No....but S&B, Banks, Volant and others are too...not quite sure what your response meant. If you mean the factory is more restrictive, I couldn't agree more! But as far as letting in more dirt....I dunno. You could also look at it as dry filters flow better than oiled. For example, take a rag, soak it and try to breathe through it. Suck in. Now do the same to a dry rag. Bet you the dry rag breathes easier, each weave isn't filled with some liquid, which is now in your mouth...no matter how "lightly" you oil, errr, soak the rag with water.

 

http://www.thetruthaboutfilters.com/

 

sorry but that doesnt help. it is no different then any other air filter company trying to sell there product.

According to who? AEM? that was the response given to me by thump and you agreed, so i will give the same response in return for the same answer. i am sorry if you guys cant realize the advancements in technology. as for you guys saying it is a paper filter once again do some research before you talk, it is not a standard paper filter. in order to make everybody happy how about some independent tests?

 

Personally, I don't give a rats *** if you use a dry or oiled filter. After all it's not my truck. I'm only sharing my knowledge and opinions on the matter. The fact of the matter is the dry filters do NOT filter as good as the oiled filters. What technology advancements are you talking about? Are you talking about the dry filters making the air filter media a tighter weave? It's a poor attempt at trying to make them filter better. They still don't and they usually don't flow as well. Once they get a bunch of dirt on them, they start filtering "decent". As far as the comment about people talking about "paper" filters. There was only one person and that was Ryan. As far as independent tests. I used to be sponsored by Amsoil. Amsoil did some tests on air filters for their riders, which at the time they did not produce air filters and I don't even know if they do today, and they proved what I've been saying.

Who knows? Unless you put it on a dyno or get a wideband A/F meter, you'll never know. Every single truck is different. I had a S&B cai and was running pretty damn rich with the factory tuning and no CEL. I'd highly suggest getting a custom tuned Xcal2 or Xcal3 to compensate for the extra air being drawn in.

 

Don't forget that not all intakes have C.A.R.B. Executive Order numbers. Airaid is CA legal.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm[



Well there is a clear pattern on filtration ability compared to both flow and the type of filtration media used. The "high performance" cotton gauze and foam filters do not filter as well as some have claimed. I actually received an e-mail from K&N stating their filters filter within 99% of the OEM filters. This may be true, and 1% may not sound like much. I contend that 1% over many miles, may be important. Really, it is up to each individual to decide. The poorer flowing filters, remove more particles, and the better flowing filters remove less particles. If you think about it, that conclusion passes any and all common sense tests, so it is not surprising. There are many that will be shocked by the results, that should not be though. I've used high performance filters in the past, and I might again in the future. At the same time, I know that the stock OEM type filters perform very well in filtration and don't inhibit flow nearly as much as some think.

I know it will be asked.... The K&N was properly cleaned and serviced using a K&N filter recharging kit which I personally own (owned quite a few K&Ns). The Amsoil filter was serviced with Amsoil filter oil. The others will be serviced with the appropriate oil as well. The paper air filter will be installed.... I did have a question regarding the deposit on the filter possibly being oil. It is dirt. I took a piece of my 2nd filter test stock and put a few drops of K&N filter oil on it. The oil stays bright red on the filter as well. One person even mentioned the dirt in their area isn't that black. Well this is Western WA state where everything grows lush green. I live 90 minutes from full fledged rain forest and the soil here is black like topsoil. I guess I could take a picture of my white powder coated wheels turned black from road dirt if I had to. If you have a HEPA filtration air purifier in your home and have ever changed the HEPA filter, you will notice that it too is black. The Napa paper filter tested showed the same black deposits. Paper filters have no oil on them, so the oil hypothesis is a dead issue. In the e-mail I received from K&N, I actually got contradictory information on this point. They claimed that the deposit on my test filter was oil (it isn't), and then they said oil does not leave the filter and damage mass air sensors. Honestly, you can't have it both ways. Either oil leaves the filter or it doesn't. Oil will damage a mass air sensor if it gets on the sensor wiring. This is highly documented by TSBs easily available online.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm

So what do these results mean? For one, there is very little pressure drop across any air filter, and the difference between the best (K&N) and worst (paper) is very small. Yes as total power output increases, air flow increases, and differential pressure would also increase. So a K&N probably does yield some power on higher output race motors where every last ounce of power must be squeezed out. On lower powered street cars, it is probably not much of an improvement over paper. Basically, an air filter is first and foremost a filter, and should be chosen for it's filtration ability. I know after this enlightening experiment, that is exactly how I will select my air filters. Also remember, that this total differential pressure is measured from the atmosphere via the stock Miata air intake tube, airbox, accross the filter, though the test port, about 6 feet of tygon tubing and the manometer and back to the atmosphere. This is not the pressure drop across the filter itself. I may do a quick test with no filter ( I really hate to do it, but might anyway) to get a good estimate of how much is the system itself sans the filter.

 

I have gone to an Airaid MIT with a AEM dry flow filter. I previously had both the K&N and Trueflow panel filters installed in the stock box. Even when lightly oiled they both let oil deposits drip down the intake. After going to the dry flow filter this was void of course. As far as sound or performance feel I cannot tell any difference. I have no other engine mods done only a catback exhaust system. I just choose to not have dirty oil entering my engine. To each his own as they say.

 

nice find big slick.

 

Great, but where's the AEM and S&B!?

 

I would've imagine that you could've extrapolated the information based on the articles. generally, the more a high performance filter "flows" the worse it going to filter. the difference between a paper filter and a HP filter of the same surface area is minimal. so what's the difference between AEM, AF1 and S&B if the filtration and perfomance is similar between filters? intake tube design and filter volume.

 

Was just joking, Bud...

 

Hey, whats up? Im new on this. I got a 2003 f150 lariat supercrew. What exactly is droning????

 

my bad. hard to detect sarcasm over the net.

 

im not on one side or the other but here's some data i've come across:

http://www.mgtmotorsports.com/images...-2514-4iso.pdf

notice the efficiency %'s. it lists the oem filter as 99.63% and the s&b as 99.46%. thats .17 of a difference. its not much of a difference, but s&b is admitting that the oem filter gets more particles.

bottom line: the oem filter *may* keep more dirt out. but a performance filter will allow more airflow than the oem paper one.