I could really use some help on this one...Our 92 Mazda 626, 116,000 miles, with the 2.2L engine starts and runs..but after a short period of time....quits. I am quite sure it is an electrical short somewhere. The car has also died going down the road on several occassions. Also, twice..after it had quit in the driveway..it actually turned over a partial revolution with the key still in the RUN position.

When the key is in the RUN (not start) position..the Tach jumps 50-100 rpm..like a power surge..and this is on battery power only.

I have replaced the following:
1) Spark plugs (Bosch Platinum - TWICE)
2) Wires - (returned first set under warranty for a second set)
3) Cap and rotor
4) Coil
5) Fuel Filter
6) Air Filter
7) Throttle position sensor
8) Ignition switch on steering column
9) Battery is about a year old and terminals were cleaned and polished
10) I wrapped most of the electrical wires in the ignition system
11) NEW BATTERY (**added 1/15) Free exchange
12) NEW battery terminals (**added 1/15)

Everything else on the car is still factory.

This one really has me...and I would GREATLY appreciate anyones opinion before I am forced to tow it to a mechanic...who could virtually say anything. Up until 3 weeks ago..it was running perfectly. The problem came on slowly and seems to have become worse. Again, it starts and runs..various durations..then dies.

THANK YOU FOR ANY IDEAS!!!!

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99


[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 01-12-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 01-15-2000).]

 

I think it is the ignition switch itself. The fact that it turns over in the run position makes it suspect. Also, many Jap cars use "fusible links" in the main power distribution box under the hood. They are usually 10-12 gage wire with terminals on either end. The part in the middle of the wire will melt and begin to separate, just as a fuse does. Usually when this happens all power accessories will die.

From the problems you describe, I would go with the ignition switch first.

 

I'm sorry...I meant to post that I bought a new ignition switch from Mazda (electrical portion) which I installed on the steering column. No luck.

 

Dustoff...Have you checked the ground circuit for a good connection on both the engine and the frame? Both points should have a solid ground connection, check by removing the bolt or nut which secures the ground terminal and sanding or wirebrushing the area of connection. I have also seen batteries which develop an internal break on the power bus which runs to the + or - terminals. As the battery is used, the heat which develops causes the bus to separate and break connection. Try to borrow a battery and hook it up to eliminate this as a possibility. Mazda makes a good car, please let us know if you get it fixed. j.b.

 

Duh! I did not see number 8 part in your first post, ignition switch in column. Check the main power distribution box for any signs of a bad terminal, circuit breaker, or relay. I had an 83 Supra that did the same thing that ended up being one of those damn things. It was the main power circuit breaker heating up and disconnecting, as I described in my first post. After I spent hundreds of dollars trying to figure it out I went to the junkyard to get those parts, the guy let me have them for free. Also check the grounds as jb mentioned. Battery cables rot from the inside out and it is usually the negative cable that goes first. It has to be some sort of power distribution or grounding problem.

My (now ex ) girlfriend had a 93 626, it was a pretty decent little car but it had a lot of AC problems.

 

seacrow...
nah..you were 100% correct..I went back after your post and changed it! Very sorry and thanks for your input!! I agree..the 626 is a good car.

j.b. ... I will do everything you suggested...and I will post the results. I agree..Mazda's are very good cars. THANKS!!!!

I always do my own mechanical work..but this one has me stumped. Electrical problems can bite sometimes!!

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 

Mazda had better be a good car, after all, it's practically owned by Ford!

 

Dustoff,

My friend was having a similar problem with a 97 Dodge van, it ended up being the battery. For some reason it did not have enough continuity/static charge to give the computer enough voltage to work properly. We thought for sure it was the computer since the electrical accessories were goin berzerk. It would just die and run rough about half the time etc.

Have the battery tested

 

Seacrow...

I will do that today....funny thing is..I was in Wal Mart the other day waiting in the return line..and happened to notice a couple automotive batteries that had been returned (exchanged) and they were the exact same brand. hmmmm....

j.b. ..

I romoved the engine grounding wire..cleaned it..the screw(s) and all points of contact...with no improvement. It was slightly corroded..so I was confident it would help. I am going to check the battery cables shortly...

Keep those ideas coming..$20.00 to the person who posts the winning fix!! (cheaper than taking in to the shop!) hahaha

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99

 

Seacrow...
I took the battery back and was able to exchange it for *free* under warranty. I also replaced the battery terminals.

NO LUCK. Thanks for the idea(s) though!

I also went to the Mazda dealer and spoke to them..they said it sounded like one of the problems listed below.

