1996 F150, 4X4, I-6 (4.9L), almost 70,000 miles.
Teal, with matching hard Tonneau cover. regular cab, nice wheels/tires. normal comfort things. 5spd.
$10,495.

What i need a truck for.
1) Mustangs don't do so hot in the snow.
2) Already have 30K on the 99 GT.
3) Start new job down near DC on Monday
4) Need a vehicle to Trailer the Stang to the Track, (just in case)
5) Do manly things with truck.
6) i guess that covers everthing

Questions
1) It will need a Tow Pckg, how much$$$? need to tow at least 6000#.
2) I heard Autos are better for towing, but are 5spd still okay?

my first vehicle was an 87 F150. I-6.

we never towed anything with it though. I killed it December, 23 1992. 1 month after my dad paid it off. I thought he was going to kill me. I learned how to drive stick that night on my white 90 2.3 LX vert

Anyway thanks!!!


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99 GT Laser Red Tinted Clearcoat
King Cobra Clutch
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
Hoosier Dirt Track DOTs
K&N Air Filter
Poor boy's ram air
13.67@101.22 1.96 60'
285 RWTQ & 238 RWHP
BFG Comp TAs,
245|45|17sF/275|40|17sR
For sale:
March Ram Air
March U.D. Pulleys

 

Nothing that you said raises any eyebrow here.

Sounds normal as rain in Michigan.

Try out the 4WD on some dirt road or field and listen for any music that you don't want forever.

The main reason that automatics are used for towing is the startability afforded by the torque converter. If you're not an animal, can walk and chew gum at the same time, and don't normally need to start on a grade, then the manual will probably outlast any automatic.

4x4's usually have primary drive ratios (rear ends) that are acceptable at worst, ideal at best, for towing; and 4x4's are, by definition, beefy -- so you're probably ok with the towing (you may have a HD cooling package without having the Towing Package).

As for price -- you're the judge -- and you can probably learn more about the truck by talking with the last owner than anything we have to offer here.

That I6 is (was) a fine engine with a long reputation for being bullet-proof.

Oh - try out 4Low and do some lock-to-lock steering at low speed to uncover any percussion instruments in that band that shouldn't be there.

Check in with your pix and comments.

Good luck,

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Y2K™ Jim

Toreador Red, Keyless XLT SC SB 5.4L E4x4 4wDisc/ABS, 3.73LS, Skid, HD 7700# Towing, LT-245's on Chrome, Tube-Steps, Captain's, 6CD, Tonneau, named: "Nick"

 

cool man thanks. I'm going to have my dad come with me to look at it again (he's a truck driver) I'm 24 but still like to have my dad along. He has a nice 99 F250 Turbo Diesel, ARH arh Arh

After I pay it off he might want to total it though HAHA!

 

You might also want to change the gear oil in tranny/diffs/transfer case to a good synthetic oil. 6000# is alot of weight, 5 speed is still going to get plenty hot. Synthetic will take the heat. Don't be surprised if you need a clutch soon too.

Check edmunds.com and msn.carpoint.com for used car and truck prices. they are usually very close to market prices.

 

okay, cool. my car weighs 3400#s I'm giving my self room for a really heavy trailer, and I won't always be towing the car, maybe once every couple months, and in the summer 4-5 times.

 

6000 pounds is quite a bit for that 4.9l to tow, keep that in mind. If you are going to be towing, a V8 will always come in handy for towing, etc.

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Fast46Triton ®

1999 Fast46triton Edition® Ford F150 XLT Supercab, Shortbed, 4x2, 4 wheel disc brakes/4 wheel Anti-Lock Brakes, Cloth Seats, Amazon green, 16" All season tires, Soft Tonneau Cover, CD Player, 4.6 liter Triton V8, 3:55 ls, towing package, 4 speed auto, K&N Airfilter
0-60 time of 8.2 seconds!
Email me at fast46triton@yahoo.com

 

Well...not necessarily.

Keep in mind this is an inline 6 as opposed to a V6. This engine was well known for its durability and strength. I'm not sure of its exact figures for towing and torque but you're sure to find it if you do a search on the web. Great choice! The only thing I would worry about is towing with the straight stick.

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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Lund X-Terminator Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page

 

The weakest link you have in the drivetrain is the manual tranny. I would inquire at a tranny shop about what type it is. The engine will handle the weight, the tranny may not take it too well. Although I used to pull that much weight, at least, with my old 87 Ranger 5spd. I had no problems with it. If you handle the clutch and shift smart you may be ok. I would ask around anyway to be sure. Make sure you buy what you need!

 

Learn how to double clutch.

When towing a load, there's nothing better for a manual transmission than to learn how to double clutch and to match the rpms to the gear and speed.

 

Dennis,

Could you explain double clutching? Ive heard the term used but not how to do it. Thanks!

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The Truck: 1997 Black F-150 Flareside. Regular Cab ORP and Towing Package
The Mods: K&N Filter, Eurolid Hard Tonneau, Profile Windstream Side Deflectors and Lund X-Terminator Bug Deflector.
The Site:
Triton's 4.6 Liter Web Page

 

I'll take a crack at it. Between shifts when you normally let of the gas and push in the clutch to shift, pull the shifter in to neutral, let the clutch out while giving it another quick shot of gas, push the clutch back in, put in in gear and acclerate as usual. This is the way I did it and it does make the shifts smoother while taking some load off the engine. Truck drivers do this too. AS dennis said, it matches the rpms of the engine and tranny and makes the engines work more efficient. I hope that is right. If not, well I guess I am a dumbA$$ that has been doing it wrong for the past ten years.

 

Just food for thought here. These specs are from my '95 owners guide, so they should be close...

Trailer Weight Range 4x4 Manual I6 Reg cab
Axle Ratio Weight
3.08 2100 lbs
3.31 2800 lbs
3.55 3500 lbs

Same truck/motor with automatic tranny

3.08 4600 lbs
3.55 5600 lbs

....and just for comparison the 5.0 V8
manual 3.55 3500 lbs
auto 3.31 or 3.55 7100 lbs

I know you mentioned that you are adding a "fudge factor" for towing. You might want to consider how close you are really shaving it.

 

Seacrow has it right. Basically, what you're doing when you have it in neutral and you let out the clutch (and blip the throttle if you're downshifting), you're spinning up the gears in the tranny so they mesh together easier when you shift into the next gear. By matching the rpms to gear and speed, you're saving your driveline from unnecessary strain and your clutch will last much longer.

Before they put synchronizers in the trannies, you couldn't shift into gear like you do now, whithout grinding the gears. Synchronizers spin up the gears as you shift to the next gear.

Farm boys know how to double clutch. You gotta if you want to learn how to drive a tractor and you don't want to crawl all the way back to the barn. Not sure about more modern tractors, but 30 years ago, farm tractors didn't have synchronizers and the only way you could shift them into the next gear while moving was to double clutch. Not an easy feat for a kid. I had to stand up to put enough weight on the clutch.

I've seen Grand Prix drivers who could double clutch incredibly fast. It's amazing to watch how fast their feet work too, especially when slowing for a curve. Feet on clutch, brake, and gas all at the same time.

btw, if you can shift your tranny without the clutch, you've learned how to match the rpms to the gear and speed you're driving. This skill comes in real handy when your clutch fails to disengage.