oh great thats good to know, i only have 18k miles so hopefully i shouldnt have any frozen bolts or nuts.

so is that everything you have to remove just the starter and the wheel wells?

 

Not sure on the 4x4 models but on my 4x2 I had to raise the engine up on the passenger side about 1 inch, extra clearance needed to wiggle the header in there, it was a tight fit and scraped off some of the ceramic coating pretty good. You may want to wrap an old towel or something around it to prevent the scratches and such you will get trying to wrestle that thing up in there.

 

I heard that there was a ceramic coating option but had a hard time tracking it down myself. Spoke with a representative the other day posing the question and it now appears as an option on their front page. Add part # 90-00100 to your order. $260 per set (headers only). I decided that if I'm going to do this then I might as well do it right. Guess I'm going to go with the coating but man is this getting expensive! $1100 for the headers alone! Little less drinking and a little more working I guess? LOL

http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatec...ruck_supermaxx

 

I've spent more than 8 hours trying to remove one exhaust manifold stud. If the stud wasn't stuck I probably could have completed the entire installation in less than 8 hours. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, extractors and vice grips. The only option left is to weld a nut on the end. The only parts of the truck that had to be removed were the wheels, wheel wells, starter, and dipstick tube. The dipstick tube was actually pretty hard to get out. I had to keep wiggling it while soaking it with penetrating oil. If you want to keep your old exhaust, you will have to remove the transmission crossmember. I took my exhaust out in pieces using a rotozip and sawzall. I test fit the passenger side header and with the starter removed it slips right in. No need to raise my motor.

 

a neat trick with the studs if the threaded part is still good, screw two nuts on the stud back to back and tighten down, with a wrench grab the one closest to the head and then proceed to remove it like any other bolt/nut. I had to do this on a few of the studs and it worked each time, just have to have a stubby wrench.

 

so are you guys just getting the headers only and then using your stock cats? or are you getting the intermediate tubes also?

also where are you ordering them from?

 

i did the same. it helps

 

30/35 hp if your custom tunes for them maybe.

I only got a 7 hp increase when I went from stock manifolds, high flow cats, single in dual out 40 series Flowmaster exhaust to, OBX longtubes, high flow cats, true dual's into Flowmaster super 44's.

Dyno Backed results.

my obx header install

 

where did you guys buy them?

 

I'm ordering mine from a local dealer near Harrisburg. Quoted $1420 for the complete set. Long tubes, high flow cats and intermediate. Supposed to be a true bolt on, no mod set. Oxy sensor mounts, etc...the whole works. Check their site out and they list all of the authorized dealers. I got lucky and had one a half hour away. Unfortunately that quotes going to go up for me because I decided to go ceramic coat. Good news is I already have 3" back from there into a flowmaster 44, broke out into duels and 45 out the back. Put 16" stainless tips on but have no idea why or what the different lengths do. Honestly thought they were just for looks before finding this site. Assume tone but that's a topic I haven't researched on here yet.

 

yeah i looked on the site and i have no one within 200 miles of me. all the sites that i look at dont seem to have them for an 08. jegs only says they have them for the 04-06 and you cannot choose the option for ceramic.

the only place i can seem to find is troyer for the price of $1,399. however those do not come ceramic either. how much difference does ceramic make anyway?

 

Well....All I can tell you about ceramic is what I've read on here (like I said....I don't really know much about exhaust systems). From my understanding, it helps keep all of heat locked in the tube and out the exhaust rather than allowing the stainless to get hot and heating up your engine compartment. Helps air flow which helps horsepower but someone correct me if I'm wrong on that. Haven't heard anyone say it's a waste and I've looked around so for me, I don't want to look back and say I wish I would have.

However.....Any site or dealer that you find selling the system I'm sure can get you ceramic. If you don't see that option on the website, give them a call and talk to them in person. If they don't know what you're talking about...Give them the part # and ask them to check it out. I'm sure you won't have a problem getting ceramic if you decide to go that route.

 

true

yes i know what it does and all that but i wouldnt think that there would be that much difference in temperature between stainless and ceramic

 

anyone?