Yea, I know. They don't seal well over a transition. I either just split pipe in half keeping both sides 2.5 (2 1/2") - no transition. Or I shimmed the smaller side w/ thin/flexible gauge aluminum . Wrapped it a couple times/ snipped / then thru the clamp on.

EDIT! - I was in a hurry when I wrote this awhile ago lol - Anyway those band clamps in the picture wouldn't work up by the Y for this install . I opted to use my existing 2 1/2 (stock )10 year old Y.

The 3" bung-less 2 piece Pacesetter cross-over & Y pipe absolutely blows. The second (smaller) piece is suppose to "slip-fit" right about where B1S2 is on the existing cross-over. Well, they over expanded the pipe, right in the radius !!- it wasn't even round - you could shove a house in the gap it was so loose. To top it off, it didn't fit , it hit my trans or transfer case - I can't remember now .. They gave me a hard time about it for awhile - but I ended up getting a refund. I did have plans for a tune, changed my mind tho.

So, I used my stock 2 1/2 " set-up. I had to use 3.8L connecting rod ends and caps for clamps back by the factory Y where I had to tap into/join the rest of the system. The pipe has a few funky angles before the Y (passenger side). Drivers side, - I clamped right before the cross-over radius.. I needed a heavier clamp to pinch/crimp the pipes together.

I wanna do a better job on it after I find another DD to get around in, it's alright for now.

Jackal , you still driving your truck ? Sounds like it's going to be down for awhile.. Personally , if I had to pull the heads, I think I would just yank the motor. Unless time didn't allow that option. Seems like it would be easier handling what needs to be done that way.

Good Luck

 

HAHAHA...that's great.

 

This is my third attempt to get there, so /me crosses fingers.... It was snowing last week and wet tires on rollers ain't gonna cut it, but supposed to be over 40 degrees this wednesday so barring rain I should be good to go.

I had a 4x4 before this one, was nice to just roll under it to change the oil. Now with the Roush front air dam my jack won't go under so I jack up one side till I can get a jackstand under the frame, then go under the k-member to lift the whole thing, and reverse it on the way down. That, and being damn cold here lately is why I haven't just run out to check clearance for you guys....

 

So Jackal, have you installed these things yet? I have a 1999 4.6l 5spd, with a manifold leak, which is a good enough excuse for me to give my dad to make him let me redo the whole exaust. I like the looks of the OBX longtubes, especially cuz with the y pipe, i can finish the exhaust myself without risking butchering it if I had to make a new y pipe or something. Just wondering if the headers themselves fit right, with no rubbing or anything.

Other than that, I've sorta gathered that I will need to rig up something for the sensor to get it to 3/4. And get some magnaflow cats, like the part # that you left as a link way back in the pages.

Am i sorta right, or way off???

 

I haven't, but I should know more after the 20th. when I start tearing it down for the headgasket job. I plan to test fit the headers when I get the manifolds off. 01Roush should have us some numbers today.

FYI, I read that the "L" guys were using a garden hose cap from HD / Lowes for an EGR delete, but this was too sloppy fitting and barely long enough on the OBX, so I got a 3/4" pipe cap in the same section. It is a VERY tight fit, but after 30 min. with a deadblow hammer working it on & off it fits PERFECTLY, looks great, and will work flawlessly. Just had some minor brass "filings" to blow out. I got it just in case I have to cap it off until I can fab up an EGR setup.

 

It allot easier to delete. I did for a little while until my parts came.

I didn't use a garden hose tho - lol.


I spun this off and Caped it - easy to find the parts .





Then just capped the valve itself. Temporarily -





BTW - As far as a thorough EGR delete - Check this out ---

http://69.13.120.175/forums/showthread.php?t=200740

 

Check your email jbrew.

 

I did , I don't have anything (un-read) new - Checked all 3 boxes ..

Where did you send ?

I did find this tho on an old hard drive -



I new I made an EGR conversion before - I can't find the damn thing out in the shop. I can't even find the TAP. I'm going to have to look again . I remember doing this one now - I actually chopped the pipe and threaded the inside of the tube lol. Never did use it tho. I finished it (don't have pics of the finished product) I'll have to find it.

 

K, check your PM's.

 

I'm trying to get the fender liners out of the way. I removed the 4 screws and outer push-in fastener on each side of the front fender flares, but there are green tabs of some sort holding them on to the fenders and I'm afraid of breaking the flares or the tabs themselves. Any tips?

 

Don't have to take the flares off(Green deals are push/pull snaps) - They don't need to be removed tho. To get to the 6-7 mm screw/bolts for the wheel well that seem to disappear behind the flare - bend the flare outward just enough to get to the inner f-well screws. You should only have to do this toward the bottom. Taking it loose down by the rocker panel first will make that easier. - Look under - you'll see.

 

Uhhh....if you're stuck getting the fender liners out should you be attempting a longtube header install?

 

Hahahaha...probably not. I didn't put any thought into it, my biggest concern is getting this damn headgasket job done, so I just moved on.

 

Yea, your not going to have a problem with those valve covers are yuh? - They can be tricky

 

Well, the liners are out, as are the O2 sensors, and driver's side collector nuts. Thank god for PB Blaster, 3/8 to 1/2 adapters, break-over bars, & cheater bar extensions. This kind of corrosion and no air tools = fun times on the creeper.

I'm going to go ahead and change the blinker fluid at all 4 corners and hit the sack.






:o You guys suck.