The 92 Mazda is known to have significant problems with:

1. Bypass Air Control Valve (part is $565.00)
2. Igniter (part is $226.25).

The car was running...I took it out and had been driving for about 10 miles..went to turn a corner..and it died. I tried to start it..it would turn over without problem...but would not start. I waited about 5 minutes..then it cranked...and I was able to make it home.

I am going to buy an electronic code reader ($29.95) and see what the computer says is wrong. This problem is a good one....more to follow....

 

Dustoff, not sure if this will help, but when I was in high school, I was sort of an over achiever. I ended up taking courses at the local college. One summer, I took a biology class and the professor was really into agriculture. One day, we went to an experimental farm and there was this guy trying to start a rototiller. Anyway, the prof walked up to him and told the guy something I will never forget. He said, "There's nothing that a gallon of gas, a hammer, and a match can't fix."

Did I win the $20 prize?? <snicker>

[This message has been edited by Dennis (edited 01-15-2000).]

 

Well, dustoff, I have had a couple of dozen Jap cars that I used to buy and fix and resell. I know for sure that 99% of the time an igniter(ignition coil) is either good or bad not in between.

How long has it been since the fuel filter has been replaced. If never it may be the submerged in-tank fuel pump. I would also guess a fuel regulator. Most of the Jap car engine control parts last forever. ?The most frequent failure is the MAF sensor to the best of my knowledge. Maybe O2 sensor as well.

I am wondering why the thing turned itself over after the key was released though. You may have had two problems and fixed one already.
check these:
Fuel pump, fuel filter
Mass Air Flow sensor
O2 sensor
fuel regulator

Also look for a sensor or igniton module that is getting too hot and melting down. It is worth a shot.

 

Seacrow--
Thanks again for the ideas!

Fuel filter was replaced 4 weeks ago. Infact... All of the parts listed above are within the last 4 weeks. I was given a print out from the Mazda guys about the fuel regulator (and how to test it)..that might also be the problem.

The deal is..the 'check engine' light comes on when it quits..indicating an electrical problem. I agree..I might have had more than one problem and made some progress.

After I put the new battery in last night..it fired right up and seemed to run just fine (all day I could not get it to run..it would turn over..but not start). It was warmed up and 10 miles down the road..died. It was running like new..plenty of *power*.. all guages worked fine.

I bought a new O2 sensor...but have been unable to get the original off yet. Would a faulty O2 sensor cause the car to quit at various times?

I guess this thing has now become that 'dream car' that I always wanted to restore....

uh Dennis...sorry, that was good for only second place!! hahaha

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99


[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 01-16-2000).]

 

Dustoff,

man this is getting frustrating. 10 miles down the road and it quits? It has to be something electrical that gets hot and shuts down. I would take the thing for another drive with a spray bottle full of water. When it stalls again open the hood and spray some of the sensors and electrcal parts to cool them off. Between that and the code reader that should isolate whatever it is. Also check the catalytic converter when it stalls. If it is glowing red that may be the problem. I am now convinced that you had a few different little problems and have definitely made some progress.

I also had an 87 Ranger once that did similar stuff, after I replaced most of the sensors (O2, coolant temperature, etc.) it ended up being the aftermarket plug wires I bought causing some sort of interference to the computer. I bought Motorcraft wires and it ran like new again.

Normally O2 sensors will not cause stalling, but say that the 02 sensor wire was melted on the exhausst manifold or something, then it may.

I love a challenging problem. I am almost out of ideas though. keep me posted.

 

I just spent the past couple of hours cleaning out the Air bypass valve assembly...and lucky me..no help. It was not that dirty anyway. (at least I can assume that the $600.00 part is still good)

**When it quits..the Distributor itself is clicking (internal) and there is a clicking coming from inside the throttle body...along with a hum. Sometimes when I try to start the car, it will not fire (similar to fuel starvation) but the problem is clearly electrical...Maybe the distributor itself is messed up???

I spent most of the morning at every auto parts store in the Columbus Georgia area looking for a MAZDA code reader ....NONE! If I could get one...I am almost certain I could figure out what is wrong. I will order.

I enjoy a good challenge also...but this is crazy..especially for a Mazda 626! I am also out of ideas....this is a good one! My 86 Mazda 626 ran perfectly at 178,000 miles.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Styleside, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, class III towing package with heavy duty cooling package, overhead console, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, Pendaliner bedliner, K&N air filter, rubberized undercoating, cabin filtration system, Bugflector II, 5W-30 Mobil 1, engine build 10/4/99