Here's the problem. The power lock on the front, driver's side door won't operate with the FOB or either door switch. Suspecting the actuator I pulled the door apart and, sure enough, it wasn't moving. I ordered a new one and just tried it today. It, too, doesn't work. I took 2 wires from the battery to the old actuator and it still works. So I cut some insulation off of the 2 wires running to the actuator and checked for voltage. None. When the relays are all in the normal position, all of the wires should be grounded. So, I checked for ground continuity on each actuator wire and I got one positive and 1 open. The open is the red/orange wire, which according to my Haynes manual, runs to the Driver Unlock Relay. I've searched these forums, trying to locate the relays. I tried to find the relays under the big oval on the top of the dash. I find 1 box with 1 relay, then I removed the metal bar and found another box with 2 relays. Removing them all does nothing to affect the door locks. There is only 1 "Power Door Lock Relay" listed in the operating manual. Contacting my buddy at a Ford Parts dept, he sent me a schematic showing that the actuator wires run straight to the Security Control Module. I'm assuming this is the RAP that I see buried way under the dash behind the steering column.

Is this correct? Are the relays internal to the RAP? Do I have to replace the RAP to fix my problem? My only other option is a broken wire, which would be a ton of work to hunt down and fix, especially if the break is buried deep in the dash. Of course, replacing the RAP would be a chore and a half as well.

-Dustin

 

I would test the wires just before they go into the door. My best thought of a place for them to break is where they are bent all the time, that is the area between the door and the body.

 

I have what may be a similar problem. My driver's door actuator does not work with the key fob or entry code. All of the other actuators work with both. Even the driver's side unlock button has the same result, except that i now noticed if the driver's door is open then the actuator works. This confirms that the actuator is good, and leads me to believe there is a problem with the factory security system. Maybe this additional info can help you or someone else figure out our problem.
Bob

 

I can't help with the actuator but when I changed the RAP it wasn't too bad... its just 2 plugs and two bolts... I almost got stuck trying to get old one out but wasn't too bad... but when my RAP died... my FOB and key pad didn't work... I would check your wires first unless u can borrow a extra rap and test it out...

 

It ended up being a broken wire right at the point where the wires all go into the body. It was a PITA to fix, as I had to pry back the rubber loom (which is electrical taped to the wires), pull out the 2 broken ends, solder them back together (with a short piece of wire), and apply heat-shrink tubing over the joints. It works like a charm now.

 

congrats...lol glad you got it fixed and it wasn't anything serious

 

I will definately have to check the wires at that location especially since it makes a difference with the position of the door.