I used both keys today, no problems. But this evening I replaced the relays with new parts before I saw your post. If my regular key acts up during the programming then this won't work will it??

 

That is correct. Both keys must be functioning at the time you attempt to program the third.

 

I just read some F150 has pats in cluster and my odometer hasn't worked in months. I took it apart and re-soldered and it worked good for odometer for a few weeks to a month.

Would an instrument cluster need to be flashed for a 2001? What years interchange?

 

The cluster was part of the PATS system on 99-03 F150s (including 04 Heritage). You MUST reprogram the PATS system on any cluster swap on these trucks.

Odometer blackout is a common, separate issue. Numerous posts and articles about that one.

 

Last 2 days have used my everyday key and no issues (knock on wood) thusfar after changing the 2 relays with new ones. fuel pump and pcm I believe.

 

Is blackout mean no reading? I tried the re-solder and it worked for a few weeks. Now it doesn't come on at all,

 

Hit train tracks and odometer came on briefly first time in months.

 

Ok so I changed a license plate and blew a fuse so I replaced the fuse got in the truck try to start it but it's only cranking.. so I sprayed starting fluid in the Breather and still no response out of the motor. So I check the plug to see if there was fire and there was no fire. Well after looking at it I realized the engine light was not coming on when key was on on position. I have checked all fuses and relays and grounds and still not getting any response. I took off my powertrain control modular and looked inside it wasn't Burt so I put it back on and it fired up..but after I turned it off its back to no crank no fire

 

powertrain control modular relay? Your post is confusing.

 

Sry I was just reading everyone's comments.. All the relays are good I've replaced them twice now just to double check.. There is power going to the relays and to the PCM ...I wonder if the PMC could still be bad even if it looks good... Or if there is something else I'm missing

 

Glad I found this thread. Got a 2002 F150 w/ V6 4.2L engine. Working fine. Stopped it about 300 yards from the house to grab a beer. Would crank strong but not start. Was dark and cold so just decided to leave it there and wait for morning. Walked home, drank the beer, and did some research. Spent some time reading up and now I have a better idea what tools to take down the street and what to look for.

Thanks!

Will update this post when I get it figured out or have any specific questions.

 

Towed back to the house
had already tried to reset the fuel pump shut-off switch. When I pressed it, it wouldnt move. I think that means that it didn't need to be reset. Is that correct? The truck didn't take any kind of bump. I suppose I could bypass that too

Got a new relay for the fuel pump. Played "Swap the Relays" and no change in anything.
Tried the other key. No change
Checked applicable fuses for fuel, PCM and fuel injection. All good. Haven't pulled every fuse.
Neighbor came by and listened for the fuel pump when I turned the ignition - didn't hear it. Banged on the gas tank a few times.
Pulled the relay, bypassed it (got a tiny spark when touching the wire to the relay socket so the circuit is trying to pull a load and not just an open circuit) and no fuel pump. Banged on it some more.
Checked the schraeder valve - no pressure on the fuel rail.
Based on the above, i feel pretty confident saying that I at least have a jammed up pump.

Truck has about 170K on it.

 

Yes.

Don't bother, a waste of time. There's less than handful that can cause your issue.

If the pump didn't run, then no fuel pressure is expected. If you cannot hear the pump when listening closely, it probably didn't run.

Probably, but there is one additional check you can do it increase the level of certainty.

Access the wiring plug at the inertia switch. Connect your test light or voltmeter between the PINK/BLACK wire and ground. Turn the key to RUN (only) while observing the meter or lamp. It should show full battery voltage or light up fully for 2-3 seconds so as to prime a properly operating pump.

This splits the circuit in half so you can identify WHERE to focus, whether downstream at the pump or back upstream in the control electrical system.

 

I'll do that ASAP. Thanks.
Haven't changed a fuel pump in 15+ years. Last one was on a Cimmaron Cadillac. What a strange car that was. People joked about it, but I actually liked it.

 

What is the THEFT light doing when you are trying to start it? It might be a PATS issue.