Dishwasher Installation

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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:26 PM
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Dishwasher Installation

I'm pretty handy around the house but have never hooked up/disconnected a dishwasher.

I found a great deal on a new one but, want to dodge the installation costs ($100'ish) if it is practical.

Doesn't seem like there's much to it... anyone done this? Should I worry at all?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockpick
I'm pretty handy around the house but have never hooked up/disconnected a dishwasher.

I found a great deal on a new one but, want to dodge the installation costs ($100'ish) if it is practical.

Doesn't seem like there's much to it... anyone done this? Should I worry at all?
Cake. Done several.

Make sure you have all the fittings for the washer side and the drain stuff etc, and ensure it's dead-level.

Install a local water shutoff valve - you'll thank yerself later, lol.

Separate 15A fused/breakered feed also highly recommended.

Check fer an install manual online - here's one - they are purty similar: http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/man...77_series.html

Oh - and be sure to turn off the water supply


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Last edited by MGDfan; Apr 17, 2010 at 03:38 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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^^^That pretty much covers it. Piece of cake.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:41 PM
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Thanks, guys. I kind of figured it'd be CAKE but, I was just a bit standoffish about it. We have a 'contractor special' in our house that sounds like it's going to take orbit when it's running. We really need something that's more quiet and does a better job considering that we're doing 4+ loads per week.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:49 PM
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I've done a couple too, Brad. As the others say, it's really very easy.

I agree on the local water shutoff valve if you don't already have one and I'd recommend a braided stainless steel hose for the supply, instead of the normal "rubber" one that comes with the unit.

There are new shutoff valves that are the "quarter-turn" ball valve kind. Those are great anytime you have to replace a sink or toilet valve too.

- Jack
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JackandJanet
I've done a couple too, Brad. As the others say, it's really very easy.

I agree on the local water shutoff valve if you don't already have one and I'd recommend a braided stainless steel hose for the supply, instead of the normal "rubber" one that comes with the unit.

There are new shutoff valves that are the "quarter-turn" ball valve kind. Those are great anytime you have to replace a sink or toilet valve too.

- Jack
^^ X2 .. great advice, Sir Jack.

MGD v5.0
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:02 PM
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^ what they said. If you're replacing an existing one, it's a snap. They haven't changed in the past 20 years, 'cept get quieter, Water in, water out- dedicated power line. Drop the breaker, shut off the water, pop a beer. (do yourself a favor, get a good stainless steel braided supply line.) Remove old unit. Install new lines, hook up electric, drain hose, anchor it down, pop a beer. Clean up, impress the misses, pop a beer. Done!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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Beer seems to be a critical component.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockpick
We really need something that's more quiet and does a better job considering that we're doing 4+ loads per week.
4+ a week, thats all. In my house we do an average of 9 loads a week. Thats why I went out and spent almost a grand on a bosch dishwasher, quietest I've ever heard. You can stand right next to it and not even know its running.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Ehh... maybe we run more than 4. I probably don't have the full scope of what we actually do since I'm not normally 'managing' that department of the household. LOL! I do, however, have a 2 (almost 3) year old that certainly produces her fair share of dishes.

We may be closer to 8... *shrugs*...

I'm scoping one in the $800 realm but, as a guy that does a significant amount of work for GE, it'll probably be from them... Made in the USA (in Building #3 at Appliance Park, Louisville)....
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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This might be too basic but nobody said anything about the "tip-out" screws under the counter. Pop the door open and there will be 2 of em going straight up, and they are a must when it goes back in. Also depending on your floor you might have to lower the levelers to get it out. Those are the only issues I had with my first one.
Piece of cake like said earlier.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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Thanks, jgger... I appreciate that input. I have noticed that it's secured in with the two screws that you mentioned... I think it'll slide out as there's a tad of room between the top of the unit and the counter....
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:31 PM
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Let me know if you need any help. I would be glad to stop by and help. I will be in your area all weekend.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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Let me know if you need any help. I would be glad to stop by and help. I will be in your area all weekend.

Don't fall for that--- I think he might be after your beer!!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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LOL! Thanks for the offer, Blang. Unfortunately, it's going to have to be delivered first (it's currently sitting in a warehouse in Alabama).
 
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