New S&B CAI with scoop!!!
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: San Antonio, TX
Haha, thanks!
Yeah, I tend to agree with you. I'll send him a pic and just ask for a confirmation. Forgive my ignorance, but do you mind educating me a bit?
What does the "TF" stand for in MAF TF?
What does "A/F" stand for?
Thanks for your help!
As usual, I'll be the devil's advocate here. 
It costs nothing to ask again - include a pic of the appropriate MAF mounting region, exact intake part/model number, and get a confirm.
Sometimes these things go through a redesign that the tuner feller has not seen yet.
The other thing to remember is, a lot of these aftermarket rotomolded intakes have production tolerance variations of ~10%. This can skew the MAF TF if that variation occurs in the MAF region. (Source = VMP).
So - IMHO only - a check of the A/F's would go a long way to assure you of a dead-on MAF TF. Or at least some logging off fuel trims, etc.
Good luck!
MGD
It costs nothing to ask again - include a pic of the appropriate MAF mounting region, exact intake part/model number, and get a confirm.
Sometimes these things go through a redesign that the tuner feller has not seen yet.
The other thing to remember is, a lot of these aftermarket rotomolded intakes have production tolerance variations of ~10%. This can skew the MAF TF if that variation occurs in the MAF region. (Source = VMP).
So - IMHO only - a check of the A/F's would go a long way to assure you of a dead-on MAF TF. Or at least some logging off fuel trims, etc.
Good luck!
MGD
What does the "TF" stand for in MAF TF?
What does "A/F" stand for?
Thanks for your help!
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,390
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A/F = air/fuel ratio
TF = Transfer function. A hard-coded table in the PCM that relates MAF counts to (mass) air flow. Specific to each intake, unless said intake is specifically designed to accurately conform to the OEM MAF TF.
The fly in the ointment in general, for me, has always been this excerpt from Justin @ VMP (sorry aboot the repost, lol):
"We can tune for different cold air intakes on 05+ Mustangs and 04+ F150s. Any aftermarket intake that flows well and puts the slot-style MAF sensor into a larger less restrictive housing is going to REQUIRE a tune for the vehicle to run properly. Intakes that do not require a tune are often just as restrictive as stock and do not result in large power gains."
Hence - my belief that it is simply prudent to confirm.
MGD
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Updated the original post with some new information. Finally got my truck back from the shop yesterday. Had to reinstall the lower portion of the scoop and the bumper mounting bracket. Also was able to refill the gas tank and see what that tank came out to. According to my program I use on my phone I averaged 14.6mpg which seems a little low since 90% of that tank was spent on the highway on the road trip. The gauge in the truck says 15.5. But thats typical. I'm always a full mile higher in my truck than what my program tells me. And again this is all within the first 500 miles of me reloading my tune and resetting everything so this could all be because of the truck adapting again. I'll report back after this next tank of gas as well. Happy to have the truck back and hopefully I can avoid any stupidity while driving it!
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Wow y'all. Sorry I've let this go for so long. I've been meaning to update this thread for a while. I have a few things to report.
First off, I had to remove the scoop as I upgraded to larger aftermarket wheels and tires. I have the FX4 with a 1.5" AS level up front. This is equivalent to the 2" level. I changed to 20x9 XD Monsters with +18 offset and 295/60/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers (roughly a 34.4" tire). When turning the wheels to the right, I would scrub the scoop. If I had maybe 1" more clearance, this wouldn't have been necessary. So keep that in mind if you really want the scoop and aftermarket wheels and tires.
Since I had to remove the scoop, I decided to use the plug provided for the outlet from the airbox to the scoop. I chose this to prevent excessive engine bay air from being taken in. I also removed the "shower cap" from the filter since I really wouldn't have it exposed to possible elements anymore.
I was still very pleased with the intake. Felt like I was still getting good air flow and consistent throttle response. Unfortunately, I had a lot of changes to the truck take place at the same time. Upgraded to larger wheels and tires, reworked my tune a bit and recalibrated for the new tire diameter. My fuel economy obviously took a hit with the wheel and tire upgrade. I now average around 13.6-14 mpg each tank. I live roughly 15 miles from work so most tanks consist of about 15 minutes of highway driving with about 10 minutes of stop and go at lights and in neighborhoods. I took one road trip after all the upgrades but the diameter selection in my programmer wasn't proper so my speedo was way off. I hit around 17 mpg on that trip, but that wasn't accurate. Think I was closer to 15.5 - 16 mpg. Overall, I'm still very happy with the intake. My next experiment now that we are moving into the cooler time of year will be to remove that plug and see if there's a change in performance at all. Then the next will be to try the paper filter as opposed to the oiled filter I'm currently using.
Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to help!
