New S&B CAI with scoop!!!
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From: San Antonio, TX
New S&B CAI with scoop!!!
Hey everyone. This will be a longer post. I apologize for that. If you'd like to just read my thoughts and observations and skip the installation, just proceed to the end. I have a 2010 SuperCrew FX4 with the 5.4. Recently, I came into some good fortune in that Ryan from S&B Filters contacted me offering me a great opportunity. Receive one of their CAI's, install it and document the process, and report on my results. So here we are! I was very excited. Other mods that coincide with the CAI are my Borla 40349 exhaust and a 5star tuned SCT tuner. My first comment is Ryan was great to work with. He has been extremely helpful and easy to reach. Second S&B has their stuff together. I was kept informed of the whole process and a few days later (actually a day earlier than we expected), I received this (no it wasn't already open):
Everything was very well packaged. Here are the contents all laid out:
The items I received are the following:
S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - 75-5050
S&B Ram Air Scoop - AS-1007
(2) S&B Cleanable Filters - KF-1035
(1) S&B Dry Disposable Filter - KF-1035D
Filter Wrap - WF-1023
Cleaning & Oil Kit - 88-0008
You can find more info on the kit at the following site:
http://www.sbfilters.com/ford-5-4L-f...ke-kit-75-5050
*if you click on related items, you can see the other options I mentioned above.
Before I get into the install process, the one thing that really impressed me is their installation instructions. They are really very good. You get colored pictures (a rarity these days). Most are usually black and white and look like they've been recopied a thousand times, each time from the copy. But these were clear and the text was very concise and easy to understand. I only found one issue and that was with the size tool they said to use on one bolt. But I'll explain that later.
Tools needed:
You also need a Phillips Head Screwdriver. As mentioned, all these are listed on the instructions so you can get everything together and organized prior to install.
Step 1: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable (forgive me for showing a picture, but there have been times I have wanted more clarity and couldn't find the picture I was looking for. Although, if this step needs explanation, probably shouldn't proceed).
Step 2: Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body
Step 3: Disconnect the MAF Sensor by sliding the red locking pin back, press in the bottom of the harness and pull out the male connection.
Step 4: Loosen the hose clamp at the air box/intake tube connection. Remove the intake tube assembly from the truck.
Step 5: Undo the three clips holding the air box cover to the air box. Remove the air box lid and air filter from the truck.
Step 6: Using a 13mm socket, remove the rear air box mounting bolt. Then carefully remove the coolant overflow tube from the reservoir and use the mounting bolt as a temporary plug for the tube.
Step 7: Remove the other air box mounting bolt using 13mm socket. Carefully tip the air box assembly away from the fender so that you don't spill coolant.
Step 8: Remove the assembly from the truck. You will have to pull it out of the factory grommets beneath it and you will also have to remove the bolt from the rubber tube in Step 6 for it to fit through the air box assembly.
Step 9: Remove the mounting insert and rubber grommet from the OE air box assembly.
Step 10: Insert the OE rubber grommet and insert to the new S&B air box.
At this point, you have 3 options. They are all based on personal preference as well as the environment/climate in which you live. There is this additional inlet on the air box:
There is an end cap you can install if you are concerned about engine heat, you can leave it open if thats not a concern, or the method I chose, you can install the Ram Air Scoop.
Step 11: This step is based on choosing to either use the end cap or the Ram Air Scoop. I will illustrate both. Would be unnecessary otherwise. Insert the 3 Clip Nuts over the holes on the bottom opening of the S&B Air Box.
And again:
Step 11a (Using the End Cap): Insert S&B Air Box End Cap.
Step 11b (Using the Ram Air Scoop): Insert upper portion of S&B Scoop assembly.
Attach using the supplied 1/4-20 Hex Screws and Flat Washers from the inside of the Air Box using 7/16" socket or ratcheting wrench. The instructions say 5/16" but this is incorrect.
Everything was very well packaged. Here are the contents all laid out:
The items I received are the following:
S&B Cold Air Intake Kit - 75-5050
S&B Ram Air Scoop - AS-1007
(2) S&B Cleanable Filters - KF-1035
(1) S&B Dry Disposable Filter - KF-1035D
Filter Wrap - WF-1023
Cleaning & Oil Kit - 88-0008
You can find more info on the kit at the following site:
http://www.sbfilters.com/ford-5-4L-f...ke-kit-75-5050
*if you click on related items, you can see the other options I mentioned above.
Before I get into the install process, the one thing that really impressed me is their installation instructions. They are really very good. You get colored pictures (a rarity these days). Most are usually black and white and look like they've been recopied a thousand times, each time from the copy. But these were clear and the text was very concise and easy to understand. I only found one issue and that was with the size tool they said to use on one bolt. But I'll explain that later.
