What do you know about Power Inverters
#1
What do you know about Power Inverters
I'm thinking of getting one just to have, just in case I may need power for my laptop when im in the truck as well as maybe bringing the xbox 360 along on a long trip. My passengers would be able to connect it to the Alpine PKG-RSE2 that I installed. What should I look for or watch out for. So far this is what I found
http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/PI100BB.aspx
http://www.blackanddecker.com/power-tools/PI100BB.aspx
Last edited by pmason718; 12-14-2010 at 08:20 PM.
#3
What size inverter should I buy?
We carry many different sizes, and several brands of power inverters. See our Inverters Page for specifications on each of our models.
Short Answer: The size you choose depends on the watts (or amps) of what you want to run (find the power consumption by referring to the specification plate on the appliance or tool). We recommend you buy a larger model than you think you'll need (at least 10% to 20% more than your largest load).
Example: You want to power a computer with a 17" monitor, some lights,
and a radio.
Computer: 300 Watts
2 - 60 Watt lights: 120 Watts
Radio: 10 Watts
Total Needed: 430 Watts
For this application, you would minimally need a 500 W inverter, and should give some thought to a larger one, as there will likely be a time when you wish you'd bought a bigger model ... in this example, you might decide you'd like to run a fan while you compute, or let the kids watch TV.
Longer Answer: Determine Continuous Load and Starting (Peak) Load: You need to determine how much power your tool or appliance (or combination of them that you would use at the same time) requires to start up (starting load), and also the continued running requirements (continuous load).
What is meant by the terms "continuous-2000 watts" and "peak surge-4000 watts" is that some appliances or tools, such as ones with a motor, require an initial surge of power to start up ("starting load" or "peak load"). Once started, the tool or appliance requires less power to continue to operate ("continuous load")
Helpful formulas:
To Convert AMPS to WATTS:
Multiply: AMPS X 120 (AC voltage) = WATTS
This formula yields a close approximation of the continuous load of the appliance
To Calculate approximate Startup Load:
Multiply: WATTS X 2 = Starting Load
This formula yields a close approximation of the starting load of the appliance, though some may require an even greater starting load. NOTE: Induction motors such as air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers and pumps may have a start up surge of 3 to 7 times the continuous rating.
Most often the start up load of the appliance or power tool determines whether an inverter has the capability to power it.
For example, you have a freezer with a continuous load of 4 amps, and a start up load of 12 amps:
4 amps x 120 volts = 480 watts continuous
12 amps x 120 volts = 1440 watts starting load
You would need an inverter with peak-surge rating greater than 1440 watts.
FORMULA to convert AC Watts to DC Amps:
AC Watts divided by 12 x 1.1 = DC Amps
(this is the size vehicle alternator you would need to keep up with a specific load; for example, to keep up with a continuous draw of 1000 watts, you would need a 91 amp alternator)
http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/inverter_faq.html#size
We carry many different sizes, and several brands of power inverters. See our Inverters Page for specifications on each of our models.
Short Answer: The size you choose depends on the watts (or amps) of what you want to run (find the power consumption by referring to the specification plate on the appliance or tool). We recommend you buy a larger model than you think you'll need (at least 10% to 20% more than your largest load).
Example: You want to power a computer with a 17" monitor, some lights,
and a radio.
Computer: 300 Watts
2 - 60 Watt lights: 120 Watts
Radio: 10 Watts
Total Needed: 430 Watts
For this application, you would minimally need a 500 W inverter, and should give some thought to a larger one, as there will likely be a time when you wish you'd bought a bigger model ... in this example, you might decide you'd like to run a fan while you compute, or let the kids watch TV.
Longer Answer: Determine Continuous Load and Starting (Peak) Load: You need to determine how much power your tool or appliance (or combination of them that you would use at the same time) requires to start up (starting load), and also the continued running requirements (continuous load).
What is meant by the terms "continuous-2000 watts" and "peak surge-4000 watts" is that some appliances or tools, such as ones with a motor, require an initial surge of power to start up ("starting load" or "peak load"). Once started, the tool or appliance requires less power to continue to operate ("continuous load")
Helpful formulas:
To Convert AMPS to WATTS:
Multiply: AMPS X 120 (AC voltage) = WATTS
This formula yields a close approximation of the continuous load of the appliance
To Calculate approximate Startup Load:
Multiply: WATTS X 2 = Starting Load
This formula yields a close approximation of the starting load of the appliance, though some may require an even greater starting load. NOTE: Induction motors such as air conditioners, refrigerators, freezers and pumps may have a start up surge of 3 to 7 times the continuous rating.
