Did you lock up the rear brake causing the rear to slide out?

i had a similar close call on my dirtbike, going about 45 mph hit a 2ft x 2ft rock hiding behind grass in the middle of the trail in moab, utah. went over the bars and landing on the side of the hill to the left. to the right was a huge drop off. blacked out for a couple minutes got up with a concussion, cracked the helmet pretty good and an elbow about twice the size it was suppose to be.

 

Maybe Sand or gravel on the road.? Is like ice.

 

My first guess would be the classic "Failure to negotiate a Curve". I've seen it before many times.
Training and lots of practice can and will help you avoid this and other types of collisions.

To avoid this type of crash, find your bike's lean limits under controlled conditions. Practice turning ever tighter circles in a parking lot until you get comfortable leaning your bike until the pegs or boards scrape the ground, then practice making wider turns in both directions at speeds above 15mph. Keep your head and eyes UP and look well ahead of the bike. Never look down or anyplace you don't want the bike to go. Remember, at speeds above 15mph, you're counter-steering. Push left to go left, push right to go right. In other words, if you need to turn sharper in a left turn, push harder on the left grip. It's the same to the right.

Focus on the end of the turn. Do your braking before you enter the curve then release the brakes and roll on the throttle. This will cause the bike to rise up on its suspension and give it more lean angle before any hard parts hit the tarmac. That's all there is to it. It just takes a little practice of the proper techniques. If you wait until you're in the middle of a curve on a winding road with water, sand, gravel, ice, guard rails, or even a cliff off the shoulder, it's too late to practice.

You can either rely on dumb luck to get you through a tricky situation or you can rely on skill.
The most important thing in this instance is that you were not seriously injured or even worse.

 

This was my first thought after reading what happened. Braking or down shifting in a turn.

Titan, I'm sorry you had a bad experience so early on in your motorcycling experience. Mototrcycling definitely isn't for everyone and if your gut instinct is to sell your bike and quit riding, that's what you should do. 2 years ago I was in an accident. A car pulled out in front of me. I hit the car doing about 40 - 45 mph. I dont think I even had time to hit the brakes. The bike stayed behind the car and I ended up in front of the car. I never once thought about not riding anymore.

Good luck on selling your bike. Hopefully you at least get your money back. I'm glad your injuries aren't too serious.

 

Did you ever take the MSF course?

 

wait wait wait..... did you have your motorcycle licence before you drove? i cant remember but even that will teach you something. the MSF is a great course for beginners like yourself. you kinda jumped the gun and thought you could handle it, but riding a motorcycle is WAY different than a car. there are ALOT more things you have to think about when you are riding on the road than when you are on 4 wheels!

PLEASE dont let this little incident discourage you from riding!!! take the course, start slow, and you will be rewarded with one of the best experiences of your life!!

 

I'm glad you came out okay. We just had to go to an accident last week where a guy turned in front of a 23-yr old motorcyclist doing 50 and killed him on impact.

Very good information. I'm assuming the same instance for turning with cars holds the same principal with bikes IE: you can only use friction for braking or turning, but not at the same time? Any more tips?

 

Sure, what would you like to know about?

 

You can use some rear brake in a turn if you need to to scrub off some speed but if you grab the front brake, you will get a massive weight transfer to the front and as the forks dip, it will throw you right out.

Most new bikers try to keep the bike too upright in turns as they don't trust leaning over for fear they will fall over or grab at the front brake.

Sorry the bike didn't work out Titan but I'm still trying to work out if you had any training before riding?
There's no way I'd consider letting someone out on a 750cc bike without doing a course.

 

I'd also second guess the 4 wheeler. If its jsut going to be an automatic 4X4...you might be ok.

I ended up selling my Yamama R1 when i got married, b/c i knew it was jsut a matter of time before something was going to happen. So i took up 4 wheelin. Got a raptor 700...set it all up for XC racing...and raced. then i was out one wekend with friends...had a beadlock failure on the rear wheel going 55 down a fire road. I ended up rag dolling for at least 50 yards. ended up being helivac'ed...and still cant look at pictures my wife took of me in the trama unit 2 years later. i find tinkering on the f150 is jsut good enough for me now

Heal up!