Tools needed:
You also need a Phillips Head Screwdriver. As mentioned, all these are listed on the instructions so you can get everything together and organized prior to install.
Step 1: Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable (forgive me for showing a picture, but there have been times I have wanted more clarity and couldn't find the picture I was looking for. Although, if this step needs explanation, probably shouldn't proceed).
Step 2: Loosen the hose clamp at the throttle body
Step 3: Disconnect the MAF Sensor by sliding the red locking pin back, press in the bottom of the harness and pull out the male connection.
Step 4: Loosen the hose clamp at the air box/intake tube connection. Remove the intake tube assembly from the truck.
Step 5: Undo the three clips holding the air box cover to the air box. Remove the air box lid and air filter from the truck.
Step 6: Using a 13mm socket, remove the rear air box mounting bolt. Then carefully remove the coolant overflow tube from the reservoir and use the mounting bolt as a temporary plug for the tube.
Step 7: Remove the other air box mounting bolt using 13mm socket. Carefully tip the air box assembly away from the fender so that you don't spill coolant.
Step 8: Remove the assembly from the truck. You will have to pull it out of the factory grommets beneath it and you will also have to remove the bolt from the rubber tube in Step 6 for it to fit through the air box assembly.
Step 9: Remove the mounting insert and rubber grommet from the OE air box assembly.
Step 10: Insert the OE rubber grommet and insert to the new S&B air box.
At this point, you have 3 options. They are all based on personal preference as well as the environment/climate in which you live. There is this additional inlet on the air box:
There is an end cap you can install if you are concerned about engine heat, you can leave it open if thats not a concern, or the method I chose, you can install the Ram Air Scoop.
Step 11: This step is based on choosing to either use the end cap or the Ram Air Scoop. I will illustrate both. Would be unnecessary otherwise. Insert the 3 Clip Nuts over the holes on the bottom opening of the S&B Air Box.
And again:
Step 11a (Using the End Cap): Insert S&B Air Box End Cap.
Step 11b (Using the Ram Air Scoop): Insert upper portion of S&B Scoop assembly.
Attach using the supplied 1/4-20 Hex Screws and Flat Washers from the inside of the Air Box using 7/16" socket or ratcheting wrench. The instructions say 5/16" but this is incorrect.
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Now, at this point, you again have options. You can finish assembling the scoop prior to installing the kit into the truck, but I chose to complete the assembly once it was installed. The reason being you have to twist and slide the scoop down through the engine bay and there's barely room between the mount and the wheel guard. It makes it a bit tougher to put on the lower part of the assembly just because you have to do it from under the truck, but I still prefer this.
From here on, my steps will illustrate the use of the scoop. If you didn't use it, obviously all of those steps would be removed but the install process is no different just fewer overall steps.
Step 12: Apply Teflon tape (not provided) to the threads of the 90deg Hose Barb and insert the Barb into the Coolant Recovery Tank. Be sure the connection is tight.
Step 13: Place the 3 Large Fender Washers into the indents on the side of the S&B Air Box.
Funny story at this point. You notice it has shifted from day to night. Well I decided I knew better than the instructions and did a test fit of the air box with scoop to see if I could do it that way. Too lazy to take it out so I thought I could install the washers and recovery tank with the air box already in the truck. That was a mistake. Ended up dropping all 3 washers into the engine bay, only 2 made it to the ground. I was home alone, with baby napping and no intake in my truck. So I had to wait until the wife got home and then went out to get a new washer. Lesson learned. Follow instructions!
Step 14: Place the Coolant Recovery Tank on the side of the S&B Air Box and attach it using the 5/16" Hex Bolts and 5/16" Flat Washers. Also use the provided thread locker.
Step 15: Install the S&B Air Box with Coolant Tank assembly into the truck. Push the prongs on the bottom of the air box into the OE grommets in the frame. Secure using the OE Bolt removed in Step 7.
Step 16: Remove the OE bolt that was inserted into the rubber coolant tube in Step 6 and push the tube end over the end of the 90deg Hose Barb on the Coolant Tank.
Step 17: Remove the coolant from the OE reservoir (I just poured it into styrofoam cups) and pour it into the Coolant Recovery Tank. I was a little low after this so had to get some OEM coolant from Ford.
Step 18: Attach the Reservoir Cap to the Recovery Tank.
Step 19: Insert Adapter Tube to the S&B Air Filter (I chose the oiled filter). Tighten the #80 Hose Clamp.
