Replace manifold or get headers?
Replace manifold or get headers?
Alright, it looks like I will be replacing my exhaust manifolds in the near future. To replace them with Ford exhaust manifolds, it will run about $450 for the parts. New headers are around $400 (JBAs).
My questions:
1) Has anybody installed their own headers or manifolds with no more than hand tools, a jack and jackstands? How did it go?
2) Are the headers going to be as reliable as the stock manifolds?
3) What option would you guys choose (headers/stock manifolds)?
I drive a '95 f150 with 97k miles. I do not race it or anything. Will be keeping it until the end of time.
thanks
scott
My questions:
1) Has anybody installed their own headers or manifolds with no more than hand tools, a jack and jackstands? How did it go?
2) Are the headers going to be as reliable as the stock manifolds?
3) What option would you guys choose (headers/stock manifolds)?
I drive a '95 f150 with 97k miles. I do not race it or anything. Will be keeping it until the end of time.
thanks
scott
I haven't installed headers YET. If you do you will notice a slight improvement in performance, similar to putting on a good larger diameter cat-back exhaust system. Whatever brand you choose make sure it's thick-wall stainless and that each cylinder's pipe is equal length to the others. Don't bother with un-equal length headers, barely more efficient than OEM manifolds. I've also heard that 1 1/2 inch v.s. 1 5/8inch diameter tubes will keep the torque up. Going too large is not an advantage with the fairly mild state of tune of our engines.
Equal-length headers, y-pipe, 3inch exhaust will do a lot of good. Slap a K&N air filter on it too.
The optional "ceramic" coating on headers seems like a great idea for long-term reliability (no rust-through) and better heat dissipation.
Good luck.
Equal-length headers, y-pipe, 3inch exhaust will do a lot of good. Slap a K&N air filter on it too.
The optional "ceramic" coating on headers seems like a great idea for long-term reliability (no rust-through) and better heat dissipation.
Good luck.
p_ferlow,
I put headers on my 2001 S-Crew. It can be done with simple hand tools with out a problem. If your inner fenderwells come out, take them out. Also I took my tires off as well and made the removal of the manifolds and the installation of the headers so much easier. Nothing to get in the way when you do that. Also, get a good hi-temp loc-tight when you put the studs in. I completed mine in 4 hours not including the clean up. With the price of the headers verses the stock manofolds, I would go with the headers with out a thought.
If you plan on doing future mods, the headers will compliment them nicely....take care....
I put headers on my 2001 S-Crew. It can be done with simple hand tools with out a problem. If your inner fenderwells come out, take them out. Also I took my tires off as well and made the removal of the manifolds and the installation of the headers so much easier. Nothing to get in the way when you do that. Also, get a good hi-temp loc-tight when you put the studs in. I completed mine in 4 hours not including the clean up. With the price of the headers verses the stock manofolds, I would go with the headers with out a thought.
If you plan on doing future mods, the headers will compliment them nicely....take care....
I agree, get the headers but conside getting them coated with Silver Ceramic or Jet-Hot to keep under-hood temps down.
There are a bunch of posts on header installs, do a search. Yes, I agree with pcm747x, take the fender wells out and wheels off, definitely. No, you don't need special tools either but it took me a lot longer than 4 hours. More like 8 with breaks and so-forth. It went fine but a few swear-words were blurted out at the opportune time. The biggest pain was getting the header bolts behind the pipes on the top of the flange threaded into the head. Not hard, just tedius and a major time-waster in the process. It was worth doing it myself though...
Good luck.
There are a bunch of posts on header installs, do a search. Yes, I agree with pcm747x, take the fender wells out and wheels off, definitely. No, you don't need special tools either but it took me a lot longer than 4 hours. More like 8 with breaks and so-forth. It went fine but a few swear-words were blurted out at the opportune time. The biggest pain was getting the header bolts behind the pipes on the top of the flange threaded into the head. Not hard, just tedius and a major time-waster in the process. It was worth doing it myself though...
Good luck.
JBA Headers
Hope I''m not beating a dead dog.
Where did you buy the lock-tight header studs?
How specific do you need to be to order them.
Has anyone thought of buying copper header gaskets?
TruckPerformance has them for $449. F150 Online Store has them for $559. Is there an advantage to buying them through F150?
Is there a difference between the Ceramic Coating offered through JBA or sending them off to Jet Hot Coating? Is it just about pricing?
From the reply above, as I've also heard, it is better to get equal length headers and only up to 1 1/2 inch pipes. Are JBA's pipes 1 1/2 and aren't they unequal length?
Any extra info is welcome.
Joel
Where did you buy the lock-tight header studs?
How specific do you need to be to order them.
Has anyone thought of buying copper header gaskets?
TruckPerformance has them for $449. F150 Online Store has them for $559. Is there an advantage to buying them through F150?
Is there a difference between the Ceramic Coating offered through JBA or sending them off to Jet Hot Coating? Is it just about pricing?
From the reply above, as I've also heard, it is better to get equal length headers and only up to 1 1/2 inch pipes. Are JBA's pipes 1 1/2 and aren't they unequal length?
Any extra info is welcome.
Joel


