Hey all, there has been quite a bit of discussion on spark plugs lately, and we've been doing quite a bit of testing. Here is what we have concluded thus far on plugs..

For a stock Gen 2 up to a slightly modified Gen 2. By slightly modified we mean no more than + 2 psi over stock, and the usual bolt on goodies like chip, filter, exhaust, etc. For this type of truck, we suggest the NGK TR6. This is a good all around plug and performs well in hot or cold, and can handle up to a 75 shot of nitrous.

For a heavier modifed Gen 2 running + 4 psi or more over stock, and trucks running 100 shot or more of nitrous, we suggest a new plug that we have been testing, that nobody has used yet. It's an NGK BR7EF. This is a non projector style plug, which means the electrode does not stick out of the main case. We have been running this plug in our low 11 second test truck, with 14 psi and 150 shot of nitrous and it has worked flawlessly. I do not suggest this plug for an everyday truck, but it's fine for street driving a few days a week.

Some people use what's considered an NKG "TR7" or "TR8". These plugs work well but they are a NON resistor type plug, and they will cause premature failure of the coil packs. The BR7EFs we are using are the proper plug for the same application.

Some people also use the Denso Iridiums. I myself have used them. The IT20 works great on everything from a stock Gen 2, up to about + 4 psi and 100 shot of nitrous. I do NOT suggest the Densos for any truck running more than 4 psi over stock or more than 100 shot of nitrous. While the Densos have not shown a huge power increase, they DO cure high rpm misfires. I really like the way our test truck ran with them, but they weren't up to the task for our current power level.

I do NOT suggest running the stock plugs (or any Platinums for that matter), or the Splitfires. Even in stock trucks, both have a high failure rate.

As for the TR5s, they are the replacement for the stock plug. They work fine, but the TR6s work great too, and not many people leave thier trucks bone stock.

PSP also now stocks the TR6s, the BR7s and the Denso Iridiums. We will be adding them to our on line web site in the next few days for convienent ordering.

If anyone has any questions, please ask .

 

However...how about a 4psi enhanced daily driver?

TR5 or TR6? and recomended gap

Also, have your thoughts changed on the Autolite 103's?

Thanks,

Bob

 

You said the new plugs are good for highly modified trucks, but not for everyday use,

So, where do I go.

I am running the 4lb lower pulley which I am told shows most people about 14psi.

I have your air kit, plus fast air kit now (not installed), shift kit, traction bars yada yada yada

i am planning on the stall pretty soon as you know at a minimum.

what plug do you suggest

 

lol, bob,

ya beat me too it!

 

Speedy, I knew I forgot one, LOL. I did test the 103s in the past. I didn't care for them. There was a noticable change in idle quality (poor), throttle response, and they did not do well under 100 shot of nitrous. I was not impressed at all with them, which is odd because I have always liked Autolite plugs for other applications.

I do not suggest the TR5s for anything other than stock. They are too hot for increased boost. For a truck running a 4lb pulley, I suggest the Densos or the BR7s. If the truck is actually driven every day, and does not see much WOT duty, the TR6s will hold up. But I'd swap the BR7s in for the track. I thought the BR7s might foul under daily use, but I've left them in my truck since Cecil and they seem fine so far. Time will tell that one, but I'd rather change some fouled plugs than change some burned valves.

 

Thanks for the tip sal, I'll be getting me a set of those new NGK BR7EF's from you. What gap would you suggest for my truck. 2lb upper pulley, 2lb lower pulley, and a 50 to 75 shot of juice! you know my truck

 

Arr, forgot the gap. I like to run .040 for gap, no matter what the application on the Gen 2s. General rule for power adder vehicles is about .035, but that's with a conventional ignition system. With COP (coil on plug) ignition, the spark is hotter and stronger, so it can jump a larger gap. And the larger the gap, the higher the spark voltage will be. But if you go higher than .040 with extra boost or nitrous, the spark will have a tough time jumping the gap, so you need to keep it at .040.

 

What are some prices on these plugs? How offen do most of you change your plugs?

 

sal, when you say switched for the track, i am still kinda lost

once summer hits, i will be driving my truck 7 days a week, and racing up to 4 days a week here locally, i go 40 minutes each way to work, there is no way i am going to be able to change the plugs to and from the track that often

where do i go lol,

 

Old news on the BR7EF plugs. Iwas using them almost a year ago. https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=29468

 

Sal, do you have a site where I can order those plugs?

 

Sal

Trouble is around here you are much better off with the Stock plugs if you are going to have trouble than with any aftermarket plug.... If the electrode burns off a stock plug and eats a valve you are much more liekly to get some help in fixing it assuming you are still under warranty... ( please dont anyone quote the Moss magnuson BS - In 2 years I have NEVER seen anyone get a voided warranty, unvoided - Under any circumstances )

Only trouble I ever had with plugs was when I ran Splitfires for a short time and melted 2 of them.... I have run the stockers since then and recently ran a 12.5 with 2# pulley so I am pretty happy with them....

Doug

 

Given that there have been reports of plugs somehow bolwing out of heads and messing up the heads as it happens...

What torque are you guys using?

How do you get a torque wrench in the tight areas?

Are you using anti-sieze on the threads or any other such thing?

Andy

 

Ok, the plugs are added to the site, for your online ordering convienence . Please note that they are sold in sets of 8. So if you want 8 plugs, your quantity should be 1.

Beef, it's probably not what you want to hear, but with your current set up and how much you'll be racing the truck, you WILL be changing plugs now and then. I strongly suggest you run the BR7s, but I can't guarantee they won't foul over time being driven daily. So far ours are holding up fine.

Automan, sorry, I didn't catch that post. Maybe more of us should have paid better attention because nobody else is using that plug.

Andy, I don't know what other people are doing, but I myself use my sense of feel instead of a torque wrench. With only 4 threads holding the plugs in, I wouldn't trust any torque wrench, you never know when they are going to fail . As for the anti sieze, Ford says not to use it and I agree. With all the problems of plugs working loose, anti sieze will only make it easier for the plugs to loosen up. Since the plugs are steel and the head is aluminum, it's not likely to have a plug badly frozen in the head. If you do, it was probably installed bad.

 

I hope the Densos match up well with my mods. That's what I just ordered.

Sal, when are the Truck-Traks going to be up on your site for us to order online?