Step 20: Slide the Filter Assembly into the S&B Air Box. (I opted to use the Filter Wrap since I was using the scoop, so you want to install that before sliding the assembly into the air box)
Step 21: Install 2 #80 Hose Clamps over the Hump Adapter. Push the Hump Adaptor over the end of the Adapter Tube
Step 22: Install the small end of the Silicone Adapter over the throttle body outlet. Secure using a #56 Hose Clamp. Loosely slide the #60 Hose Clamp around the opposite end.
From here on, my steps will illustrate the use of the scoop. If you didn't use it, obviously all of those steps would be removed but the install process is no different just fewer overall steps.
Step 12: Apply Teflon tape (not provided) to the threads of the 90deg Hose Barb and insert the Barb into the Coolant Recovery Tank. Be sure the connection is tight.
Step 13: Place the 3 Large Fender Washers into the indents on the side of the S&B Air Box.
Funny story at this point. You notice it has shifted from day to night. Well I decided I knew better than the instructions and did a test fit of the air box with scoop to see if I could do it that way. Too lazy to take it out so I thought I could install the washers and recovery tank with the air box already in the truck. That was a mistake. Ended up dropping all 3 washers into the engine bay, only 2 made it to the ground. I was home alone, with baby napping and no intake in my truck. So I had to wait until the wife got home and then went out to get a new washer. Lesson learned. Follow instructions!
Step 14: Place the Coolant Recovery Tank on the side of the S&B Air Box and attach it using the 5/16" Hex Bolts and 5/16" Flat Washers. Also use the provided thread locker.
Step 15: Install the S&B Air Box with Coolant Tank assembly into the truck. Push the prongs on the bottom of the air box into the OE grommets in the frame. Secure using the OE Bolt removed in Step 7.
Step 16: Remove the OE bolt that was inserted into the rubber coolant tube in Step 6 and push the tube end over the end of the 90deg Hose Barb on the Coolant Tank.
Step 17: Remove the coolant from the OE reservoir (I just poured it into styrofoam cups) and pour it into the Coolant Recovery Tank. I was a little low after this so had to get some OEM coolant from Ford.
Step 18: Attach the Reservoir Cap to the Recovery Tank.
Step 19: Insert Adapter Tube to the S&B Air Filter (I chose the oiled filter). Tighten the #80 Hose Clamp.
Step 20: Slide the Filter Assembly into the S&B Air Box. (I opted to use the Filter Wrap since I was using the scoop, so you want to install that before sliding the assembly into the air box)
Step 21: Install 2 #80 Hose Clamps over the Hump Adapter. Push the Hump Adaptor over the end of the Adapter Tube
Step 22: Install the small end of the Silicone Adapter over the throttle body outlet. Secure using a #56 Hose Clamp. Loosely slide the #60 Hose Clamp around the opposite end.
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Step 23: Remove the MAF sensor from the OE air box lid using the supplied Torx tool. With the small rubber OE ring gasket in place, install the MAF sensor into the S&B Intake Tube using the M4 screws.
Step 24: Install the Intake Tube into the Silicone Adapter (from throttle body) and then slide the Hump Adapter over the opposite end. Secure all the hose clamps.
Step 25: Install the supplied MAF sensor extension harness between the MAF sensor and the OEM MAF connector. Use the supplied wire tie to position the harness away from any potential hazards.
Step 26: Remove the protective covering from the Clear Lid and then install it. Secure using the four 10/24" Screws, Sealing Washers, and two 5/16" Screws and Rubber washers.
At this point if you didn't use the scoop you would be complete and just reconnect the battery. I will continue with finishing up my scoop installation.
Step 27: Trim the wheel liner (I just used a utility knife). The first picture shows what you will be removing.
After the cut:
Step 28: Locate the 2 mounting bolts from behind the front bumper and fog lamp assembly. In the picture below going from left to right, they are the 2nd and 4th bolt (including the half bolt barely in the picture). Using 10mm socket remove. The one furthest to the right, you don't actually need to completely remove as the mounting bracket for the scoop has slots but I'm not sure you can actually just loosen it without it coming completely out.
Step 29: Attach the Mounting Bracket to the bumper bracket using 3 Flat Washers and the OE Bolt for the left side tab and just the OE Bolt on the right side tab. Use the supplied Thread Locker. Tighten Bolts. *After reinstalling this bracket because of my truck being in a minor accident, I have to say, this was the most difficult part of the entire install. The bolt furthest to the right is really a struggle to get it to bite into the clip once you put the thickness of the bracket under the bolt and washer.
Step 30: Install the three Clip Nuts over the holes on the Scoop Base.
