Here we go. Happy owner of a 2004 5.4 Triton F-150 4x4 with 200K miles, new trans. Threw me a cam phaser code bout a month ago and I realized if its the timing chains its really not worth the time and money to fix. Dead in Water.

Reset the system, code came back. Put a can of sea foam in crankcase cause I had 900 miles left on the every 3K oil changes. After a couple days it cleared up, reset code never showed up again. But I listed this problem under the V8 area and someone pointed out that it will be back. Cam phaser retarded bank 1. Edge/K&N/Duals

So now this week a friend took this cool 2000 F-250 4x4 xlt with 150K miles on the truck and come up with a even trade. His for mine. It has cloth seats but about the same room (Both SC) His has to be plugged in every night to start. I will pull code in morning and be back. My thinking is this. My ford is about 75% done where the 150K on the 250 means it is just broke in, say 25% used. I just want a truck that will last the long haul and not make me worry everytime I start it. Ford, but which one? Fuel is .25 more a gallon and both get 13/17, or mine does and his should. He's a lawyer and took it in as payment for services. Its only been driven 5 times this year.

Both book out about the same on the high end book. 7800.00 but you go on flea bay and the 150 is bringing more money.

 

the 7.3 hands down

 

i'd go for the diesel. your f150 even being a "newer" just dont hold its value like diesels. +200K miles on your f150? its a gas motor, its over the hill and on its way down... c'mon, your getting a tougher more capable truck with less miles for zero money! SEVEN.THREE!!!

 

And mine threw the dreaded Cam phaser code a month ago and stayed that way for a week. Only big thing with his is you have to plug it in every night to start. Crank Pos Sensor or glow plugs. My 5.4 sounds like a 7.3 anyway with the phasers making noise.

 

7.3 powerstroke!

 

could the having to be plugged in everynight to start a bad thing on the 7.3? Any ideals without knowing the code?

 

possibly weak batteries...


BUT then again without the code, we won't know for sure

 

not a bad trade but dont kid yourself on the truck being 25% used. maybe the motor is but from the sounds of it the 7.3 needs some work. the rest of the truck (ball joints, axles, etc) is not 25% used at all.

 

Good point and with the 36/15.5/20 Micky T's on a wide aftermarket wheel with good tread it did not drive like my 150 at all. With that being said it did not dart around either but I only rode it around the block. I drive all day in my 150 often and will know if I want it after a short road trip.

 

code was glowplug 6 not firing P0676 and 1316 and 1670 being old. Reset but the next morning I got the 0676. They tell me around 150 to do the one glow plug. 150K on the speedo. First 10 years in CA and 2 owners. Then Tn and me

 

If your f150 is a leather supercrew 4x4 it will hold it's value in the long run. Sounds like both trucks need work, could be major work, or it might not be. You won't know till you tear it apart and see. Sounds like both owners are trying to pull one on each other, since neither want to fix their vehicles. If your truck is a screw lariat 4x4 5.4 and is running with no problems, it will sell for more, as you noticed on ebay. especially if you can supply the paperwork and receipt on the new trans. The age and cloth interior will be working against the f250. 2000 was a good year for the 7.3, forged rods. Then you have the drivetrain of the f250 that is better, 4r100, full float rear axle, solid front d50 axle, etc. It could be a better setup, like 02+ SD recieved a d60 front axle, and 05+ recieved a coil spring front suspension. But that's not comparing the two trucks fairly.

We need pics of both trucks.

IMO sell your truck out right, then bank some of the cash and buy his f250. A 04+ lariat 4x4 5.4 Screw is an in demand used vehicle. A cloth interior truck not so much, even if it has a more heavy duty drivetrain.

 

I have a '97 7.3 Van w/ 175k. Things I have done in the last 12 months are: fuel pump, oil cooler, water pump, glow plug relay (got a stancor gpr). Things I have planned for next few months are reman fuel injectors, glow plugs and UVCH (under valve cover harness).

Most important thing to know is how frequently oil was changed. Get a used oil analysis if oil is fairly old (3000k +) to see what it shows. The Turbo should also be checked for 'play' and to see if the impeller blades look 'dusted.' If you are doing the glow plugs might as well do the UVCH and rebuild the fuel bowl with viton o-rings. I think the 99+ models had problems with fuel tank delamination - this symptom may/will show as little flakes caught on the fuel filter, but the only way to really know is look in the tank. I would still go for the 7.3, especially if you can DIY. Plenty of good diesel forums around.

 

Red flag on needing the block heater to start in warm weather. You really need it checked out by a live scanner to make sure you ain't walking into an injector job. While prices have dropped out on 7.3L parts lately, still ain't cheap.

Adrianspeeder

 

I doubt it's an injector job, although since it is summer, it shouldn't *NEED* glowplugs to start. Probably just needs a glow plug relay. It could also be weak batteries.

But, like Adrian said, somebody who has a live scanner will be able to check it better and run an injector contribution test.

 

fire my truck up in 30* weather with no GP cycling... anytime its a hardstart in warm weather its injectors...

quick tip, if it hard starts, once started, let it idle for 5 seconds, than mash the pedal tot he floor, see if it studders at any RPM range... If there is a studder than a straight shot to redline, its an injector issue 99% of the time