (google is your friend!!!) = $94.70 Shipped

Cheyenne Brass Shopping List
Once-Fired Brass .45 ACP Large Primers Only 1000ct- $100.00 + UKN S&H = $120.00? Shipped

Local Shopping List
Smokeless Power 1lb- ~$25.00
Large Pistol Primers 1000ct- ~$35.00

GRAND FRIGGIN TOTAL TO START AND RELOAD 1,000 ROUNDS OF .45ACP: ~$480

Comparison of Cost Per Round
Wal-Mart PPU/50rd: $21.36 after tax or $0.42/round
Wa-Mart Federal/100rd: $34.42 after tax or $0.34/round
Academy TulAmmo/450rd: $181.89 after tax or $0.40/round
Reloading Start-Up (Brass, Primer, Powder, Bullet): $0.27/round
Reloading After (Primer, Powder, Bullet): $0.16/round

That's a savings of $300 per thousand rounds

 

im trying to get into it myself, but i cant get the old man convinced to buy a kit. My high power is $2+- a round for the cheap boxes. im shooting 2.50 at a time... dad is about 1.80 a round. soon to have my brother at roughly $1 a round. id like to do some competitive shooting now that i have a decent rifle. At the prices i cant do it long. i think i billed mine out at roughly the same, but i've been saving my brass for mine.

 

I use a Lee reloader for my 7mm. But I don't have it anymore.

 

Wyatt, that's A LOT to shoot! Jesus and I thought 40 cents a round was expensive.

 

To be honest, I have never been impressed with Lee. Take a look at Dillon products, They have great quality and they stand by their products.

My personal reloader is an RL550B, which I reload, 38spc, 357mag, 44mag, and 45acp.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/Dillo...hines-8-1.html

The other brand I have used and would purchase is RCBS.

 

Look at the RCBS reloaders.

 

I was looking in to reloading target shot shells before I realized it wasn't much cheaper. However, there is a lot of money to be saved reloading high power rifle rounds.

 

A Dillon 550B will be my next buy. I didn't want to start out spending $600+ on a progressive as a amateur. Also, I have no need for a progressive at this point. I'd use it for about an hour and not touch it for months. With my turret I can punch out 100 rounds every week or so.

 

If you are really not going to shoot a lot, then there really isn't much need for a reloader. If you are going to shoot a lot, why spend the money twice. You would not regret the Dillon. It does come with a set of dies, so that part is not an extra cost.

As far as reloading handbooks, I would suggest you get the book from the bullet manufacturer. If Hornady's, get their book, if Speer, get theirs. I happen to have both as I have used both manufacturer's bullets. Their numbers are specific to their bullets, not a general one for all.

 

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoot...3Bcat104532480

this is what i shoot. little more that 2.50 a round!

 

I'd suggest avoiding the Dillon for now. You need to learn how to reload correctly, not quickly. Quickly can get you killed when you have no clue what's happening with the Dillon. And the Dillons, while good units in experienced hands, are not perfect.

The Lee turret can be a good press but the auto index can be a pain. I wouldn't rely on the auto index as the springs are known to break. I'd take the Lee case gauge off of the list and add an inexpensive metal caliper. The Lee die set comes with the correct shell holder. Depending on where you live, a recycle center is the best place for used brass. They sell it by the pound and it's usually about 1/4 what you're paying. Missouri Bullets are fine if you like the filth that comes with the lead bullets and lube. I much prefer a plated bullet and not have all of the mess, but they do cost more. You didn't say what powder you're planning on using. I've probably used every powder out there at one time or another. Research actual accuracy and how clean it burns. You'll find some folks think that their 45's are extremely accurate if they can hit a 5 gallon can at 15 yds. I'd bury the POS if it were my gun. From bags, if a pistol doesn't shoot under an inch at 25 yds, it won't be mine long. Rarely is this the case though. Reloading is not about being cheaper so I hope this isn't your intentions. Reloading is just the opposite. You'll be shooting far more which will require more equipment, different powders, different bullets, etc. It's a disease and as far as I know death is the only cure. Be aware before catching the disease. But reloading is being able to tailor the ammo to the most accurate round that can be shot from your particular weapon. If you have other expectations, you'll be disappointed.

Oh yeah, that kit comes with the Lee powder measure. You need to chose a powder that works with this measure... like a ball powder or expect issues. This is not a great measure and it doesn't work with every powder very well. Like I say, select a ball powder and you shouldn't have any issues. The beam scale is just barely a scale and you need to know that it won't work where there is florescent lighting or near any type of air movement. I've been reloading since 1971 and just about seen it all.

 

Labnerd, I respectfully disagree about not starting with the Dillon. Any reloader will get you killed if you do not take the necessary steps to ensure you are doing the reloading correctly. The Dillon is what I started on, and have never looked back. I have used others (not my own) and was glad I had the Dillon. Especially when using a non-progressive. Not having to reset the dies every time you start reloading, just verifying that the settings from your previous run are okay. Something that can never be done with a non-progressive. That makes it a easier chance for a problem. Verifying the powder charge every 50 or so rounds is easy. The only real setup needed, assuming same case, etc, is if a different powder weight is used or a different bullet is used. For my setup, I purchased new tool heads when I purchased new dies for a different caliber. Again, that saves a LOT of set up time with the chance of making a mistake being taken away.
One of the best things to do is when trying a new setup, load about 10 rounds and try them. If using a non-progressive, you are almost starting from scratch when you go to load more, where with a progressive, you only need to make adjustments on those things you feel need changing.
Any reloader can be dangerous, if you do not take simple precautions.

 

I'm just starting to get into it and I'm using a Rock Chucker that I got free from a friend. I've got around 2000 rounds of 45ACP and 400-600 rounds of 9MM to reload before spring get's here and we start really shooting again and I'm already looking at buying a Dillon 650XL so I can keep up with the round count this summer then use the Rock Chucker strictly for match rifle rounds for both my .308's.

I have a feeling I'm going to break into 5 digit round count territory this year and I will break 500 rounds this month already.

 

Well I'm getting excited, my order is on its way.

 

One thing I missed before. I notice you do not have listed a scale for powder measure. You will definitely need one.