I ran a few more tests... earlier, I tested continuity through just the clockspring (terminals on each side of the clockspring), and there was no resistance (good).

Then I just tried the tests SSCULLY wanted me to do, again. I checked pin 5 to the hot side of fuse 7, and I got a reading of 940 ohms. I'm not sure what I did/didn't do yesterday, but I got the test to work today.

I also tested all of the cruise control switches following the instructions through my HAYNES manual. All of the switches were within range per the book. Now I don't know where to go next....

 

you did unplug and plug stuff back together in the process of testing, so things have changed.

Did you check the contacts in what you unplugged, to see what the condition of them was ?
- Looking for that discolored contact issue when they are part together and creating arcing which builds up a carbon like substance from arc flash over.

 

I did look at the contacts; everything was clean.

I'm going to start working my way back through the firewall tonight, and back into the engine compartment to try and find what is wrong. Since I still have the airbag out, I might try a new coilspring just to be 100% sure that wasn't it.

 

I tried to get my hands on a coilspring tonight, but it will be a few days.

So tonight I thought I would start over. I ran the test that tests the switches (checking resistance through the pins on the servo while hitting buttons). Everything was exactly what the book said it should be.

Then I ran the test that SSCULLY wanted me to do with testing pin 5 against fuse 7. The resistance should be 1050-1100 according to him.

I tested it, and my reading was 95. I'm not exactly sure where this puts me...

The test that the book puts me through tests the voltage from pin 5 to 10 while the key is ON. The voltage is supposed to be same as battery, and it passed that test. This should mean that there is power going through the system. But what does the faulty resistance tell me??

 

You measure 95 ohms with the on button being pressed ?

that sounds like the 1000 ohm resistor in the steering wheel controls is not inline, which means the servo control switch input is the wrong value ( and the servo won't be enabled )

 

Yea I measured it with the ON button pressed. 95 ohms.

That sounds right with the 1000 ohm resistor (from my limited knowledge). I briefly tried to locate it, but I could not find it. From the diagram above, the resistor should be located between the horn and the ON/OFF cluster?

I might be able to try a different cluster just to to try this theory? Let me know if this sounds correct.

 

I would think it is built into the CC switch itself.

 

I got the new controls in today (entire cluster), but it did not fix the problem. Exact same problem... Any other ideas?

 

Just to confirm ( now that every tests ok or has been replaced but does not work.

Back to Post #2, how did you check the fuses ?

1997 lariat 4.6's post jacked me up, tossing in something that is non applicable to your issue.