Most often the start up load of the appliance or power tool determines whether an inverter has the capability to power it.
For example, you have a freezer with a continuous load of 4 amps, and a start up load of 12 amps:
4 amps x 120 volts = 480 watts continuous
12 amps x 120 volts = 1440 watts starting load
You would need an inverter with peak-surge rating greater than 1440 watts.
FORMULA to convert AC Watts to DC Amps:
AC Watts divided by 12 x 1.1 = DC Amps
(this is the size vehicle alternator you would need to keep up with a specific load; for example, to keep up with a continuous draw of 1000 watts, you would need a 91 amp alternator)
http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/inverter_faq.html#size
#5
Just make sure you get one that monitors your voltage and cuts off when it drops so low (I think like 11.5 or 12)
I wired mine through a circuirt breaker under the hood. If I need it, I pop the hood hit the button and I've got power. I have periods where I use it a bunch then not at all. The one I got at Pepboys (I believe 800 if I remember right) Hasn't failed me, but won't run my circular saw. I had to get some extra cable and wired it in underneath my passenger seat.
I wired mine through a circuirt breaker under the hood. If I need it, I pop the hood hit the button and I've got power. I have periods where I use it a bunch then not at all. The one I got at Pepboys (I believe 800 if I remember right) Hasn't failed me, but won't run my circular saw. I had to get some extra cable and wired it in underneath my passenger seat.
#7
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#8
I don't know much about power inverters, but I wouldn't run an Xbox 360 in a moving vehicle. Any movement of the console at all while it is in use will instantly ruin any disc that is in the console. I found this out the hard way. I moved mine sideways while a game was running and it left a giant ring around the disc and made it unreadable.
#9
I don't know much about power inverters, but I wouldn't run an Xbox 360 in a moving vehicle. Any movement of the console at all while it is in use will instantly ruin any disc that is in the console. I found this out the hard way. I moved mine sideways while a game was running and it left a giant ring around the disc and made it unreadable.
#10
My truck has a couple of extra 12v outlets that came from the factory. I am not sure of the size amps of the fuse but I bought a power converter at Wally World and have run our laptop without issue. The power converter has a on/off switch and I make sure it is off or the laptop is unplugged when I start the vehicle to avoid any surge.
#11
100 watts may be borderline. Look at your laptop's power brick and see what it's rated for. It may say the maximum output in watts. If not, it should have the DC voltage and amps, just multiply them to get watts. The one I have here for a Dell Inspiron 1525 says 65 watts, but it has onboard video, it's not a high end laptop with discrete graphics.
Anything that uses USB to run or charge is only 1/2 watt - insignificant.
I have an old IBM Thinkpad that I use for a GPS in my truck. It's rated at 55 watts. I don't have an inverter - I picked up a universal DC to DC converter from Radio Shack a few years ago off the clearance rack that has a voltage dial and a bunch of tips to go directly into laptop power jacks. I have 2 lighter sockets - it's plugged into one of them and I have a 3 way splitter off the other one. My XM radio is plugged into the splitter, and I've also charged my phone and camera while driving with it (both USB). I've yet to pop the fuse - and I just looked it up, it's 20 amps. Remember that the OBD2 socket is also on that fuse.
Anything that uses USB to run or charge is only 1/2 watt - insignificant.
I have an old IBM Thinkpad that I use for a GPS in my truck. It's rated at 55 watts. I don't have an inverter - I picked up a universal DC to DC converter from Radio Shack a few years ago off the clearance rack that has a voltage dial and a bunch of tips to go directly into laptop power jacks. I have 2 lighter sockets - it's plugged into one of them and I have a 3 way splitter off the other one. My XM radio is plugged into the splitter, and I've also charged my phone and camera while driving with it (both USB). I've yet to pop the fuse - and I just looked it up, it's 20 amps. Remember that the OBD2 socket is also on that fuse.
#12
Don't get a Black and Decker, they are junk. I had the 400W hard wired in my work truck, only lasted a week with me only plugging my laptop into it.
I took it back and bought the 750W and I hate it. I take about 5 attempts to get my laptop plugged in without getting a red light. Never plugged in anything other than laptops, and it's not my laptop's power supply, it does the same thing with my other laptop and my trainee's laptop.
I took it back and bought the 750W and I hate it. I take about 5 attempts to get my laptop plugged in without getting a red light. Never plugged in anything other than laptops, and it's not my laptop's power supply, it does the same thing with my other laptop and my trainee's laptop.