Hi, All. It’s time to tackle my 02 F150 5.4 110k exhaust manifolds. Like most others in the salt belt, the bolt/nuts have rusted to the point that it’s impossible to get anything on them for removal. I’ve searched and read at least a hundred valuable posts on it, in addition to several YouTube vids and evan at 69 I think it’s something I can still do. Before I commit and begin, I have some questions that I hope some of you will be kind enough to provide input. First, the truck is completely stock and I plan to keep it that way, at least no major mods like headers.

1. Should I try to save the old manifolds or just go ahead and buy new ones before I even start the job?
2. I plan to not even attempt to unbolt the manifolds, but to use a die grinder to cut the bolt/nuts off flush with the manifolds, then just pull the manifolds off followed by unscrewing the studs. Is this feasible or is there an unforeseen problem with this?
3. Other than a set of studbolts/nuts, gasket set, manifolds, is there anything else I would need to have ready?
4. As I’ve had good service, I plan to buy from Rock Auto. They offer ATP or Dorman for the manifolds with not much difference in price. Is one any better than the other?

All input would really be appreciated. I'm not afraid of the job; I just don't want to get part way through it and get stuck.
Thanks, folks.

 

No action on here since I posted. This is probably one of those topics that has been beaten senseless, but still there are those of us duffers who are trying to save some money by doing it ourselves. I went to two mechanics and both told me "hell no". They didn't want the job which left me no other choice but to tackle it myself. I'm only doing the passenger side for now as that is the one with the busted stud and is leaking.
First, my first question above was easy. I ordered everything new from Rock Auto.
Second, after unsuccessfully trying several methods I purchased a good set of nut extractors, heated the nuts (what was left of them) cherry red, and off they came easy as pie using the extractors. Of course, a couple days of soaking in "my own" penetrating oil (50-50 ATF and Acetone) probably helped. Hardest part was access, but managed it without removing any components.
Only thing left is the exhaust pipe nuts and I'm still mulling that one over. All the parts should be here in a couple days and I should have it ready to swap out by then.
I'll post to the forum how it goes.

 

Just a followup to my last post. Almost finished. Finally got all the exhaust studs removed. Two of them required the purchase of a new tool by Titan that looks like a drill chuck. Worked great, but requires enough stud left out of the head to grab on to. Last one only had about 3/8" and wasn't enough so I had to drill it and use an easy out. It was my last ditch effort, but fortunately I was able to get it out after a lot of work and beating my hands bloody. First, I (carefully) ground the broken stud off flush with the head and used a spring loaded center punch for a drill start point. It wasn't perfectly centered, but close enough for drilling. Fortunately the stud that was broken had room for drilling--some don't. Once I got into the stud about 1/2" I used a 3/8 long drill to drill down past the non threaded part of the stud, followed by drill the rest of the way through. Using the easy out was "easy" and the remainder came right out. I finally got the new manifold and studs installed, but not tightened down yet as I was tired and walked away to finish up today. I expect a couple hours of work, but need to find the torque specs first for the manifold and exhaust pipe nuts.
I think if I was to do this over again I would give some serious thought to just removing the engine and doing it all on an engine stand. Anyone done it that way?
Last question: It seems that most manifolds break studs and leak at the on nearest the exhaust pipe. Must be some stress in that spot. ??

 

Hope This helps....

 

Thanks, my friend. That was just what I was looking for. Everything is hooked up, torqued properly, and test driven. Quiet and smooth. Love it.
Now, I need to heal up my hands.
Anyone have any recommendations for a good set of mechanics gloves?
Darrel

 

I use cheap Harbor Freight work gloves.