I've got radios, fog lights, etc, attached directly to my battery. It looks like a cob job. It really does, and it's been bothering me for quite a long time.

Anyhow, I've searched on Google for a solution, but I am probably looking for the wrong thing.

What I am trying to do is the following in the picture:



It doesn't have to be 100 amp... but more the merry. But I'd like to have at least 6 lugs to attach to.

Of course, the accessories are fused as well... can't have enough of those things.

I was thinking of making something like this from heavy duty copper busbar, and enclose it in a weather tight box somehow. But I'd prefer pre-manufactured versus a homemade creation.

 

Its funny, I just posted a question exactly like this on the other forum. I have a few things attached to the battery as well, and now am adding my retro's and some other HID lights and theres no more room on the battery. Was hoping someone has a good idea for some sort of power point under the hood. Thae only thing I could think of was the fuse blocks for stereo systems, but they dont have multiple outputs. Ill definitely be watching this thread for any ideas. Good luck.

 

Just found this listed in another forum. Check it out maybe it will workhttp://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13646070664236

 

Check out this thread there are some good ideas.http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...44442042,d.dmg

 

Also check out west marine. They have a bunch that look like they would work.

 

That Tessco is exactly what I want, but bigger current... lol I need at least 80 amps... or twice that and it would be ideal.

I poked around on West Marine... they got some nifty 120v ideas when I do my inverter project someday...

 

Sounds what you are looking for is the Bluesea ST Fuse block. Westmarine usually carries this brand if you want to see it in person.

They come as 6 or 12 circuit and with or without the ground bus in them.
100A per bus / max 30A per circuit.
- If you need more than 30A per circuit you should be going with a Maxifuse or ANL fuse system.

Make sure you do not get the independent circuit version, that is just a common block of in / out fuse holders ( i.e. no bus ).

http://www.bluesea.com/products/cate...locks/ST_Blade

This is what bluesea has on their web site for the 12 circuit w/ ground bus .

 

Hmmm... that's exactly what I'm looking for... saweet!

Thank you sir!

I've got a Westmarine store pretty close to me... I'll go check it out.

 

I actually bought this yesterday, and was going to post a pic of it for you. Yeah you said you need a 100 amp box and this is rated for 100 amp max for the box. I wish the wiring would look as neat as in his pics, but I dont think those pics are under the hood of a truck. Looks like a nice board on a boat.I guess as long as I mount this close to the battery I dont need to fuse the incoming power line. Any ideas what size wire torun from battery to block. Only plan on using it for aux lighting and my retros. Would #8 do the trick for power and ground.

 

Yes you do need a fuse between the battery and the fuse panel.
- You don't want the lug or the hot side of a fuse slot to be a direct connection to the battery in case of a short.

If you are going to fuse for a full 100A, you would be looking at a 4 AWG wire size as long as it is automotive rated wire ( 105* not 90* wire from Home Depot ).
If you are going with THHN wire from HD, you will need to use 2 AWG wire.
8 AWG 105* automotive wire is good to 40A in an install this short.

Do you have ( or access to ) hipress crimps for going this large ?

- My opinion of the hammer crimp anvils; I don't care for them. Others use them a lot ( think it is the result of not wanting to spend $200.00 on the correct tool ). Results of being the son of an electrician.

The install can look like this on a truck, if you take your time placing it and mount it to 1/4" ABS plastic backing.
I even went to the point of cutting in slots for the zip ties so they did not move on my aux fuse panel install.
- Use the handle of a small screw driver to wrap the wire around to build the start of the curve.

If you are doing Aux lighting and HID retro fits, this is overkill.

Set of 120W Aux lamps is 20A ( 19.x ) which would put the fuse at 25A ( actual draw is 80% of fuse size ).

This leaves 75A for the HID retro fit kit and other (? )

 

I'm basically just looking for more room to hook up the lights and things to get them off the battery lug. I have some wire from my days of doing car stereo amps that I was going to use to feed the panel. I figured if its a foot away from the panel no need to fuse it. The wire from the battery to the alternator isn't fused and is much longer. The reason I say it cant be that neat is your dealing with a much more cramped space than where ever you have that block in the picture.

 

Most of the aux lights come with inline fuses so I would just match whatever came with the lights when I get rid of the inlines.

 

The battery to the alternator is fused with fusible links.

2006 :


Nothing should every be left to create an unprotected / high resistance short to ground.

Not sure what you had left over from your install days, if it is 8 AWG 105* automotive wire, that is good for no more than 40A.

The picture:
The block is 3-3/8" wide by 6-1/2" long. The required amount to have it look like that would be 5" x 6-1/2" long.
More than enough room to have it handing off the plastic trim in from the of washer reservoir on a spring nut on the plastic.
- My CenTech fuse panel is there, and there is quite a bit of room around it for the 90* turn into the side, and service loop to remove it for additions. Not the easiest for quick change fuses. Then again fuses should not be thought of as quick change, that points to a problem with the installation.

Don't know what you have for additional items. If the inline fuse, for a given item is correctly sized, it should be a direct replacement.

 

What size is the wire feeding the factory fuse box.

 

Can you post a pic of your fuse block. What about the size of the ground wire feeding the block.