Curious about a fuse
Curious about a fuse
Can anyone tell me what fuse location 12 "Rear Auxiliary Power Point" is for on a 2000 F150 4.6 Supercab in the engine compartment fuse box? There's no fuse in there. Wondering if it was an option for the truck or if its just a spot that's there for another vehicle (using the same distribution box for multiple vehicles). If its an option for this truck I wouldn't mind figuring out how to add it to mine. Another 12v source would be nice. Thanks!
Cannot recall if the '00 SCab had the rear power point. Did you check both C pillars ( by the seat belt ) for a DC power outlet ?
I know the '01 SuperCrew had one back there ( passenger side if I recall correctly )
The fuse panel was only a single version, used for all trim levels and equipment trucks. The wiring to a given slot is not installed, if it is not on the truck you have.
I know the '01 SuperCrew had one back there ( passenger side if I recall correctly )
The fuse panel was only a single version, used for all trim levels and equipment trucks. The wiring to a given slot is not installed, if it is not on the truck you have.
Well, no wiring to that fuse, so I guess it's just for anther vehicle. Got another question, though. Was fixing the intermittent odometer today and found a plug that goes nowhere behind the light switch. Thought it was for fog lights, but I don't have fog lights and, from what I can tell, I don't have the wiring for fog lights. I have the fuse in the cab box, but no fuse and no wiring for the fuse in the engine compartment. Also, no plugs under the front of the truck for the lights. Anyway, here are a couple of pictures of the plug in question.


Ok, from what I can tell from the manual in the sticky it appears to be WPT-181 which has 4 possibilities. They are adjustable pedals, moon roof/sun roof, reverse park aid, and seat lumbar. Any idea on which it is in this truck?
Moon roof controls were on the over head counsel....
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I think it was for something on an expedition. Most likely reverse parking aid, if I were to guess. Same wiring for multiple vehicles again. Wonder if it could be tapped into to use for something else...
Keep in mind the pigtail catalog gives the typical usage of the connectors, it is not a full listing of what a given connector is for.
It would be for the power pedal switch. The connector that the fog lamp switch wiring is on should already be plugged in ( inline connector ).

Not all trucks have the complete wiring in them, but if you have the pwoer pedal connector, you might want to take a closer look for the fog lamps ( if you want to install them ). The ends would be tapped against the headlamp wiring harness up high.
It would be for the power pedal switch. The connector that the fog lamp switch wiring is on should already be plugged in ( inline connector ).

Not all trucks have the complete wiring in them, but if you have the pwoer pedal connector, you might want to take a closer look for the fog lamps ( if you want to install them ). The ends would be tapped against the headlamp wiring harness up high.
Keep in mind the pigtail catalog gives the typical usage of the connectors, it is not a full listing of what a given connector is for.
It would be for the power pedal switch. The connector that the fog lamp switch wiring is on should already be plugged in ( inline connector ).

Not all trucks have the complete wiring in them, but if you have the pwoer pedal connector, you might want to take a closer look for the fog lamps ( if you want to install them ). The ends would be tapped against the headlamp wiring harness up high.
It would be for the power pedal switch. The connector that the fog lamp switch wiring is on should already be plugged in ( inline connector ).

Not all trucks have the complete wiring in them, but if you have the pwoer pedal connector, you might want to take a closer look for the fog lamps ( if you want to install them ). The ends would be tapped against the headlamp wiring harness up high.
This shows the modification for the fog lamp mod ( modify the plastic ramp so they will pull out in the park position ), ignore the red line and text.

If you found BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse #9 to be empty on both sides, then you confirmed that you do not have the wiring.
As you are thinking, it is easy enough to wire the fog lamp circuit from the factory switch to an external relay ( the yellow wire ).

If you found BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse #9 to be empty on both sides, then you confirmed that you do not have the wiring.
As you are thinking, it is easy enough to wire the fog lamp circuit from the factory switch to an external relay ( the yellow wire ).
This shows the modification for the fog lamp mod ( modify the plastic ramp so they will pull out in the park position ), ignore the red line and text.

If you found BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse #9 to be empty on both sides, then you confirmed that you do not have the wiring.
As you are thinking, it is easy enough to wire the fog lamp circuit from the factory switch to an external relay ( the yellow wire ).

If you found BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, engine compartment fuse panel ) fuse #9 to be empty on both sides, then you confirmed that you do not have the wiring.
As you are thinking, it is easy enough to wire the fog lamp circuit from the factory switch to an external relay ( the yellow wire ).
Wait, I see what's going on in that schematic. Ugh... I had to look at it a little closer. Unfortunately, it doesn't really help because since I don't have the wiring for the fogs, the color coding doesn't help. Once I get the switch, all I'll have to go by is the pins on the back of it and I'll have to use my own wiring, which will basically be 2 wires and the switch will just cut the power in and out. I may or may not go with a relay. I guess that would depend on whether it's recommended or not (I'm guessing it probably is).
Also, I apologize if I'm getting confusing. Just got off work and I'm dead tired.
Also, I apologize if I'm getting confusing. Just got off work and I'm dead tired.
For the cost, go with a Carling Tech switch, you will be money ahead and be able to install it for what ever you want ( fogs on with park or low beam only ) and save about 60.00 in the process.
You will need a relay regardless of which switch you go with. You might get away with some of the LED aux lamps on a 20A carling Tech switch, but you really go with the relay anyway.
I have self contained Trail tech HID lamps on my ZG-1000, the switch is rated for the amp draw of the ballast. If I try to run them direct, the ballast will not ignite ( current in rush ), if I install a 10 A relay they work fine all day long.
- AMP draw of the lamps compared to the switch is not everything.
You will need a relay regardless of which switch you go with. You might get away with some of the LED aux lamps on a 20A carling Tech switch, but you really go with the relay anyway.
I have self contained Trail tech HID lamps on my ZG-1000, the switch is rated for the amp draw of the ballast. If I try to run them direct, the ballast will not ignite ( current in rush ), if I install a 10 A relay they work fine all day long.
- AMP draw of the lamps compared to the switch is not everything.



