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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #16  
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If you have the cone filter that is a few inches from the fender then it is a bit tricky.

Here is what mine looks like without the rubber coupler.


And this is with


The filter is too far away to use the 2" to 3" coupler (a member on the PHP forum tried) but is too close to use the other 5.4L style gotts mod. All you need from the PVC is to keep the 3" coupler centered over the hole.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:20 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by BLFX4K
I have a 5.4 so ill be following similar modifications i just want to try the new coupler method. It looks great and a lot less hassle then shaving pipe down
I thought the same thing. There is another write up in the articles section that has the Lowes part number for the down spout connector as well. Everything is very easy to find in Lowes, all on the same Isle . I had a guy there cut my pvc pipe down to the 7.5" for me while I was there too.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:23 PM
  #18  
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Awesome ill go ahead and take a look at it and make a trip to lowes sometime today
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:31 PM
  #19  
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And remember, your not making a cake so you can look for alternatives if they dont have everything. The goal is to make a 3 inch intake adapter to connect the fender of the truck to the air filter housing. It needs to be sturdy enough to not "pucker" when the engine really starts sucking air but still be low priced and able to be worked with. I've seen all kinds of stuff. Even that metal piping for wood stoves (the adjustable turns) will work if you cut it to fit lengthwise.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BLFX4K
Awesome ill go ahead and take a look at it and make a trip to lowes sometime today
Post a pic of the after!
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #21  
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So we need 7.5" of pvc piping for this mod? I looked at the on in the article and says 7.5" pvc pipe, female-female adapter, 4" worm clip, and the rubber downspout

Or could i just run the downspout with some pipe inside to prevent it collapsing, some pvc pipe and a worm clamp?

thanks
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #22  
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Open the hood and take a picture. Not all of the 5.4L trucks use that same mod. A friend of mine has 99 ish 5.4 and he has to do the same exact thing I did on my 4.6L because he has the cone filter next to the fender.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #23  
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My 5.4 looks the same as bonanza and jared lutes' modification setup
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by BLFX4K
My 5.4 looks the same as bonanza and jared lutes' modification setup
Ok, I must have gotten confused when you said you had the cone filter. All of the trucks I have seen with the cone filter are set up like mine.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #25  
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Only thing relating to the cone filter would have been the couple, you might have them confused. haha

But mine is an 08 5.4 setup like the other two guys' trucks, well it will be once ive gotten everything taken care of!
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 05:08 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BLFX4K
Only thing relating to the cone filter would have been the couple, you might have them confused. haha

But mine is an 08 5.4 setup like the other two guys' trucks, well it will be once ive gotten everything taken care of!
Ohhhh, I thought you meant you had a cone filter.

...and I just realized I got your truck mixed up with another person I'm talking to on another thread. I was thinking you had an '01. Ooops! Sorry! :o
 

Last edited by Longshot270; Jun 27, 2010 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BLFX4K
Did you use some pvc pipe, clamp and downspout for this setup?
Seems much easier then sanding and filing to get a perfect fit
How does it handle the engine torque?
How snug is the fitment? Dont want it to fall out
What this is is black ABS pipe, A clamp and a downspout connector. I also ABS glued the ABS pipe and the downspout connector together. Engine torque is no problem, I get little to no movement at all. Fitment is perfect it was a tight squeeze but it worked perfect.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 08:24 PM
  #28  
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OK folks, I did the deed to my 2000 XLT 7700 4X4 with the 5.4 today. Piece of cake. Here is hint though. When you go to Lowe's look for the 2 ft pieces of FOAM CORE PIPE. It is the exact same diameter but the sanding is a cinch. Once you have sanded through the outside shell be careful because the foam core sands very easily and fits nice and snug when you push it in that oval hole. With the Fernco adapter I think the piece of pipe I needed was something like 4" long but I have to admit that if I had seen the post about the premade tube from Pep Boys, I would have gone that route. While I had it apart I decided to add the K&N reusable filter. Im not sure whether it is going to make any performance difference but its only something like double the cost of the paper filter anyway and it is washable and reusable so if it lasts twice as long as the paper, I feel like I am at least breaking even and it sure looks like it will hold up a lot longer than that. Unfortunately, as I was reconnecting the ratchet ring that holds the filter housiung together, the sucker gave way and broke in 2 from rust. Luckily my E350 uses the same ring so its back together, just have to find a new one eventually now. I did disconnect the battery and turn light switch on and when I reconnected it was all fine. The truck SEEMS to run with less effort and she absolutely came up the grade into town much easier than in the past. There seems to be less engine braking when stopping and going down hill but maybe I am imagining that. Gotts to say she has more power for sure. Itll be interesting to see what she is like on the highway in the morning. Id say she sounds a little smoother and more serious but still sounds a little sick until I replace the leaky manifolds with headers and get the duals on, hopefully in the next week or 2. I was not able to tell where the "silencer" was so didnt deal with that but if I figure it out, Ill probably go for that too. Took me longer to figure out what I was doing than to actually do it. Including sanding, then spray painting the pipe reassembling twice because of the broken strap, I dont think it took a whole hour. Im sure I could do the next one in half the time. If it adds anything at all it Gotts to be worth the hour and $15!
Hiwire
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 09:42 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza
The BEST solution out there is to go to Pep Boys and go into the ricer intake section. There, you fill find a product that looks like dryer duct. I recommend shelling out the 20 dollars for this product over similar tubing from Home Depot because it is made to work like the straws with those flexible kinks at the top. They will hold the position you bend them in. Also, The kits come with 2 rubber couplers that fit perfectly into the fender hole and keeps it there. Then simply clamp the other end into the stock intake. No sanding, drilling, grinding, ugly-at-home-look. The finished product is perfectly stock looking and is better able to absorb the bumps and flexs of the engine without ripping out of the fender hole.

This is the advice I took.

After 2 days of trying to sand that damn PVC down by hand with a file I gave up and went to pep boys and bought one of those.

Easy fit and all. I should have done this from the begining. I put a rubber coupler on the end and put it into the fender. Nice snug fit. Still had my rubber flexible coupler. Put the other end of the intake tube with a ruber coupler into the flexible one. Tightend everything down and connected my intake like regular. everything was a easy as pie after buying that.

The only problem is two of my wires that are underneath the snorkel split in half. That was a PITA!!! I had to crimp them and everything. Got it to work and the truck hasn't thrown up any codes yet.

All in all it would have taken me 30 min, but it took me 2 days cause of the stupid PVC.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2010 | 11:15 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BLFX4K
So we need 7.5" of pvc piping for this mod? I looked at the on in the article and says 7.5" pvc pipe, female-female adapter, 4" worm clip, and the rubber downspout

Or could i just run the downspout with some pipe inside to prevent it collapsing, some pvc pipe and a worm clamp?

thanks
Honestly your talking a savings of less than $5. I would just do it the way it is explained without cutting corners because we know it works well. After all its only $15 or so.
 
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