Big truck engines use an additive in the cooling system to prevent liner erosion from the combustion process. Cummins calls it Diesel Cooling Additive (DCA). I have seen liners with erosion started after only 2000 miles with plain water, so I know how critical this is. I have heard that the 7.3 engine requires an additive of this type to prevent erosion of the cylinder walls, but I have not been able to get a definitive answer from my dealer. The local parts store sells something to prevent cavatation but it doesn't sound like it addresses what I'm concerned about.

Can anyone here tell me what to use? Or, where I can find the information I require? I'm about to change the radiator on my 89 7.3 and will be using all new coolant. I don't want coolant in the combustion area of the engine!

Flagship

 

Yes, the PSD does use an SCA (supplemental coolant addative) as Ford calls it. I usually don't go through Ford for it since they simply buy it from Navistar who buys it from Fleetgaurd (Cummins) while getting marked up the whole way along. You are looking for Fleetguard DCA60L which is a DCA4 addative.


Now remember you can't just dump this stuff in, and you can't just treat it once and forget about it. You need to get the test strips and find out what your level of DCA is and then add until you have the correct level. You must also test every so often for the correct level as well or you will damage the block. Since you have one of the early NA 7.3Ls this is especailly critical for you as they were the most prone to damage from improper DCA levels. Also keep in mind that your test strips only have a set shelf life and will expire. I need to get my system flushed, but I'm going to gold coolant which does not require the use of the DCA.

 

Thank you, thank you!

I assume I can get the test strips from Cummins? What about this Gold coolant? Is that the same yellow looking stuff I have in my 04 150? Or is it the so called long like coolant I see like the stuff from Shell?

As I said before, I've seen just how fast an engine can be destroyed by this, and I don't want to have it happen to this one.

Flagship

 

You should be able to get the test strips from Cummins. I mean the ones I have are Fleetgaurd, which is a subsidiary of Cummins. They actually just changed their name from Fleetgaurd to Cummins Filtration Systems. Thats where Navistar buys all their stuff from.


The gold coolant I believe is the same as whats in your F150. Its a long life coolant, and I think even the Zerex gold is compatible. I actually need to do this myself, but more than likely I'll take it to a shop to have the flush done due to available time.

 

Funny, I just overhauled a Cummins N14 due to liner pitting. Looks like the guy never checked DCA because the coolant filter looked damn near original! Heavy coolant in oil. Rods, mains, oil cooler, turbo, etc... I work for Cummins. I also just serviced a 6.0 liter powerstroke F350. Not only are we a Cummins distributor, we also service alot of fleet accounts; Detroits, Cats, you name it, thus the powerstroke in our shop. Anyhow, NOT BASHING the powerstroke, I just cannot believe how small and flimsy the canister type oil filter and fuel filter is compared to our 5.9's and 6.7's. Wow!
Once again I'm not Bashing.

 

Seems like it would be nice if Ford put a water filter on their diesel trucks. Wonder if I could plumb in a Cummins water filter? Then I could just change it once a year (Maybe 10k miles for me) and I'd be good. Any thoughts?

Flagship

 

It couldn't hurt. Most coolant filters have a small amount of DCA in them so it helps to replenish the system. Don't think of it as much as a filter ( it does filter ), but more of a small, stable amount of DCA to maintain your level until the next change or DCA check. This is of course if you are changing them regularly and as powerstroke 73 stated, It is imperative to check the DCA content often with test strips if your engine is prone to liner pitting. Our 11 liter engines are not as prone to it as our 14 liter and higher are. Our 5.9's ( dodge pickups ) do not use liners so there is no coolant filter or need for DCA. Our 8.3 liters have liners, however, they no longer require a coolant filter due to the extremely rare cases of those liners ever pitting. I'm sure powerstroke73 could advise you better on installing a coolant filter for your rig. He's the expert on powerstrokes, my expertise is with Cummins. Take care!

 

By the way powerstroke techs, how in the hell do you guys work on those things?!

Geez Louise those things are crammed in there. How bad are the warranty flat rate times? Are you guys lifting the cab for head gaskets or major engine work?

 

No, don't get a precharged filter. That will constantly be releasing DCA into the system and will over charge it. You're better off getting an uncharged filter and maintaining the levels manually. This way you have complete control over how much is there.

The cavitation this helps prevent is not due soley to the liner, as the PSD is not a lined engine. Its just a straight block like the 5.9L Cummins. As I recall it has to do with the high compression ratios that diesels run which causes the problem.


Ford did not put a coolant filter on the PSD, but the Navistar version ran one. Its very simple to run one as a bypass filter which you want instead of a full flow. Napa actually has a coolant filter and base kit which most people run on their PSDs including me. There is a port on the side of the water pump which is used for an aux coolant temp probe. You plumb that into the inlet side of the filter and then "T" the outlet into the degas bottle line. The first time you put it on you'll only get a couple thousand miles on the filter unless you've had a coolant flush done. What happens is the filter catches all the sand used during media blasting when the block is cast. The filter will actually plug quickly and will need to be changed. You can tell when its plugged by touching it. If its warm like the radiator hoses then coolant is flowing, if its cold then no fluid is flowing and the filter must be changed. You'll probably have to change it a couple of times in the first 5-10k. After that you can go to 25k changes. You'd be suprised how much sand is in the engine, and what it can do to it.


The 7.3L is fairly open to work on in the engine bay. The 6.0L is a nightmare to deal with. There is little to no room under the hood, and to do head gaskets its easier for the tech to lift the cab off the frame than to pull the engine. Though if you want to see REALLY cramped, try working on a 6.0L with a Vmac under hood compressor. Now THATS a nightmare, and we've got 2 of them.

 

Well, I definitely won't ever b***h about our 5.9/6.7 space in the newer Dodges after hearing and seeing your lack of space. I feel for you guys!!!

 

Update:

I went to Cummins and was again reminded why I always speced them for big rigs. Customer service is truly outstanding! The parts room handed me a test strip kit and the service department treated me to a complete, and very thorough explanation of the whys and what happens, especially with overcharging.

They were out of water filter bases and ordered one for me. So, I'll deal with them from now on I guess.

Powerstroke73, I guess I can find the unused port on the water pump, but I'm not sure about the degas bottle line you mention. Would you explain in a little more detail? Be sure to type real slowly, OK?

Flagship

 

Glad to here you were treated well! We are currently going through a massive Customer Satisfaction training program. It's not just for the service managers, or service writers but for everyone from the highest executive, to the tech's, parts personnel, accounting, etc... It's basically looking at things through " The Lense of the Customer " and doing everything we can to obtain and keep customer loyalty. The factory is very serious about this program!

Take care!

 

I would hold off on installing the coolant filter if you're planning on doing a flush soon. Flush the truck, then install the filter, otherwise you'll just be wasting a filter.

For a link on getting Gold coolant go here

Answers as to why you need to filter your coolant

Shows the install locations of both the inflow and outflow ports

I was mistaken on the port being on the water pump, its actually on the thermostat housing. I also wouldn't recommend mounting the pump down in the wheel well. I kind of like the location shown on Dieselsite's page. The only down side is that it can make a mess when changing. You could also mount it down on the inner frame rail. Steel braided lines aren't needed for this, and if you don't mount it up high like shown on Dieselsite's page then you'll want to get some shut off valves for the filter head as it will start draining coolant when you change the filter.