battery / electrical issue driving me nuts...help

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  #46  
Old 10-08-2012, 12:31 PM
papa tiger's Avatar
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The misses is having a battery discharge problem. New battery, when display is set on volt meter it charges to a max of 15volts and when the key is turned of it will lower until 12.3 volts over 10 minutes then hold that voltage for a 4 hour test. I did find the right side doors unlocked and the passenger side door won't electrically lock. I believe she shut off motor left the vehicle hit the key fob to lock it and went into work. The battery saver may have stayed on due to the car being partially locked, killing the battery? Anyone with this problem. Vehicle is equipped with theft protection but it showed no command from them? She does usually only drive the car about 8 miles a day. I offer to use it more often but it is her baby. Going after that pesky passenger door lock motor is a pita. It is a 2007 out of warranty. It may be a ground cause I can hear it trying to lock. LOL
 

Last edited by papa tiger; 10-08-2012 at 12:38 PM.
  #47  
Old 10-09-2012, 05:25 AM
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=SSCULLY;4905633]OK, let go with 3 years later then...2003.

I'll put up the quality of the Motorcraft battery from the factory in my 2006 against a pre 2003 GNB battery. From the info floating around today, this is a JCI battery.
- I am replacing it based upon Murphy's law, not any issues, so the quality is out there since GNB was sold. I am not the only person on the face of the earth to get this type of time.
Mine is worst yet, most of the 6+ years of its life have been with 80% city driving.
Steve, you've been around here for awhile, do you remember a # of guys complaining about battery problems that Ford would pronounce perfectly fine about 4 or 4 times in a row before they'd admit that it was bad (JUST before the owner was about to go postal on 'em) ? The problem was not only crappy batteries but the bogus "conductance tester that is now standard fare for battery testing". You know I not only test my batteries regularly but boost 'em back to the top if they are "drooping". I replaced the battery in my '04 at about 5 years because I don't drive it a lot and I didn't want to be stranded. No battery ever is let to get below 12.3V in any of my vehicles as long as they will hold that. My truck still started pretty well but when replaced, it would only hold12V even after being "Smart charged". I frankly was amazed to get that long out of it even the way I care for my batteries, though it was about to take the old "dirt nap" when replaced. MANY have not done near that well. You have been very lucky with yours for a JC.

I worked in Ford dealerships (also L/M) for many years and my brother also did. I saw 1st hand the difference between GNB and JC over and over again. My brother has a Motorcraft in his boat that was taken from a wreck (no real damage) that is over 11 years old. He was having some electrical deficiency problems so I checked it for him about 2 weeks ago. The Motorcraft (built by GNB, circle with GNB on the bottom) read 12.7V and the Kirkland (made by JC that is less than 2 years old) was showing about .4V. Nuff said.
 
  #48  
Old 10-26-2012, 02:47 PM
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When all else has failed look for corrosion, corrosion in the battery cables and power circuits to the alternator and starter. A cable in an open condition is a corroded cable or a fuse link is blown. Sometimes/mosttimes removing the assemblies is the best way to test them and uncover the corrosion. Many times a corroded condition can carry voltage but not high current while the voltage will drop under load due to inability to carry high current.
 



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