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2013 V-6 non EcoBoost
80k miles
Calif truck, so no salt, snow, water issues
I'm having an issue starting, turn the key and it cranks/turns over/spins the motor ( just so you know the starter is doing it's job), but it will not fire (actually start). I had the same issue about 2 months ago and pulled the starter on the side of the road turned it by hand (the starter) and put it back in with no problems until today.
So today I get a battery light on the dash, I figured it was because the positive cable had a lot of corrosion on it. So I pulled the battery and cleaned everything with baking soda and water, wire brushed all the connections and put it back together. Tried to staer it and no go. It goes through all the motions but no fire.
Battery voltage is 12v. With my analogue meter
Tested the alt output at the batt before cleaning looks to be 15v.
R & R the starter, nothing is sticking.
I bought another starter but don't want to put it in because I don't think that is the issue. What else should I look at or check?
FPDM??? How do I check that?
I hate when people fix their issues and don't post what it was. So here it is.
The newer vehicles don't have an actual "start" position on the switch, rather it is a sequence that is handled by the computer, a program. They will crank for 10 to15 seconds or until the motor actually starts. This isn't on just vehicles with a start button, it is built into the ignition switch. So in my case it was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel.......because it wasn't.
On my 2013 truck the FPDM fuse was fried. Number 27 in the engine compartment fuse box, it is a 20A mini fuse. When I tried to remove it, it just crumbled. Evidently this is not uncommon. I yanked a spare fron the cab fuse panel, cleaned the contacts, fired that bad boy right up.
I don't know what the fuse will cost, but I suspect it will be a tad less than a new starter. And that, in the words of Paul Harvey, is the rest of the story.
Hope this helps someone else, I love cheap fixes. I am going to try to post a couple of pictures. Battery terminals all cleaned up. Slot#27 for 20A FPDM This fuse looked perfect from the top.
It would have helped if you have simply described the issue as "Crank but no fire". Lots of confusing terms were used.
Ford came out with a relocation kit for fuse F27 to prevent future failures of that fuse and its holder in the fuse box. See https://ford.oemdtc.com/TSB/15-0137.pdf
ProjectSHO thanks for the reply, I have always respected the knowledge you bring to this forum. As for the crank but no fire, you are correct. What threw me was that it continued to crank with my hands off of the key. Plus I was trying to avoid the confusion that some bring to the terms crank and turn over.........guess I blew that one!Haha
Thanks for the tip on the fuse relocation kit, as it turns out I have an appointment at Ford today at 9:00 this morning for the downshift recall. I will ask them about the kit. I did bugger up the slot 27 a little so the timing it perfect. I see the installation time is .6hrs and assume that is for the pros, how long should it take the average dufus like myself?
Again thanks for your answer, you are one of the people i was hoping would chime in.
Others have reported up to a half hour to an hour in the driveway, assuming one has the necessary soldering gear and skill, to install the kit.
On your truck, the start sequence is initiated by turning the key to the START position, then the PCM takes over without regard to whether or not the key is maintained in the START position as long as it isn't switched to OFF. The PCM disengages the starter once an engine rpm threshold is reached, a set crank time is exceeded or the ignition is turned OFF. What you observed is normal behavior when the engine doesn't fire and start.
Last edited by projectSHO89; 05-16-2019 at 09:59 AM.
FWIW anytime that you find a burned device like that (light bulb, fuse, plug or socket, a relay, etc) it's usually because it had a bad connection to whatever it was plugged into and any current flow caused what is called "I squared R heating" of the contact point and that will melt the plastic around the contact and will also burn the contacts and make the problem even worse. Long story short, any time that you have a failed electrical device you need to look at it and it's socket closely for any signs of melting or overheating. If you find any then you need to replace both the plug and socket or at least clean them WELL and make sure that they're making a GOOD electrical connection. If left unrepaired, the damaged connection will cause the new device to fail and can also overheat nearby wires and sockets and spread the problem to other unrelated circuits. If bad enough, it can also cause an electrical fire.
FYI The F-150s have had this "crank until it starts or for at least 15 seconds or until the battery voltage crops below xx.x volts" since at least 2010. It's part of the starter control circuitry and not the starter itself. I'm not sure what the point of it is, other than to prevent people endless cranking a defective engine and damaging the starter/wiring/battery.
Joe and SHO thanks for the info, I'm at Fritts Ford as I type. Got the kit $37 and change. After they do the reflash maybe it will quit raining long enough to install it.
Again, thanks for the help, you guys are the BEST!
And that, boys and girls is how you do it AFTER you find the fix. No dead ends.
I had a similar problem with an old car of mine. Sounds like it could be a fuel pump or filter causing low flow issues. Does the car have and problems when it's going up a hill or at highway speeds?
05-15-2019, 11:40 PM
