For the 5.0 motors there was a compact high torque starter that a lot of guys ran on Mustangs, anybody know if there are any for mod motors? Or any certain year/model that has a smaller body starter?

 

That'd be nice, but the biggest problem is the bellhousing that flares out where the base of the starter mounts.

 

Alright, another option....

Have a shop cut out a 1/2" thick flange that mimics the header flange for a spacer, should be able to find a few folks that need them and get a better group price...

 

I wondered myself if that would work. It might push the header too close to the frame though.

 

Would most likely cause clearance issues with the control arm mounts on 4x4 models. I took the header to a metal fabricator today and he is going to cut & twist the two pipes that are causing the problem, and tack them back so I can approve it before he welds them up. I'll take pics and keep ya'll updated. Should be an easy mod if I can get it to work. I just hope the mid-pipes clear the crossbar members, etc.

 

I apologize in advance for my potentially stupid questions, this is just not something that im very knowledgeable about, but i really want to do.

First question--I have a 3 inch body lift. will this effect the install/make it impossible??

second question--What else do i need aside from just the header kit to make this happen?? what else do i need to buy for it to work with my flowmaster 40's

Thanks a lot in advance, I really do appreciate it.

 

I don't think the lift would cause any additional issues. If you're going OBX, you'll need cats to replace the resonators that come with the kit. Check this thread or Roush01's for more info on those. Also, I would recommend a set of stainless locking header bolts, Ford Racing header gaskets, BBK or Troyer O2 extenders (2), and some nickel anti-sieze.

 

The fabricator has em tacked up and ready to test fit, problem is the heads aren't done yet. Hopefully tomorrow. Tack another $200 on to the total. :o

 

Got the tacked header and welded parts today. The heads will be done tomorrow. I hope to get the pass. side on tomorrow night so I can mount the header, but have to leave town for the day early on Sat. I'll prob. take a vacation day on Mon. to get caught up. Of course I can't be sure of crap right now, but I know I'm damn close due to the spot on the engine mount I had to grind and it looks REALLY good for the pass. side header now. I mean, perfect if my eyeballin' is right.

From this perspective...just had to twist #2 counter-clockwise approx. 20 degrees and push #4 out about 3/16" for added clearance. It probably didn't even need to be changed. He had wedged two 3/16" plates in there (3/8"), but I pulled one out for now. If I end up needing more clearance on #2, we've already got that marked up too, and I know it will work one way or another.



Another view:



My "custom fit" 3/4" pipe cap:



Sexy TIG welds. The hell with MIG. Looks factory. Also deleted the 2nd. bung in the process. These cats worked PERFECTLY and even added clearance compared to the OBX resonators. Ya can't beat that.

 

looks nice, next major investment for me might be a tig. poor mig giving me a hard time as far as laying a nice looking bead.

well with stainless it is.

 

make your own for a few cents?? all u need is a soldering iron some heat shrink and some wire loom. extend your own. extenders can generate resistance due to the terminals are not always a perfect fit and have a different conductibility than the copper wire. so its best to solder longer wires in. that are the same gauge. that is what i did. worked great and saved me 20 bucks for about 10 minutes worth of soldering.

 

LOL what else would the wire be besides copper? make sure its the same size or bigger so u dont add any resistance.

 

He was refering to the terminals, they are not copper and are known to cause higher resistance if there isn't a good connection.

 

oh i gotcha i guess i didnt read very well.

 

Don't cheap out, either extend the O2 sensor wires, (not the truck harness) or buy Troyer'ss extenders, if they're not just the BBK's. Mine look factory and are VERY nicely done.