Compilation of info for long tube header install (OBX)
#1
07-18-2013, 11:27 PM
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Compilation of info for long tube header install (OBX)
The following post is a PM that I sent to a fellow member when he had some questions about installing long tube headers on his 04-08 5.4 F150 (that's why it's in the format that it's in).
If you have any questions, PM me and I will help to the best of my ability.
If you have any questions, PM me and I will help to the best of my ability.
#2
07-18-2013, 11:29 PM
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Sparktecmotorsports.com has 2wd and 4wd OBX kits, but the link is for 2wd. I paid $517 shipped to my door. The kit has resonators that bolt up to the collector on the headers, and cats are not offered. But the resonators look enough like cats that you might be able to pass a visual inspection with them.
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/h11449s.html
The next link is a "How to" and is extremely helpful. Only changes/notes are: the dipstick tube must be removed to fit the driver side header (isn't mentioned). The O2 sensor plugs are 18X1.5 mm (not 15X1.5 and my local parts stores didnt carry them) and can be found on SummitRacing.com as O2 sensor plugs. I would recommend getting locking header bolts, or at least getting some new factory (style) ones (like $10). The locking ones I got were Percy Vibe Lock and were almost $100 (from Jegs), not pleasant haha. Stage 8 makes some for closer to $50, but the retaining clips on them make me not recommend them because of how limited space is. And I would get some new OEM Ford gaskets from Tascaparts.com, or at least some Fel Pro ones from RockAuto.com because the OBX ones basically fell apart when I got them. The O2 extensions that are needed are BBK 1676 and can be found on either Jegs or Summit and are $55 shipped. You really only need one set of these for the front O2 sensors, unless you plan to add cats, in which case the rear O2s need to be extended as well. When you try to use the extensions, there's a little tab that needs to be sanded down in order to make it fit, but it still fits snug. You'll see what I mean when you put them on. You can try to solder extensions onto the O2s, but it is possible that they will fail/melt, so keep that in mind.
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-long...nstall-139357/
If you have any questions or anything, feel free to ask! I did a lot of research and searching for parts to accumulate everything I needed.
In order to run without catalytic converters, you'll need a programmer to turn the rear O2 sensors off. I have an SCT X3 with Tunes from 5Star. I think you should be able to have a shop weld in hi-flow cats where the resonators are, but I'm not sure. I'm going to ask a shop this week of it's possible and get a quote.
2 of the studs holding the stock manifold on are a complete b*tch to take out because there is very limited access to them. They are the top and bottom studs all the way at the front of the engine on the passenger side. Take the nuts on of them, get the manifold out, and this is a lot more space to get at them. Do NOT attempt to use a swivel extension to get at them because it will strip them when it moves around. Believe me, I had to have a shop take them out. $350 lesson learned. It's much easier to be right on them with a small socket when the manifold is out of the way.
I know this is a lot of info and I don't know if you're planning on doing this yourself or not, but it really isn't all that bad of an install. It's quite frustrating, and I can imagine troublesome if you live up north where stuff gets rusted up. But, I'm young and inexperienced and was able to do almost all of it on my own. Again, feel free to ask questions and I will be able to tell you what tools you'll need.
Make sure to have a 3/8" drive universal swivel extension for removal of the starter. A 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" drive set can be found at Harbor Freight for just a couple of bucks. I bought impact rated ones because, well, they're from Harbor Freight
This is a link for removal of the starter
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...l-starter.html
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/h11449s.html
The next link is a "How to" and is extremely helpful. Only changes/notes are: the dipstick tube must be removed to fit the driver side header (isn't mentioned). The O2 sensor plugs are 18X1.5 mm (not 15X1.5 and my local parts stores didnt carry them) and can be found on SummitRacing.com as O2 sensor plugs. I would recommend getting locking header bolts, or at least getting some new factory (style) ones (like $10). The locking ones I got were Percy Vibe Lock and were almost $100 (from Jegs), not pleasant haha. Stage 8 makes some for closer to $50, but the retaining clips on them make me not recommend them because of how limited space is. And I would get some new OEM Ford gaskets from Tascaparts.com, or at least some Fel Pro ones from RockAuto.com because the OBX ones basically fell apart when I got them. The O2 extensions that are needed are BBK 1676 and can be found on either Jegs or Summit and are $55 shipped. You really only need one set of these for the front O2 sensors, unless you plan to add cats, in which case the rear O2s need to be extended as well. When you try to use the extensions, there's a little tab that needs to be sanded down in order to make it fit, but it still fits snug. You'll see what I mean when you put them on. You can try to solder extensions onto the O2s, but it is possible that they will fail/melt, so keep that in mind.
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-long...nstall-139357/
If you have any questions or anything, feel free to ask! I did a lot of research and searching for parts to accumulate everything I needed.
In order to run without catalytic converters, you'll need a programmer to turn the rear O2 sensors off. I have an SCT X3 with Tunes from 5Star. I think you should be able to have a shop weld in hi-flow cats where the resonators are, but I'm not sure. I'm going to ask a shop this week of it's possible and get a quote.
2 of the studs holding the stock manifold on are a complete b*tch to take out because there is very limited access to them. They are the top and bottom studs all the way at the front of the engine on the passenger side. Take the nuts on of them, get the manifold out, and this is a lot more space to get at them. Do NOT attempt to use a swivel extension to get at them because it will strip them when it moves around. Believe me, I had to have a shop take them out. $350 lesson learned. It's much easier to be right on them with a small socket when the manifold is out of the way.
I know this is a lot of info and I don't know if you're planning on doing this yourself or not, but it really isn't all that bad of an install. It's quite frustrating, and I can imagine troublesome if you live up north where stuff gets rusted up. But, I'm young and inexperienced and was able to do almost all of it on my own. Again, feel free to ask questions and I will be able to tell you what tools you'll need.
Make sure to have a 3/8" drive universal swivel extension for removal of the starter. A 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" drive set can be found at Harbor Freight for just a couple of bucks. I bought impact rated ones because, well, they're from Harbor Freight
This is a link for removal of the starter
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...l-starter.html
Last edited by KMAC0694; 07-19-2013 at 12:36 AM.
#3
07-19-2013, 12:16 AM
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#4
07-19-2013, 12:27 AM
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No problem man, I figured others would like the same info, so I decided to share! I was super stoked when I ordered mine!