weird window switch issue
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: North Carolina
weird window switch issue
I have a 2005 extended cab.
From sometime now i can not operate the rear passenger side window from the drivers seat master control
The window works just fine if i try it from its own switch so i assumed the issue was on the master switch. I removed it, took it apart cleaned it, etc and it never worked.
Last week i bought a new one and guess what? The new one also can not control the rear pass window!
So window is ok, both switches are ok, what else can be wrong?
From sometime now i can not operate the rear passenger side window from the drivers seat master control
The window works just fine if i try it from its own switch so i assumed the issue was on the master switch. I removed it, took it apart cleaned it, etc and it never worked.
Last week i bought a new one and guess what? The new one also can not control the rear pass window!
So window is ok, both switches are ok, what else can be wrong?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,581
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From: Corona, Crazyfornia
Probably a frayed/pinched wire where it goes from the door post to the door. I would suspect the driver door since it get used the most.
But that is just a guess, but that is where I would start.
But that is just a guess, but that is where I would start.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 6,677
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From: Houston and College Station, TX
Have you taken your driver door apart to put in a new speaker or anything? Maybe taken the door sills off in order to run amplifier wires? I opened this thread thinking you had the same problem as I did, but a new master switch was it for me. I have to believe it's relatively simple wiring, so there's only so many things it can be.
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: North Carolina
Yes i have taken the door off more times that i would have liked to, however the issue was there since i bought the truck
Perhaps the previous owner pinched some wire when installing speakers or something.
Will take a look at that whenever i have to remove my door again
Perhaps the previous owner pinched some wire when installing speakers or something.
Will take a look at that whenever i have to remove my door again
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
The rear door switch works up and down ?
- Driver's side neither direction works ?
Are you testing with the door open or closed ?
- Either door, driver's or rear passenger.
The reason I ask, is +VDC is to the switch ( through the lock switch ) direct to the rear switch.
The ground is through the switch contacts ( at rest ) on the driver's switch to the rear switch.
This makes 3 wires, 2 that are ground ( when the driver's switch is at rest ) and +VDC ( when the driver's switch has the windows unlocked ) to the rear switch.
1. If the +VDC wire were having a problem, the rear switch would no nothing ( same as if the lock as on on the driver's switch ).
2. If the ground wire ( driver's side switch at rest ) on the one of the 2 were out, the rear switch would only work in one direction.
Do you know if the rear door wiring was changed for some reason ?
The pinched SWAG might have some legs to it.
If you unplug the driver's side switch, does the rear switch operate the window in either direction ?
- For the driver's side to operate both wires ( refered to as ground, at rest, above ) need to be good for the window to travel in either direction.
- Driver's side neither direction works ?
Are you testing with the door open or closed ?
- Either door, driver's or rear passenger.
The reason I ask, is +VDC is to the switch ( through the lock switch ) direct to the rear switch.
The ground is through the switch contacts ( at rest ) on the driver's switch to the rear switch.
This makes 3 wires, 2 that are ground ( when the driver's switch is at rest ) and +VDC ( when the driver's switch has the windows unlocked ) to the rear switch.
1. If the +VDC wire were having a problem, the rear switch would no nothing ( same as if the lock as on on the driver's switch ).
2. If the ground wire ( driver's side switch at rest ) on the one of the 2 were out, the rear switch would only work in one direction.
Do you know if the rear door wiring was changed for some reason ?
The pinched SWAG might have some legs to it.
If you unplug the driver's side switch, does the rear switch operate the window in either direction ?
- For the driver's side to operate both wires ( refered to as ground, at rest, above ) need to be good for the window to travel in either direction.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 59
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From: North Carolina
The rear door switch works up and down ?
- Driver's side neither direction works ?
Are you testing with the door open or closed ?
- Either door, driver's or rear passenger.
The reason I ask, is +VDC is to the switch ( through the lock switch ) direct to the rear switch.
The ground is through the switch contacts ( at rest ) on the driver's switch to the rear switch.
This makes 3 wires, 2 that are ground ( when the driver's switch is at rest ) and +VDC ( when the driver's switch has the windows unlocked ) to the rear switch.
1. If the +VDC wire were having a problem, the rear switch would no nothing ( same as if the lock as on on the driver's switch ).
2. If the ground wire ( driver's side switch at rest ) on the one of the 2 were out, the rear switch would only work in one direction.
Do you know if the rear door wiring was changed for some reason ?