Step 31: Slide the Scoop Channel over the Scoop Base and attach using the three supplied #10-32 Screws and Sealing Washers. You need an 8mm wrench for this step. *Again, after reinstalling this part, I have begun to reconsider the order of this step. It would probably be in the best interest to try to install it prior to actually putting the air box in place. I say this because I realize I have stock wheels and tires and can barely fit my arm between the tire and the front bumper. On that same note, you may have to forego the scoop altogether depending on your wheel and tire setup.
Step 32: Attach the Mounting Bracket to the Scoop Base using the two supplied 5/16" Bolts, four 5/16" Washers and two 5/16" nuts. To tighten, you'll need a 1/2" socket on top and a 1/2" wrench on the inside to hold the nut in place while you tighten.
At this point, I reconnected the negative battery terminal.
Here is the completed project!
The scoop:
The fit and finish of this kit is phenomenal. I was very impressed. And although there are a lot of steps above, its really very straight forward. I was able to move much faster once my wife got home and was able to help me take pictures. I would say if you are able to do it without interruption, and without stupid mistakes (washer incident), this is easily a less than 2 hour job.
The most unfortunate thing about this whole process is I can't yet give a full evaluation. The very weekend after installing this, I went out of town and was excited to see how fuel mileage was impacted and the overall performance. While on that trip, I was a moron and rear-ended someone at a stop light. No real major damage but just enough to have to get it fixed. Should finally get it back tomorrow. Didn't even get to refill the gas to see what the report was!
But I can speak to what I "felt". As has been already mentioned, the stock intake is pretty free flowing already, but I did feel like there were "deeper lungs" if that makes sense. At high RPM's, I felt it was really breathing in better than before. This could all be in my head because I was enjoying having a new toy, but thats where I noticed it most. In conjunction with my tuner and exhaust (had both of those prior to the intake, so I did have a control to base these on) I had a lot of top end power and the sound was nice and full. I had one interesting note of a mild "buzz" that would come and go at 1500rpm. It wasn't like a drone. It would literally just "buzz" for a second and go away. Everything was so new with me reloading the tune and just installing everything that I wasn't convinced it wasn't just part of the truck getting used to everything again. It seemed to subside on my trip.
Anyway, I really hope this helped a few people. Sorry it was so extensive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post or PM. I plan to keep this updated as I have more experience with the intake. I also plan to give the dry filter a go after a few months with the oil filter.
And my final shout out to Ryan at S&B. The guy is fantastic and so far, nothing but positive reviews for the entire company. Thanks again!
Step 24: Install the Intake Tube into the Silicone Adapter (from throttle body) and then slide the Hump Adapter over the opposite end. Secure all the hose clamps.
Step 25: Install the supplied MAF sensor extension harness between the MAF sensor and the OEM MAF connector. Use the supplied wire tie to position the harness away from any potential hazards.
Step 26: Remove the protective covering from the Clear Lid and then install it. Secure using the four 10/24" Screws, Sealing Washers, and two 5/16" Screws and Rubber washers.
At this point if you didn't use the scoop you would be complete and just reconnect the battery. I will continue with finishing up my scoop installation.
Step 27: Trim the wheel liner (I just used a utility knife). The first picture shows what you will be removing.
After the cut:
Step 28: Locate the 2 mounting bolts from behind the front bumper and fog lamp assembly. In the picture below going from left to right, they are the 2nd and 4th bolt (including the half bolt barely in the picture). Using 10mm socket remove. The one furthest to the right, you don't actually need to completely remove as the mounting bracket for the scoop has slots but I'm not sure you can actually just loosen it without it coming completely out.
Step 29: Attach the Mounting Bracket to the bumper bracket using 3 Flat Washers and the OE Bolt for the left side tab and just the OE Bolt on the right side tab. Use the supplied Thread Locker. Tighten Bolts. *After reinstalling this bracket because of my truck being in a minor accident, I have to say, this was the most difficult part of the entire install. The bolt furthest to the right is really a struggle to get it to bite into the clip once you put the thickness of the bracket under the bolt and washer.
Step 30: Install the three Clip Nuts over the holes on the Scoop Base.
Step 31: Slide the Scoop Channel over the Scoop Base and attach using the three supplied #10-32 Screws and Sealing Washers. You need an 8mm wrench for this step. *Again, after reinstalling this part, I have begun to reconsider the order of this step. It would probably be in the best interest to try to install it prior to actually putting the air box in place. I say this because I realize I have stock wheels and tires and can barely fit my arm between the tire and the front bumper. On that same note, you may have to forego the scoop altogether depending on your wheel and tire setup.
