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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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Diy Question

I am having to rebuild the roof of my metal garden shed which caved in last winter. I have put treated lumber posts in the corners of the shed & drilled through the outside of the shed into the lumber & put screws in. I then used simpson strong ties and put in a number of cross members (front to back & end to end). I want to put a roof on that slopes from front to back & cover it with shingles. My question is how do I know what angle to cut on the posts for the roof. The shed is 86 inches deep, its not anything that I have done before so any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Agent47
I am having to rebuild the roof of my metal garden shed which caved in last winter. I have put treated lumber posts in the corners of the shed & drilled through the outside of the shed into the lumber & put screws in. I then used simpson strong ties and put in a number of cross members (front to back & end to end). I want to put a roof on that slopes from front to back & cover it with shingles. My question is how do I know what angle to cut on the posts for the roof. The shed is 86 inches deep, its not anything that I have done before so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I don't fully understand.

Are you talking about something along the lines of this?





What I would do, is buy pre-made truses and then go from there.

But I guess if you have to have a one sloped roof I know how I would do it, not sure how to explain it though.

Does this help any?
http://www.shedking.net/How_to_build_a_shed_roof.html
 

Last edited by Titan357; Jun 15, 2011 at 04:02 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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Go to any of the big box stores and buy a Swansons Speed Square. It comes with directions on how to cut the angles you are asking about.
http://zo-d.com/stuff/how-do-i/how-t...ng-square.html
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Agent47
My question is how do I know what angle to cut on the posts for the roof.
What is your climate like? Lots of rain and snow, you will want a steeper pitch.

IMO, since you are going through alot of trouble to make it look good, you should consider matching the pitch of your house.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Last edited by Agent47; Jun 15, 2011 at 05:57 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 05:58 PM
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& what its gonna look like finished!!!
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 06:01 PM
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Hopefully the pics will make it clearer what I am doing. The shed is at the end of our yard so matching the pitch is not required. We get quite a bit of snow & rain but the meatal roof (which was not flat) lasted about 7 yrs.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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The picture that Titan posted is what i would like the roof to be like.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
10-12 degrees of angle would work well. simply hold a 2x4 up at the roof area get the angle you want by eye and mark with pencil and cut...
 
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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If you are using shingles, then the pitch should be no flatter than 3:12. That would be 3 inches of rise (up and down measurement) for every 12 inches of run (distance across). And the shingles should have about 5 inches of exposure (the part that you see when it's done). Anything less in pitch and you can get wind blown water comming through. Anything more for exposure and the shingles will have a tendency to curl up on the ends and be more suseptible (sp.)to wind damage.

The speed square is an excellent call! The little book that comes with it should nurse you through what you ane doing. Also the square is marked in both Pitch and Degrees.

I cut roofs and stairs for a living, so if you have any questions just post them up. I'll be glad to help.

Oh yea, dont forget to put roofing felt down before the shingles.

Good luck.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 04:14 AM
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Thanks for the help guys now if u could just get it to stop raining!!! I think I understand what u are all saying (but its early!!!)I will have to see if I can get a speed square.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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You wont get a 3:12 out of that, 86" deep would be just over 7'.. that's a 21" slope from front to back. Judging by your pics, the front posts are not tall enough to compensate for that, so you would have to cut the back down. You can get away with a 2:12, a 14" difference... but still doesn't look like theres room for that without taller front posts or shorten the rear of the shed. If it were me, I would frame the top out and stick with the metal, doesn't need as much pitch and should last longer with less maintenance.
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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From: south western NYS Latitude: 42.34 N, Longitude: 78.46 W
metal is the way to go!!!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 10:58 PM
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Just dawned on me, I doubt you'll be happy with adding the wood framing to make the roof. You have no foundation under it. Something besides dirt has to be under it to carry the weight of the roof system. One of the criteria is that has to be stable. Dirt ain't gonna work. I think you've already done more to this shed than you should have. You might just be a candidate for a Tough Shed even though I don't care for them. Or you can start building a floor system to sit what you have down to it, then build a roof system. You can pony wall the front for the roof pitch but you'll have to come up with a siding of some kind to work with the metal. By the time you get thru jerry rigging it, you could build a decent shed.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 04:11 AM
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The shed actually sits on a concrete base thats about 7 inches thick.
 
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