1998 - 128K mi - Both Temp and Oil Gage jump
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Near seattle
1998 - 128K mi - Both Temp and Oil Gage jump
Hello Ford F150 online! I have a 1998 Extended Cab 4x4 with 4.6L. It's been sitting for about three years and rarely started or run. We're up here in Seattle where things get damp and corroded if not cared for. I changed the oil, replaced plugs and wires, flushed and refilled cooling system.
Both before and after this "minor tune-up", after I run the engine about 3 minutes, both the temp gage and the oil gage jump to max simultaneuosly. This is not intermittent. It happens every time (so far).
Any ideas? I figured if it was the sending units, it might be one or the other, but simultaneous? Are these on some common circuit?
Many thanks for any help. -DaVinci
Both before and after this "minor tune-up", after I run the engine about 3 minutes, both the temp gage and the oil gage jump to max simultaneuosly. This is not intermittent. It happens every time (so far).
Any ideas? I figured if it was the sending units, it might be one or the other, but simultaneous? Are these on some common circuit?
Many thanks for any help. -DaVinci
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Is it only those 2 gauges that are having the issue ?
There is not an individual ground for each gauge.
1. Oil pressure gauge is closing a switch to ground when the oil pressure is correct ( it is open or close only, no other option ) and this is connected to the solid state control on the cluster. the gauge is driven by the solid state control ( both sides of the gauge ).
2. The Engine temp gauge is connected to the solid state control ( same common as the oil pressure gauge ) on both sides. The engine coolant temperature sending gauge is connected from ground through the variable section to the solid state control. The temp reading is from the solid state control ( non common side ).
The common side for the gauges ( the same trace on the PC board ) is to the engine oil pressure, engine temp, tach, volt meter and fuel gauge ( different solid state controller vs the individual gauges above ).
If you have more than 1 gauge doing the sweep, on your MY this is an indicator of a battery that is very close to dying ( as Bluejay posted ), have the batter load tested.
If the battery test good and/or the other gauges do not have the same issue, it appears that you are having a cluster issue. Could be cold solder joints, if you are handy with a soldering iron you can go looking for them ( similar to the issue with the overhead temp gauge issue -> thread in the technical articles section ).
There is not an individual ground for each gauge.
1. Oil pressure gauge is closing a switch to ground when the oil pressure is correct ( it is open or close only, no other option ) and this is connected to the solid state control on the cluster. the gauge is driven by the solid state control ( both sides of the gauge ).
2. The Engine temp gauge is connected to the solid state control ( same common as the oil pressure gauge ) on both sides. The engine coolant temperature sending gauge is connected from ground through the variable section to the solid state control. The temp reading is from the solid state control ( non common side ).
The common side for the gauges ( the same trace on the PC board ) is to the engine oil pressure, engine temp, tach, volt meter and fuel gauge ( different solid state controller vs the individual gauges above ).
If you have more than 1 gauge doing the sweep, on your MY this is an indicator of a battery that is very close to dying ( as Bluejay posted ), have the batter load tested.
If the battery test good and/or the other gauges do not have the same issue, it appears that you are having a cluster issue. Could be cold solder joints, if you are handy with a soldering iron you can go looking for them ( similar to the issue with the overhead temp gauge issue -> thread in the technical articles section ).