We run 0w30 full synthetic in the 6.0s up here. Helps the injectors out alot.

 

That makes me cold just to hear you say that! I run JD 10W30 in the V10.

 

really? whats the API rating of that stuff i didnt think JD would even make a gasoline oil.

 

I have heard that running a dino 10w30 in a v10 will increase cylinder pressure, making the spark plus shoot out of the head more frequently. We have 2 v10's at work, one with 203k miles on it, motorcraft syn blend 5w20 in it since new, never shot a plug, never had a problem. Guy i used to work for ran 10w30 in his and had 4 plus shoot out of the head, dunno if theres a direct correlation but it sure seems like it

 

I don't know much about API ratings but it says "Exceeds the requirement of API service classification
SM." Is that what you are talking about?

I found this pic of a bottle of the stuff. I took this a few years ago, and it says "SL" But they now say "SM" I guess they found a way t

 

It says SM now because the SL is obsolete oil. The SM replaced SL which replaced SJ. The SM is backwards compatible oil, so as long as the V10 needs SL/SJ (depends on the year of the engine) rated oil you're fine.



That oil though is no good to run in a PSD, so hopefully you're not using it in that. The 7.3L PSD needs CG-4/CF-4 oil, and the 6.0L and 6.4L need CI-4 oil. I think the CI-4 is backwards compatible to the CG/CF oils, but I'm not completely sure.



On a side note JD doesn't bottle that oil themselves, they buy it just like pretty much every other major manufacturer. Most equipment companies only need the standard spec engine oil, its the hydraulic oils that they get specially bottled for the. I know Hytran is a proprietary mix, like I'm sure JD's hyd oil is. Since they sell some of their smaller utility tractors and lawn/garden equipment as well as older gas engines they do sell gas rated oil under their brand. I know if it was me I wouldn't pay the premium price for it, just like I wouldn't do it for Case/New Holland oil as well (aside from the Hyd. oils), but thats a whole other can of worms.

 

I know the "can" well, I assure you! We went through that junk with CNH's hyd oil. They told us it wouldn't shift right if we didn't use their stuff. (MX 285 and TG 285. I think its a load of crap, cause we put the cheapest hydraulic oil we can find in our equipment and it works fine. Everything leaks anyway, so buying the expensive stuff would not be financially prudent.

The JD oil was relatively cheap for a while, but I think it has recently gone up in price. I just hate to change brands, cause our vehicles like the JD oil purty good.

I don't know if the JD oil is any better than any other brand, but they claim it is. They offer an extended drain interval on their tractors if you use their oil. The standard service interval is 100 hours, but if you use their oil, they say you can extend it to 350 hours and not void the warranty. That's diesel oil though....

 

Its been my experience that Hytran seems to work better than some of the off brand cheap stuff. I work on the prototype combines, so I spend more time elbow deep in Hytran than I care to think about. I will admit that there are better oils out there, like Bartran.


All that being said I do still run Hytran in my Cub Cadet mower (149 hydro) and it does leak a little bit, but I don't run through enough of it to stop using it. I really should fix the leak sometime. I've also talked with alot of the cub cadet guys that have had problems on other oils, but again completely different pieces of equipment. As long as whatever oil you're using meets the specs for that piece of equipment then you should be fine.

 

That's awesome! Are you in R&D or do you just repair them when the R&D guys break em?

 

Both

 

OP: Just a thought... what was the ambient temperature when you did this? If you were driving a diesel and it was below 70degrees, you could have had, or still have a failed water pump. Our 7.3L had a failed water pump and will operate just fine in the 'a-l' of 'normal' rather than at the 'o-r' where she normally would in anything up to 70 deg ambient, and 1700rpm or below. I knew she was having an overheating issue, and he coolant kept getting low. We replaced the radiator, coolant leak fixed, but still almost overheating, and she would get to above the 'L' if we were going up a hill.

Once we replaced the water pump she was all better. Dunno if that helps, but thought i'd share.

-Vycan