And I'm not sure why. P0106 is MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem. I've replaced the sensor 3 times now (good thing it's under warranty), and cleaned the passage way that the tube sits in with a long stiff wire. Car still runs drives and idles great. No obvious vacuum leaks. Hoses coming off the intake look good. Wires going to the sensor look good. Any ideas? Car is a 1997 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 with 260,500 miles. I just took it on a 200 mile road trip today after replacing the sensor last night. Cleared the codes with my code reader. The light popped on maybe 40 miles into my drive.

 

Register it in Rolla so you don't have to get emissions inspections.

 

My registration is good for another 18 months (at least, I think it's more like 20), so that's not the issue. And by then, I hope to be in a different car... :o

 

Why not just drive the truck? Less to manage.

 

I cut and pasted this from a repair forum.

A P0106 could be caused by:

Bad MAP sensor
Water/dirt intrusion affecting MAP sensor connector
Intermittent open in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Intermittent short in the reference, ground, or signal wire for the MAP sensor
Ground problem due to corrosion causing intermittent signal problem
A break in the flexible air intake duct between the MAF and the intake manifold
Bad PCM (do not assume the PCM is bad until you've exhausted all other possibilities)

 

I think I can answer that for him - 28 mpg on $2.49 gas vs. 16 mpg on $2.89 diesel fuel.......

 

Ding ding ding! We have a winner. $40 a week for gas (if that) is a lot better than $70-80 for the truck. Plus, work reimburses me for mileage if I drive the car to a job site, so that's even more savings. The $30 a month in insurance for my $350 car is easily paid for in gas savings.



Dirty Dave, I saw that same website as you. There is no tube going from the MAP to the intake, the sensor is mounted directly to the intake, so that's not the issue. The sensor is brand new, so dirt won't be affecting it nor do I think it is bad (much less 3 in a row). I'm going to have to dig out my Haynes manual and see if it tells me how to test the wiring... Good thing it's only 97* with a heat index of 110* today. I cleared the code last night, and it hasn't come on yet today, but I've only driven 35 miles today.

 

Yeah, I'm guessing its probably a minor wiring issue/weak connection that triggers the code, but does not affect how the car runs.

That could be a real nightmare to track down. Good luck!

 

Sounds good... wish my life allowed a car.

 

I spent $350 on my car and drove it for over a year before I had to spend more than $50 on it in repairs...

 

That's pretty good value. If I remember, I'll ask the former chevy mechanics at work tomorrow. There should be 2 or 3 of them working.

 

Ok, put a note in my lunch box. That'll give me 3 chances to remember.

 

Thanks for the help. It didn't throw the code today, and I put about 80 miles on it.

 

I vote for a corroded connection-Chebies are good for that.

I have a 95 POS-10 blazer and have put in like 6 of 7 spider injector units, they work on such a low signal voltage that a bad connector will play he** with them. Check all the wiring for chaffing and un -plug the connectors and clean them real good. Just a little tarnish will give you greif.
That's my $0.02

 

What did you use to clean the connector with? The pins are down in the plastic.