alternators
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
alternators
I'm looking to purchase a new alternator as the drain on my battery gets larger. My battery is a Die Hard Range Handler and my alternator is stock. I already have 2 KC Daylighers and my MSG Ignition is also drawing extra power. Within the next month, I will be running an additional 5 KC daylighers so you can see some extra power would be very beneficial. Anyone have any reccomendations for me? Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Richarson, TX
Urban Cowboy:
It's kind of hard to answer that question without some more information. I'm assuming that you are only going to run the lights with the engine running faster than idle.
1)Do you plan on running those 7 KC lights all the time or just every so often in 10-15 minute bursts? Will the engine be running faster than an idle?
2)What is the amperage of each light? If you don't know the amperage, divide the bulb wattage by 12 (volts) to get the amps (ex.- a 60 Watt bulb pulls 5 amps on a 12 volt system).
3)What is the amperage rating of your stock alternator?
4)If you just want to run the KC's for a few minutes at a time you may not need a bigger alternator. If that is the case, what is the amp-hour rating of your battery? Make sure you get the amp-hour rating and not the CCA or cold cranking amps.
It's kind of hard to answer that question without some more information. I'm assuming that you are only going to run the lights with the engine running faster than idle.
1)Do you plan on running those 7 KC lights all the time or just every so often in 10-15 minute bursts? Will the engine be running faster than an idle?
2)What is the amperage of each light? If you don't know the amperage, divide the bulb wattage by 12 (volts) to get the amps (ex.- a 60 Watt bulb pulls 5 amps on a 12 volt system).
3)What is the amperage rating of your stock alternator?
4)If you just want to run the KC's for a few minutes at a time you may not need a bigger alternator. If that is the case, what is the amp-hour rating of your battery? Make sure you get the amp-hour rating and not the CCA or cold cranking amps.
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
I have just been really busy and out of town for the weekend. I appreciate your reply and I assure you it is not in vain. As soon as I find the time to get the information you mentioned, I assure you i will be in touch. Thanks a bunch
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 481
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, CO
Okay. Here is what I have been able to get so far...
Basically, I will be using my KCs for night time four wheeling. At times, this may include using 3 through 6 of the KC's at a time. There will be on in reverse that will be used sparingly.
They will not be used in idle
Five of the nights (4 forward, one reverse) use 8.3 amps each.
The other two forward lights use 14 amps each. These two will be on more than the other five.
I do not know how to get the amp rating for my alternator. All I know is it is a stock alternator (Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan)
As for the batter, all I can find are CA and CCA. The battery is a Die Hard RangeHandler. The CCA is 900 and the CA is 1000 amps.
It has a Reserve Capacity of 150 mins
Basically, I will be using my KCs for night time four wheeling. At times, this may include using 3 through 6 of the KC's at a time. There will be on in reverse that will be used sparingly.
They will not be used in idle
Five of the nights (4 forward, one reverse) use 8.3 amps each.
The other two forward lights use 14 amps each. These two will be on more than the other five.
I do not know how to get the amp rating for my alternator. All I know is it is a stock alternator (Side Terminal, Internal Regulator, External Fan)
As for the batter, all I can find are CA and CCA. The battery is a Die Hard RangeHandler. The CCA is 900 and the CA is 1000 amps.
It has a Reserve Capacity of 150 mins
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 0
From: Northern Kentucky
Well, you have a pretty big battery in there so I think you are fairly covered there. If all else fails try calling up a few parts places and see what size alternators they sell for your year of truck. I bet you are going to find that it is between a 95 and a 130amp ALT. More than likely this will probably be suffcient to run the KC's when offroading, if not much else is running ( ie a stereo system).
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Richarson, TX
A quick comment on batteries. There are three different pieces of information that are available on most auto batteries. The CA-Cranking Amps, CCA- Cold Cranking Amps, and the AH- Amp-Hour rating.
