Need help with RV Refer.
#1
05-31-2011, 06:00 PM
Need help with RV Refer.
I feel bad for asking for help, since I work with R-717 on a regular basis, well really it seems to run on its own at work with minor issues.
On AC operation, cooler will chill to 40-45 rather well. Soon as I flip over to LP, I lose it. goes to room temp (freezer goes from 10 to room temp). I checked the flame, though it does not sound to have the same amount of pressure behind it compared to a similar unit in my brothers trailer, the flame appears correct according to a manual for a norcold LP unit.
I filled the tank.
I'm not dropping out below 12v.
I do not have a gauge to test for 1/2psig / 14inWC.
On AC operation, cooler will chill to 40-45 rather well. Soon as I flip over to LP, I lose it. goes to room temp (freezer goes from 10 to room temp). I checked the flame, though it does not sound to have the same amount of pressure behind it compared to a similar unit in my brothers trailer, the flame appears correct according to a manual for a norcold LP unit.
I filled the tank.
I'm not dropping out below 12v.
I do not have a gauge to test for 1/2psig / 14inWC.
#2
05-31-2011, 07:02 PM
As far as I know, the flame heats the same part of the system that the electric element does, just a little lower on that vertical stack.
Is your fridge a Dometic? Was it part of the recall that's been out for the past couple of years? If so, did you have the recall 'fix' applied?
The reason I ask is that I've 'heard' reports that the fix for the issue (the tube can crack from heat fatigue spilling it's contents onto the LP flame (if it's lit) and can cause a fire..) causes the LP part of the cooling to be a lot less efficient... I don't know all the details to this, just that's what I've heard on the issue.
I cool my fridge down by first using the LP to get it cold. Then I switch to electric for the rest of the time I'm plugged in. I leave it on "AUTO", so that when I do disconnect, it goes right back to LP for the trip.
My fridge stays colder on gas.
You might look to make sure the entire stack is clear to the roof. It needs to work like a chimney for the unit to function properly.. (it would be the same while on electric too, but you gotta start somewhere). Might try cleaning out the tube where the gas mixes with the air.. It's been known to get little critters in there and they like to build nests!
Post up some more info on the unit and there might be more info out there.
Mitch
Is your fridge a Dometic? Was it part of the recall that's been out for the past couple of years? If so, did you have the recall 'fix' applied?
The reason I ask is that I've 'heard' reports that the fix for the issue (the tube can crack from heat fatigue spilling it's contents onto the LP flame (if it's lit) and can cause a fire..) causes the LP part of the cooling to be a lot less efficient... I don't know all the details to this, just that's what I've heard on the issue.
I cool my fridge down by first using the LP to get it cold. Then I switch to electric for the rest of the time I'm plugged in. I leave it on "AUTO", so that when I do disconnect, it goes right back to LP for the trip.
My fridge stays colder on gas.
You might look to make sure the entire stack is clear to the roof. It needs to work like a chimney for the unit to function properly.. (it would be the same while on electric too, but you gotta start somewhere). Might try cleaning out the tube where the gas mixes with the air.. It's been known to get little critters in there and they like to build nests!
Post up some more info on the unit and there might be more info out there.
Mitch
Last edited by MitchF150; 05-31-2011 at 07:05 PM.
#3
05-31-2011, 08:03 PM
#4
06-01-2011, 12:27 PM