Step 32: Attach the Mounting Bracket to the Scoop Base using the two supplied 5/16" Bolts, four 5/16" Washers and two 5/16" nuts. To tighten, you'll need a 1/2" socket on top and a 1/2" wrench on the inside to hold the nut in place while you tighten.
At this point, I reconnected the negative battery terminal.
Here is the completed project!
The scoop:
The fit and finish of this kit is phenomenal. I was very impressed. And although there are a lot of steps above, its really very straight forward. I was able to move much faster once my wife got home and was able to help me take pictures. I would say if you are able to do it without interruption, and without stupid mistakes (washer incident), this is easily a less than 2 hour job.
The most unfortunate thing about this whole process is I can't yet give a full evaluation. The very weekend after installing this, I went out of town and was excited to see how fuel mileage was impacted and the overall performance. While on that trip, I was a moron and rear-ended someone at a stop light. No real major damage but just enough to have to get it fixed. Should finally get it back tomorrow. Didn't even get to refill the gas to see what the report was!
But I can speak to what I "felt". As has been already mentioned, the stock intake is pretty free flowing already, but I did feel like there were "deeper lungs" if that makes sense. At high RPM's, I felt it was really breathing in better than before. This could all be in my head because I was enjoying having a new toy, but thats where I noticed it most. In conjunction with my tuner and exhaust (had both of those prior to the intake, so I did have a control to base these on) I had a lot of top end power and the sound was nice and full. I had one interesting note of a mild "buzz" that would come and go at 1500rpm. It wasn't like a drone. It would literally just "buzz" for a second and go away. Everything was so new with me reloading the tune and just installing everything that I wasn't convinced it wasn't just part of the truck getting used to everything again. It seemed to subside on my trip.
Anyway, I really hope this helped a few people. Sorry it was so extensive. If you have any questions, please feel free to post or PM. I plan to keep this updated as I have more experience with the intake. I also plan to give the dry filter a go after a few months with the oil filter.
And my final shout out to Ryan at S&B. The guy is fantastic and so far, nothing but positive reviews for the entire company. Thanks again!
Last edited by russ10screw; Jun 23, 2012 at 04:13 PM.
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Nice write up!
Remember to contact Mike@5star to revise your tunes....maybe you already have?....That wasn't mentioned in your opening paragraph.....
Remember to contact Mike@5star to revise your tunes....maybe you already have?....That wasn't mentioned in your opening paragraph.....
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Thank you sir!
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
The only explanation or reasoning that your tunes wouldn't need to be rewritten is that the diameter of the intake tube of where the maf is mounted didn't change at all or that much along with its location along the length of the intake tube....
If that's what Mike said then go with it
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Haha, nope. James Avery. Wife got it for me as a gift after we finished our confirmation classes together.
No you have me wondering again. The MAF is in a new location. Had to install an extension. Its now up closer to the throttle body rather than closer to the air box. Think I should inquire again?
Thanks!
Thanks!
So was I....
The only explanation or reasoning that your tunes wouldn't need to be rewritten is that the diameter of the intake tube of where the maf is mounted didn't change at all or that much along with its location along the length of the intake tube....
If that's what Mike said then go with it
The only explanation or reasoning that your tunes wouldn't need to be rewritten is that the diameter of the intake tube of where the maf is mounted didn't change at all or that much along with its location along the length of the intake tube....
If that's what Mike said then go with it
Thanks!
Thanks!
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
As i stated before.....if Mike says its going to be okay then don't worry about it....
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As usual, I'll be the devil's advocate here. 
It costs nothing to ask again - include a pic of the appropriate MAF mounting region, exact intake part/model number, and get a confirm.
Sometimes these things go through a redesign that the tuner feller has not seen yet.
The other thing to remember is, a lot of these aftermarket rotomolded intakes have production tolerance variations of ~10%. This can skew the MAF TF if that variation occurs in the MAF region. (Source = VMP).
So - IMHO only - a check of the A/F's would go a long way to assure you of a dead-on MAF TF. Or at least some logging off fuel trims, etc.
Good luck!
MGD
It costs nothing to ask again - include a pic of the appropriate MAF mounting region, exact intake part/model number, and get a confirm.
Sometimes these things go through a redesign that the tuner feller has not seen yet.
The other thing to remember is, a lot of these aftermarket rotomolded intakes have production tolerance variations of ~10%. This can skew the MAF TF if that variation occurs in the MAF region. (Source = VMP).
So - IMHO only - a check of the A/F's would go a long way to assure you of a dead-on MAF TF. Or at least some logging off fuel trims, etc.
Good luck!
MGD