The CA and CCA ratings only indicate how many amps the battery will deliver for 5-20 seconds in a starting or near short circut situation. This capacity is mostly a function of the construction of the battery, the wetted surface area of the plates, etc. A bigger CCA rating does not really mean that you have a bigger battery. With the proper construction, a very small battery could start your truck but only have enough stored energy to run your headlights for 15 minutes. If you have trouble starting your truck in cold weather you want a big CCA. Usually, a good estimate is about 1 CCA for each cubic inch of displacement plus 100 CCA. A classic 289 CI Mustang would start just fine with a batttery of 400 CCA. Because a battery is a chemical reaction, the capacity is very dependant upon temperature. That explains the differences between the CA and CCA ratings. I could be wrong, but I believe that the CCA rating is for 30 F, and the CA rating is for 70 degrees F.
The AH- Amp Hour rating is a measure of stored energy in the battery. A rating of 90 AH as a "rule of thumb" is supposed to indicate that the battery can deliver 90 amps for 1 hour. Don't try the one hour test, it is pretty rough on the battery. It really means the battery is designed to deliver 9 amps for 10 hours while the voltage stays above a set valve - I think it is 11-11.5 volts. If you want to leave your headlights on for hours without killing your battery, you want a large AH rating. If your truck takes 25 tries to start, you will also need a large AH rating. Nowdays it is kind of rare to see the AH rating on top of the battery, you usually have to look for it on a tag or in a book.
Don't let those Wal-mart clerks tell you that the only size guide to a battery is the CCA rating. The CCA rating is a short term delivery rating, the AH rating is the energy storeage rating.
The CA and CCA ratings only indicate how many amps the battery will deliver for 5-20 seconds in a starting or near short circut situation. This capacity is mostly a function of the construction of the battery, the wetted surface area of the plates, etc. A bigger CCA rating does not really mean that you have a bigger battery. With the proper construction, a very small battery could start your truck but only have enough stored energy to run your headlights for 15 minutes. If you have trouble starting your truck in cold weather you want a big CCA. Usually, a good estimate is about 1 CCA for each cubic inch of displacement plus 100 CCA. A classic 289 CI Mustang would start just fine with a batttery of 400 CCA. Because a battery is a chemical reaction, the capacity is very dependant upon temperature. That explains the differences between the CA and CCA ratings. I could be wrong, but I believe that the CCA rating is for 30 F, and the CA rating is for 70 degrees F.
The AH- Amp Hour rating is a measure of stored energy in the battery. A rating of 90 AH as a "rule of thumb" is supposed to indicate that the battery can deliver 90 amps for 1 hour. Don't try the one hour test, it is pretty rough on the battery. It really means the battery is designed to deliver 9 amps for 10 hours while the voltage stays above a set valve - I think it is 11-11.5 volts. If you want to leave your headlights on for hours without killing your battery, you want a large AH rating. If your truck takes 25 tries to start, you will also need a large AH rating. Nowdays it is kind of rare to see the AH rating on top of the battery, you usually have to look for it on a tag or in a book.
Don't let those Wal-mart clerks tell you that the only size guide to a battery is the CCA rating. The CCA rating is a short term delivery rating, the AH rating is the energy storeage rating.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Richarson, TX
The Ford dealer told me your truck only came with a 95 amp alternator. A local parts store told me your truck could have either a 95 or an optional 130 amp alternator. The amperage used to be stamped on the top or front of the alternator case take a look and see - sometimes it is behind the mounting bracket. You need to find out what you have.
Here is my guess at the normal, electrical load on your truck. The biggest unknown (guess) is the computer/ignition/fuel pump. Add 15 amps to the number below if you have an electric fuel pump. AC clutch -10A, Heater/AC fan -20A, Stock radio -10A, Dash gages/lights -5A, Marker lights -12A, Headlights -18A, Ignition/computer -10A. These numbers are probably a bit high but it is better to be conservative. The total comes to 85 amps. If you turn the radio, the fan, and the AC off, you bring the load down to 45 amps.
You want to add 2 KC's at 14 = 28A and 4 KC's at 8.3 = 33.2A and 1 Reverse at 8.3A. Ignore the MSG ignition, it probably won't add over 2 amps. Total light amperage is 69.5 amps. Total forward lights is 61.2 amps.
If you want to run the full gonzo light package with the radio and AC on ( 85 + 69.5) it looks like you need an aftermarket 160 Amp (or larger) alternator. If you can stand to run with no AC, no fan, and no radio you can run four KC's and be ok (45 +28 +16.6 = 90). If you have the 130A alternator you can run those same 4 four lights with the AC and radio just fine. Add the numbers up and play with them and see what is acceptable to you.