 

One thing you did not add, this is bike setup dependent.

My GL1500 and My ZG-1000, no problem.
A Cruiser, I can only say, from previous ownership, a XLS or FXS-B not an issue.
Same for my ZX-9R & RZ350 don't even think about it.

The additional thing I will add, sag was correctly set for the bike type for my usage. If someone weighing 165# tried it on any of my bikes, I could not say the results would be the same. We are talking more than a bit of weight delta from that person to me. I suspect the rear is going to be way too high for them at the start, and out of wack with the front to rear ratio.

You make note of something that might work, but the might depends on what the rider has been taught and practices.
Some riders ( the Sunday warrior for 9 days/ yr ), the might be dancing around on the saddle too much to even try scrubbing speed like this in a turn.
I have seen people like this, owned a bike for 5 years, and I have never seen someone move around so much in a turn.
Don't upset the suspension, hold the line and look through the turn. It is not a line dance, it is a curve.

Something that should never be tried by novice riders is trail braking.
Works great as long as you were taught correctly, and practiced it in a controlled environment.
Trail braking is not a Google university class you should take.

 

Well, I am going get get back on it the next time I can. Still fairly sure I am going to sell it though.

Seen a lot of people out today, made me want to be out riding.

Not really sure what caused me to lay it down. Anyway, no I have never ridden before.
I took my permit test and went out and started riding.
I was out around a hour before I laid it down.
I am gonna have someone ride it for me to a nearby empty parking lot and try to learn there.

I have had a few people call on it, but the clerks office messed the title transfer up so it will be three more weeks before I get the title back instead of this week.

I did have someone offer me older trans-am with 120K on it, even trade. Shame I didn't have the title it was a nice car. Older guy owned it too, one owner.

 

You had a great plan at the start of the thread, and for some reason tossed it in the trash bin and opted take a bike out for a ride and see what you could do.

Instead of trying DIY and having someone try to show you how to ride ( and show you their bad habits ) why not wait for the MSF class you are registered for ?

 

i agree.

you need to be taught how to ride if you have no prior experience.

 

^^^What these guys said^^^

You just can't go out on a big bike and expect to muddle through it.

Some years ago over here in Europe, the route to getting a MC license was changed into a 3 part test.

1. You have to do CBT (Competency Based Training)

This is somewhat similar to the MSF course and takes place off road, usually over one day (more if you've never ridden before) and will be done on a 125cc machine.
When the examiner feels that you are competent to go out on the road, you will go on an accompanied 2 hour ride.

Successful completion allows you to ride on the road unaccompanied but only on a 125cc machine.

After that there are 2 options. If you are under 21 (24 from next year), you can take a Motorcycle Test on the road which if passed allows to to ride any bike but the power must be limited to 33bhp.
After 2 years, your licence is upgraded to any bike.

If you are over 21, you can go straight to Direct Access where you learn on a full powered bike.
You can either do this on an "as when" basis or on a 5/6 day inclusive course.

The test is split into 2 parts, Mod 1 & Mod 2.

Mod 1 is again taken off road.
You have to perform a series of low & high speed manouvers including, riding though a slalom of cones, doing a figure of 8 between cones, U turn, riding at walking pace, corner at speed, controlled stop, emergency stop and hazard avoidance (swerve at speed).

If you pass this, you then do a test on the road.
This is a 40 minute test where you are followed by an examiner and he gives you directions where to go though a radio.
The test will encompass all and any road conditions in your local area but you will be going through towns, traffic lights, turns, traffic circles, hill starts etc.
10 minutes of the test if just where they ask you to follow traffic signs (like follow the signs to the City Center).
You are allowed a certain amount of minor mistakes but of you make a serious safety error like not making an observation, turning without a signal, holding up traffic, breaking speed limits, causing another vehicle to take avoiding action, you will fail.

So, that's way tougher but it has reduced the accident rates massively over here because riders are now properly trained, not just on how to pass a test but on how to ride safely.