First off, I had to remove the scoop as I upgraded to larger aftermarket wheels and tires. I have the FX4 with a 1.5" AS level up front. This is equivalent to the 2" level. I changed to 20x9 XD Monsters with +18 offset and 295/60/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers (roughly a 34.4" tire). When turning the wheels to the right, I would scrub the scoop. If I had maybe 1" more clearance, this wouldn't have been necessary. So keep that in mind if you really want the scoop and aftermarket wheels and tires.
Since I had to remove the scoop, I decided to use the plug provided for the outlet from the airbox to the scoop. I chose this to prevent excessive engine bay air from being taken in. I also removed the "shower cap" from the filter since I really wouldn't have it exposed to possible elements anymore.
I was still very pleased with the intake. Felt like I was still getting good air flow and consistent throttle response. Unfortunately, I had a lot of changes to the truck take place at the same time. Upgraded to larger wheels and tires, reworked my tune a bit and recalibrated for the new tire diameter. My fuel economy obviously took a hit with the wheel and tire upgrade. I now average around 13.6-14 mpg each tank. I live roughly 15 miles from work so most tanks consist of about 15 minutes of highway driving with about 10 minutes of stop and go at lights and in neighborhoods. I took one road trip after all the upgrades but the diameter selection in my programmer wasn't proper so my speedo was way off. I hit around 17 mpg on that trip, but that wasn't accurate. Think I was closer to 15.5 - 16 mpg. Overall, I'm still very happy with the intake. My next experiment now that we are moving into the cooler time of year will be to remove that plug and see if there's a change in performance at all. Then the next will be to try the paper filter as opposed to the oiled filter I'm currently using.
Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to help!
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I know I said I'd update after a few tanks of gas, but thought I'd provide a little feedback. The mileage gauge on the dash appears to be about the same as before, so nothing to note there. BUT, I did make an observation that I do like. With the plug removed (now two inlets into the air box. This inlet is the same as when the scoop is attached), when I hammer the accelerator, it howls! Really sounds great and just feels like its really got big lungs. Quite noticeable. As I said though, I'll post back after a few tanks to see if there's any difference, positive or negative, in gas mileage or any other performance notes.
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Hey Russ, that's a great write up man. I've actually got an email into S&B to see if they have this kit for the 6.2L. I'm hoping they do as I've read nothing but great things about this product. Hey quick question for ya. Do you think oversized wheels and tires would work with the down tube? I have 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers on XD Addict 20" wheels offset 5".. How close were your tires from rubbing? Thanks in advance for your response.
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engine damage
do you have any problems with a water going to the filter during a rain?
S&B says that you can damage an engine when you drive through for example deep puddle.
S&B says that you can damage an engine when you drive through for example deep puddle.
Hey everyone. This will be a longer post. I apologize for that. If you'd like to just read my thoughts and observations and skip the installation, just proceed to the end. I have a 2010 SuperCrew FX4 with the 5.4. Recently, I came into some good fortune in that Ryan from S&B Filters contacted me offering me a great opportunity. Receive one of their CAI's, install it and document the process, and report on my results. So here we are! I was very excited. Other mods that coincide with the CAI are my Borla 40349 exhaust and a 5star tuned SCT tuner. My first comment is Ryan was great to work with. He has been extremely helpful and easy to reach. Second S&B has their stuff together. I was kept informed of the whole process and a few days later (actually a day earlier than we expected), I received this (no it wasn't already open):
Everything was very well packaged. Here are the contents all laid out:
The items I received are the following:
S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - 75-5050
S&B Ram Air Scoop - AS-1007
(2) S&B Cleanable Filters - KF-1035
(1) S&B Dry Disposable Filter - KF-1035D
Filter Wrap - WF-1023
Cleaning & Oil Kit - 88-0008
You can find more info on the kit at the following site:
http://www.sbfilters.com/ford-5-4L-f...ke-kit-75-5050
*if you click on related items, you can see the other options I mentioned above.
Before I get into the install process, the one thing that really impressed me is their installation instructions. They are really very good. You get colored pictures (a rarity these days). Most are usually black and white and look like they've been recopied a thousand times, each time from the copy. But these were clear and the text was very concise and easy to understand. I only found one issue and that was with the size tool they said to use on one bolt. But I'll explain that later.
Tools needed:
You also need a Phillips Head Screwdriver. As mentioned, all these are listed on the instructions so you can get everything together and organized prior to install.
Step 1: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable (forgive me for showing a picture, but there have been times I have wanted more clarity and couldn't find the picture I was looking for. Although, if this step needs explanation, probably shouldn't proceed).
Step 2: Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body
Step 3: Disconnect the MAF Sensor by sliding the red locking pin back, press in the bottom of the harness and pull out the male connection.
Step 4: Loosen the hose clamp at the air box/intake tube connection. Remove the intake tube assembly from the truck.
