Last summer, I replaced my timing chains, cam phasers, guides, tensioners, passenger side exhaust manifold, shocks, struts, and repaired a broken sun roof.

This year, at 145,000 miles, my driver side manifold is leaking somewhere, and needs replaced. I'm not happy with the quality of the Dorman manifolds, so I'm thinking about installing headers. I've read some horror stories about installation difficulties, have any suggestions?

Also, it's that time that I change my rack, but I'm not looking to pick one up at Advance, just to replace it in the next year, I'll keep you posted if I find something better.

Anyone used energy suspension on there 2004 5.4 Lariat?

izzy

 

take yer time and plan for 1 day to install....take yer time

longtubes would be yer best bet....

dynatech is a very good option and well worth the money

OBX is another option and about half the cost but the clamps and hardware should be upgraded...

also look into stage 8 locking header bolts or ARP exhaust head bolts+studs

 

Hey 88! I like that you are always on this forum! I'm heading to find that set RIGHT NOW!

izzy

 

thanks...

the following are for 2wd

link>>> http://www.troyerperformance.com/scr...?idproduct=971

link>>> http://www.teamjdm.com/dynatech-f150...tted-midpipes/

this is an OBX for 4wd no cats>>>link>>> http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/h11455s.html

Stainless works 2wd+4wd>>>link>>> http://www.stainlessworks.net/produc...l-headers.html

the above links will get you into the websites so you can look+search some more....

 

Look at stainless works too. If you're near Ohio they do installs, sometimes free! Dynstech and SW hands down all day.

 

added link for the op....

 

Nothing against the performance of energy suspension components really, -except for the bright orange color. I use them under my bench grinders lol. Moog components are just as good with a sort of a Ford Blue color, -if your talking bushings that is.

I like that Dorman offers those manifold kits for these trucks. No one else does. Their kits consists of EGR nipples/fittings, flange studs and even head flange studs if you want. So what's wrong ? Are the castings bad ?

Yea, I installed my LT's at a time; -well it was before Dorman offer those kits. They just sold manifolds, that's it. My EGR fitting disintegrated (rust lol). A user from this site found another fitting for me at a salvage yard luckily. I was striking out in Michigan, they were all rusted out at the yards here lol.
Since I couldn't get one from the dealer, I thought I would have to work my way south until I found one. It's a special fitting for the 5four and needed for the headers as well, - if your keeping the EGR set up that is.

Also, I'm not sure about the 04's, but check to see if you have an exhaust hanger on the Y that attaches in line with your Transmission mount like the earlier models. The trans mount goes out then puts pressure on manifolds at the back.

 

I just did long tube pacesetters in my truck. I have 5.4 with 4x4.

The driver's side isn't too bad...I am truly glad I have a friend with small hands. Studs towards the front are hard to get to. I removed my steering shaft.

The passenger side, please, kill me. It isn't too bad to get the stocker out, I removed starter, motor mount, trans cross member, and dropped ac compressor for additional clearance which made it come out much faster that the drivers' side. Reinstall was a total pita. OMG! I needed to trim down the casting around where the bolts go into to hold the starter, as well as the metal gasket between the motor/trans. Heat shield by cab needed to be modified. Very glad I have a die grinder. Trans dip stick needed to be removed. Motor needed to be jacked up as high as I could go, and between pry bar and hammer got it in there. I did ceramic coat these at work as well, so, now the pass site looks like crap. I would like to think this was due to the pacesetter's poor fitment. But, I will never do a set of headers on another 5.4L!!!

It took me more time to do the headers than to install my blower. I also did this with 1-2 hours here and there in a 20 degree garage and was in absolutely no hurry. Do soak down your bolts with pb blaster. The studs iirc are 5.5mm, and the nuts are 1/2"/13mm.

 

I can still feel that pain, I did it twice, with two different 150's. They were both 5.4L's and 4x4's. Never jacked the engines tho. It was a PITA! It wasn't until I took the AC bracket loose that the passenger side slid right into place. Second time around, I new to do that, so it went MUCH faster.

But yea, the first time I believe I got made like a little kid and said "F-THIS"! B-itched the whole way up to the house. The dog wouldn't even get near me for awhile.

 

How did you bring the header in on the pass side? I cam from the bottom up.

 

From the bottom up both times. I had removed the starter, it didn't look like it was in the way, - neither did the AC line, removed the starter, it helped a little, but still couldn't get it to line up. Then I removed the bracket at the front of the engine that held the AC line in place and like magic the header fell right into place.

What fools you is that neither of them seemed to be in the way, but they were, just enough. So the second install, starter came out and the bracket was loosened ahead of time and the passenger side went much faster, - no problems.

 

I've re-done the 98 (same 98-03, no dif w/the 5.4L's) since. I pulled the headers and welded 3" x 2.5" HF to the collectors. As you must know, It's fricken tight w/cats.

 

BTW, I have some pics in one of my galleries. I think I have a header album ? Yea, thought so, here, -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...ader+work.html

 

IMHO,
Unless it is for racing purposes, in all reality, there are little differences in overall performance between shorties (Tri-Y), mid-length & long tube headers.....shorties actually perform excellent up to about 5500 rpm and then will have a slight drop until 6k rpm when it begins to really decline.....more than enough for street use and much better than oem manifolds. In general, the head plate should be at least 3/8" (1/2" is best), tubing should be at least 16 gauge (14 is best).....otherwise leaks and burn-though are going to be a problem as well as the longetivity of the headers.

 

Well, your better off listening to those who know exactly what the differences are with the specific MODULAR 5.4L engines. The most gains were dyno proven; one run with shorties over stock, - no gains anywhere in the power band. The shorties were RR'ed w/Dynatech Long Tubes on a 98 block w/PI heads, -diff compression ratio. The most powerful stock combo 97-03 is the 97/98 block and PI heads. The engine dyno'ed out plus 30Hp 35Trq. Shorties eliminated as they never amounted to anything anywhere in the power-band, they just have never work well for the modular engines. BTW - no such thing as Mid length headers, not for these engines anyway lol.
Bolting them up to a stock 5.4L, the gain is +20hp and +15trq cats and factory tune (http://www.dynatechheaders.com/sm_fordtruck_99_03.html). Tuning is absolutely not necessary, - read the Troyer articles as well. Stock, you also pick up 6 seconds 0-80. Here's two runs, one with the factory exhaust Y, then the other after a LT and HF install, -

See if my old vids still work, you can time it yourself, -

Before LT's, -

https://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew39...61949443175026

After LT's, (EDIT, disregard the background music/first vid, I hate that song now lol) -

https://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew39...88043316047874

https://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew39...73530710714466