Murphys law: The coldest day of the year of course and just paid off the truck last month: wife calls from work to say window won't roll up (have to swipe a pass to get to work). The motor spins, but the window is completely loose, can move it up/down by hand. And it's too heavy to stay up by itself. I'm sure is something simple like off track, but how "simple" is that these days? The last window I fixed was a '66 Mustang I'd have to know all the secrect holding spots to try to get the door panel off, and doing it at about 10F with a windcill in the -'s and now sleeting!
So I call a dealer for a "ballpark". He says sounds like a window regulator $63 and labor $102. Does this sound right?

TIA
Bryan
2000 EB

 

I guess it doesn't matter if the glass is half empty or half full, either is bad in a snowstorm.

Those figures sound about right for electric window repair.

I had a drivers electric window that would only go down about one and a half inches.
Very frustrating! Especially at the Drive-thrus!

Box - "Sir? That's all you want is french fries? Nothing else?"

Me to Box - "Yes Damnit! Just french Fries! And i want them one at a time! Understand?"

 

Had the same problem. I just removed the door panel and ciliconed the window back into the track. Happened during the winter when it was froze so it just got ripped off track

 

I suspect that's what happened to mine, but not willing to work a few hours in the single digits to relize it is a part that needs to be replaced. Guess that what happens as you get older. I used to be attached at the hip to my 'stang, but I was younger then, and poorer

On a side note, driving my father-in-laws 02 screw to "fix" said window at work, I noticed after I started it {a tad sluggish [4-6 cranks vs normal 1-2] but hey it was 15} all the needled peged full right, then full left, then normal. Is this a bad sign? Wouldn't think it's the battery allready as I just replaced mine this year (00) just because it was 5 years old, not because it gave any hints it was near it's end. His has the 4.6, and less miles only like 25k. Is it just the cold, or should we inspect more?

 

That is usually an indication of a battery on its way out.

 

Finally got it back! after a "45-60min" job I got my X back 24hrs later!
Luckily I have ESP w/Rental car so after 3-4hrs waiting I got fed up and said give me something to drive. Got a 05 F-150ext cab

Saw the invoice, priced out at about $300 parts and labor. At one point the service manager said they had to order glass because of some metal clips on the bottom that attach to the motor were bent, and they only way to get new ones was to order a new glass. Souds kinda fishy, but now that I know it's covered I don't mind. After getting my invoice I notice it says "tested 3 times, regulator bouind up, broke glass" Now I don't know if that means the metal clips, or litteraly the glass. Sure glad I didn't try to do this on my own in the cold!
If the dealer broke the glass, and my warrenty's ended, would I have to pay for it? I'm assuming they would somehow put the blame on me, or say it was broke to begin with. If so would I have to pay knowing the actual glass was not broke when I turned my C over to them?

Just some future planning.

 

the thing I learned is to get ALL REPLACED PARTS BACK to make sure they actually did what they said they did.

As for the rest, go to your local d1 college and talk to a law professor. He KNOWS what you can do.

Your situation is a legality issue saying " is it even worth it to fight it"

 

hello, i have the same problem. i am trying to fix my moyhers window,but i cant figure out what is keeping the door panel from sliding up. you removed yours,could you give me much needed advice? thanks