The pinched SWAG might have some legs to it.
If you unplug the driver's side switch, does the rear switch operate the window in either direction ?
- For the driver's side to operate both wires ( refered to as ground, at rest, above ) need to be good for the window to travel in either direction.
- Driver's side neither direction works ?
Are you testing with the door open or closed ?
- Either door, driver's or rear passenger.
The reason I ask, is +VDC is to the switch ( through the lock switch ) direct to the rear switch.
The ground is through the switch contacts ( at rest ) on the driver's switch to the rear switch.
This makes 3 wires, 2 that are ground ( when the driver's switch is at rest ) and +VDC ( when the driver's switch has the windows unlocked ) to the rear switch.
1. If the +VDC wire were having a problem, the rear switch would no nothing ( same as if the lock as on on the driver's switch ).
2. If the ground wire ( driver's side switch at rest ) on the one of the 2 were out, the rear switch would only work in one direction.
Do you know if the rear door wiring was changed for some reason ?
The pinched SWAG might have some legs to it.
If you unplug the driver's side switch, does the rear switch operate the window in either direction ?
- For the driver's side to operate both wires ( refered to as ground, at rest, above ) need to be good for the window to travel in either direction.
Wow great info here, so good that i had to go out and test the switch at 11 pm here!
anyways this is whats happening
1. Rear window switch working in both directions regardless if the rear or front door are opened or closed, this as long as the lock switch on the drivers side is unlocked
2. If the drivers side lock switch is locked rear window does not work in either direction
3. took off the driver switch and disconnected the harness and the rear window switch does not work in either direction (nor does any of the other windows)
As far as i know the rear window wiring has not been modified, when i got the truck the window motor was shot and i replaced it, I didn't noticed any modifications to the wiring
Based on this, what would be your recommendation?
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Time to test the driver's side switch operation, at the passenger window switch connector.
Diagram :
Unplug the rear passenger switch, you will be metering the connector itself.
1. Test the Yellow w/ light green stripe wire to a known good ground
- Don't assume the door hinge is good. This should be + VDC from your symptom descriptions.
2. Meter leads on Yellow / black stripe wire & Red w/ black stripe wire.
You don't need to move them, make sure they are either in the back of the connector if the probes are small enough to get in there, or you might need to scotch lock a wire on and use alligators clips ( assume you don't have wire piercing clips - if you do those will be the best to use ).
2.1. Driver side "at rest" should be 0 VDC.
2.2. Press driver's side switch up position should have + VDC if the red meter lead is on the red w/ back stripe wire, else is will show as - VDC ( i.e. - 12.6 ), as you are using the + side of the battery as reference ( not an issue ).
2.3 Press driver's side switch down position should have the reverse polarity as the test in 2.2 ( i.e. if it was + VDC, now it will show - VDC ).
If this tests out correctly, next is to test the rear passenger switch
Could be the switch "at rest" is having the issue, and either side of it is not completing the circuit from the driver's side window to the motor ( SWAG there ).
BTW : Never trust a place that takes back electrical items. If the last guy smoked it and returned it you will be chasing your tail for a long time due to having a "new switch".
Diagram :
Unplug the rear passenger switch, you will be metering the connector itself.
1. Test the Yellow w/ light green stripe wire to a known good ground
- Don't assume the door hinge is good. This should be + VDC from your symptom descriptions.
2. Meter leads on Yellow / black stripe wire & Red w/ black stripe wire.
You don't need to move them, make sure they are either in the back of the connector if the probes are small enough to get in there, or you might need to scotch lock a wire on and use alligators clips ( assume you don't have wire piercing clips - if you do those will be the best to use ).
2.1. Driver side "at rest" should be 0 VDC.
2.2. Press driver's side switch up position should have + VDC if the red meter lead is on the red w/ back stripe wire, else is will show as - VDC ( i.e. - 12.6 ), as you are using the + side of the battery as reference ( not an issue ).
2.3 Press driver's side switch down position should have the reverse polarity as the test in 2.2 ( i.e. if it was + VDC, now it will show - VDC ).
If this tests out correctly, next is to test the rear passenger switch
Could be the switch "at rest" is having the issue, and either side of it is not completing the circuit from the driver's side window to the motor ( SWAG there ).
BTW : Never trust a place that takes back electrical items. If the last guy smoked it and returned it you will be chasing your tail for a long time due to having a "new switch".