I wouldn't do it very often but you can probably draw 30 amps over the alternator rating (the battery will make up the overage) for 15-20 minutes without damaging anything. After that, the battery will have to have time (30 min) to charge back up with a light load (You can probably overdraw more amps and for longer but it will shorten the life of the battery). Some other stuff - The alternator will not make full power at idle and stay cool. The 95 or 130 amps will be made around 2000 rpm and higher. Aftermarket pulleys used for "increasing horsepower" will reduce your alternator power.
If you want an aftermarket 160-180 Amp alternator try looking at adds in the Truckin' magazine or Sport Truck or one of those. Some of the car stereo nuts add bigger alternators to power the bass.
I don't really know what equipment is on your truck. I'm an Electrical Engineer and a gearhead so I can make very good guesses, but I am not familiar with the 1990's Ford trucks computer/ignition systems. If you see a number that doesn't look right that is why. But these should be very close. Use your head and be conservative. Good Luck
Here is my guess at the normal, electrical load on your truck. The biggest unknown (guess) is the computer/ignition/fuel pump. Add 15 amps to the number below if you have an electric fuel pump. AC clutch -10A, Heater/AC fan -20A, Stock radio -10A, Dash gages/lights -5A, Marker lights -12A, Headlights -18A, Ignition/computer -10A. These numbers are probably a bit high but it is better to be conservative. The total comes to 85 amps. If you turn the radio, the fan, and the AC off, you bring the load down to 45 amps.
You want to add 2 KC's at 14 = 28A and 4 KC's at 8.3 = 33.2A and 1 Reverse at 8.3A. Ignore the MSG ignition, it probably won't add over 2 amps. Total light amperage is 69.5 amps. Total forward lights is 61.2 amps.
If you want to run the full gonzo light package with the radio and AC on ( 85 + 69.5) it looks like you need an aftermarket 160 Amp (or larger) alternator. If you can stand to run with no AC, no fan, and no radio you can run four KC's and be ok (45 +28 +16.6 = 90). If you have the 130A alternator you can run those same 4 four lights with the AC and radio just fine. Add the numbers up and play with them and see what is acceptable to you.
I wouldn't do it very often but you can probably draw 30 amps over the alternator rating (the battery will make up the overage) for 15-20 minutes without damaging anything. After that, the battery will have to have time (30 min) to charge back up with a light load (You can probably overdraw more amps and for longer but it will shorten the life of the battery). Some other stuff - The alternator will not make full power at idle and stay cool. The 95 or 130 amps will be made around 2000 rpm and higher. Aftermarket pulleys used for "increasing horsepower" will reduce your alternator power.
If you want an aftermarket 160-180 Amp alternator try looking at adds in the Truckin' magazine or Sport Truck or one of those. Some of the car stereo nuts add bigger alternators to power the bass.
I don't really know what equipment is on your truck. I'm an Electrical Engineer and a gearhead so I can make very good guesses, but I am not familiar with the 1990's Ford trucks computer/ignition systems. If you see a number that doesn't look right that is why. But these should be very close. Use your head and be conservative. Good Luck
Senior Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
From: Richarson, TX
Urban Cowboy,
If you decide that you want one, I found a few contacts in a magazine for folks who make or sell high output alternators. I don't know anything about these companies - just passing along some addresses.
Wrangler NW Power Products, Portland Oregon, 800-962-2616 www.wranglernw.com
The Mechanical Man, Glendora Calif., 888-632-4626, www.mechman.com
Powermaster - sold thru Truck Performance Center, Inc, Laguna Hills, CA., 949-598-8285, www.truckperformance.com
Your local car stereo shop can probably recommend some others. Good Luck
If you decide that you want one, I found a few contacts in a magazine for folks who make or sell high output alternators. I don't know anything about these companies - just passing along some addresses.
Wrangler NW Power Products, Portland Oregon, 800-962-2616 www.wranglernw.com
The Mechanical Man, Glendora Calif., 888-632-4626, www.mechman.com
Powermaster - sold thru Truck Performance Center, Inc, Laguna Hills, CA., 949-598-8285, www.truckperformance.com
Your local car stereo shop can probably recommend some others. Good Luck