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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 12:57 PM
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Broken header bolts

Alright I've broken 3 header bolts and they have about 1/2 inch sticking out I have tried heating them up tapping them with a hammer and using vise grips to spin them out but no luck my question is there another thing I can try or do I need to cut them flush and drill them out I do have an easy out kit ( I've never tried it before) also the motor is out of the truck so I have plenty of access

Also as a side note 8 of the studs stayed in the block I am putting on long tube headers and already got the stage 8 locking bolts but i'm thinking about only using them where the studs came out and just get new nuts for the bolts that are still in the block any comments on that?

thanks for any help
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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If you have a welder then put a nut over the stud and weld it on. Then while it's still hot try to back them out with a 6 point socket. If they break then you can use the easy outs. It's been my experience that easy outs-aren't, and are a last ditch effort.

If they break and you need to drill them then put the manifold back on the remaining bolts. Use a drill that just fits the holes and "surface" the broken stud. This will allow you to drill in the center of the stud. Take the manifold back off and drop down to the proper size drill bit for your not-so-easy-out. This will keep you from damaging the threads in the head.

Good luck. Should be a piece of cake with the motor out.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jgger
If you have a welder then put a nut over the stud and weld it on. Then while it's still hot try to back them out with a 6 point socket. If they break then you can use the easy outs. It's been my experience that easy outs-aren't, and are a last ditch effort.

If they break and you need to drill them then put the manifold back on the remaining bolts. Use a drill that just fits the holes and "surface" the broken stud. This will allow you to drill in the center of the stud. Take the manifold back off and drop down to the proper size drill bit for your not-so-easy-out. This will keep you from damaging the threads in the head.

Good luck. Should be a piece of cake with the motor out.
I agree with this, except I would let the bolts cool completely before trying to turn the stud out. The thermal shock seems to loosen the grip of the aluminum on the steel stud. Usually it may break off once or twice, but usually it happens right under the nut, so you can try it again. It's better if you can find an unplated nut and washer. There are several good youtube videos on this subject. New studs are available is the help section at most car parts stores. Ford did offer copper plated stainless steel studs as a more durable replacement for the tiny weak OE studs, but they were expensive, and I'm not sure if they still offer them. Usually the failures occur an the rearmost studs.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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Well I think i'm gonna weld a nut on and see what happens I just have to wait till tomorrow for my buddy to come over with his welder since I don't have one. But what should I do about all the other full studs that are still in the block just reuse them or weld a nut on them and try to back them out as well?
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 04:20 PM
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If the other studs are intact then you should be able to double nut them and back them out. If it was mine and the engine is on a stand I'd change them all out now, it's alot harder when it's in the truck..........but that's just my $0.02
 
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 04:40 PM
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you definitely want to get all the studs out.

I vote against cutting and drilling, with the hard studs the drill bit will want to walk off the side and go into the block.....
 
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:25 PM
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got them all out the double nut trick worked great for the studs then had to weld a nut on the 3 broken ones a little heat and an impact gun and they came right out thanks for the help
 
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Good to hear, congrats!
 
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