Step 5: Undo the three clips holding the air box cover to the air box. Remove the air box lid and air filter from the truck.
Step 6: Using a 13mm socket, remove the rear air box mounting bolt. Then carefully remove the coolant overflow tube from the reservoir and use the mounting bolt as a temporary plug for the tube.
Step 7: Remove the other air box mounting bolt using 13mm socket. Carefully tip the air box assembly away from the fender so that you don't spill coolant.
Step 8: Remove the assembly from the truck. You will have to pull it out of the factory grommets beneath it and you will also have to remove the bolt from the rubber tube in Step 6 for it to fit through the air box assembly.
Step 9: Remove the mounting insert and rubber grommet from the OE air box assembly.
Step 10: Insert the OE rubber grommet and insert to the new S&B air box.
At this point, you have 3 options. They are all based on personal preference as well as the environment/climate in which you live. There is this additional inlet on the air box:
There is an end cap you can install if you are concerned about engine heat, you can leave it open if thats not a concern, or the method I chose, you can install the Ram Air Scoop.
Step 11: This step is based on choosing to either use the end cap or the Ram Air Scoop. I will illustrate both. Would be unnecessary otherwise. Insert the 3 Clip Nuts over the holes on the bottom opening of the S&B Air Box.
And again:
Step 11a (Using the End Cap): Insert S&B Air Box End Cap.
Step 11b (Using the Ram Air Scoop): Insert upper portion of S&B Scoop assembly.
Attach using the supplied 1/4-20 Hex Screws and Flat Washers from the inside of the Air Box using 7/16" socket or ratcheting wrench. The instructions say 5/16" but this is incorrect.
Everything was very well packaged. Here are the contents all laid out:
The items I received are the following:
S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - 75-5050
S&B Ram Air Scoop - AS-1007
(2) S&B Cleanable Filters - KF-1035
(1) S&B Dry Disposable Filter - KF-1035D
Filter Wrap - WF-1023
Cleaning & Oil Kit - 88-0008
You can find more info on the kit at the following site:
http://www.sbfilters.com/ford-5-4L-f...ke-kit-75-5050
*if you click on related items, you can see the other options I mentioned above.
Before I get into the install process, the one thing that really impressed me is their installation instructions. They are really very good. You get colored pictures (a rarity these days). Most are usually black and white and look like they've been recopied a thousand times, each time from the copy. But these were clear and the text was very concise and easy to understand. I only found one issue and that was with the size tool they said to use on one bolt. But I'll explain that later.
Tools needed:
You also need a Phillips Head Screwdriver. As mentioned, all these are listed on the instructions so you can get everything together and organized prior to install.
Step 1: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable (forgive me for showing a picture, but there have been times I have wanted more clarity and couldn't find the picture I was looking for. Although, if this step needs explanation, probably shouldn't proceed).
Step 2: Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body
Step 3: Disconnect the MAF Sensor by sliding the red locking pin back, press in the bottom of the harness and pull out the male connection.
Step 4: Loosen the hose clamp at the air box/intake tube connection. Remove the intake tube assembly from the truck.
Step 5: Undo the three clips holding the air box cover to the air box. Remove the air box lid and air filter from the truck.
Step 6: Using a 13mm socket, remove the rear air box mounting bolt. Then carefully remove the coolant overflow tube from the reservoir and use the mounting bolt as a temporary plug for the tube.
Step 7: Remove the other air box mounting bolt using 13mm socket. Carefully tip the air box assembly away from the fender so that you don't spill coolant.
Step 8: Remove the assembly from the truck. You will have to pull it out of the factory grommets beneath it and you will also have to remove the bolt from the rubber tube in Step 6 for it to fit through the air box assembly.
Step 9: Remove the mounting insert and rubber grommet from the OE air box assembly.
Step 10: Insert the OE rubber grommet and insert to the new S&B air box.
At this point, you have 3 options. They are all based on personal preference as well as the environment/climate in which you live. There is this additional inlet on the air box:
There is an end cap you can install if you are concerned about engine heat, you can leave it open if thats not a concern, or the method I chose, you can install the Ram Air Scoop.
Step 11: This step is based on choosing to either use the end cap or the Ram Air Scoop. I will illustrate both. Would be unnecessary otherwise. Insert the 3 Clip Nuts over the holes on the bottom opening of the S&B Air Box.
And again:
Step 11a (Using the End Cap): Insert S&B Air Box End Cap.
Step 11b (Using the Ram Air Scoop): Insert upper portion of S&B Scoop assembly.
Attach using the supplied 1/4-20 Hex Screws and Flat Washers from the inside of the Air Box using 7/16" socket or ratcheting wrench. The instructions say 5/16" but this is incorrect.
