05 intermittant power window issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 07:21 AM
  #1  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
05 intermittant power window issue

Well it just recently started and I can't for the life of me figure it out so I will turn the issue over to the geniuses in the electrical forum.

My drivers side window will roll up and down fine when its cool out but when the scales tip 95° the window will only move a few inches at a time then stop. After a few seconds of "resting" I can move it another few inches and then repeat until the window is shut.

But if its below that it works just fine, to me it almost seems like the window motor is over heating but none of the other windows are doing that. Is this a sign that the motor is going out or is there something I can do to correct it?
 
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:13 AM
  #2  
SSCULLY's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
I would have to agree, you are seeing a thermal overload condition.

In generic terms this means the motor is doing more work than it was designed for and is still below the fused value, and the motor is shutting off to prevent damage.

If so, there is not much you can do with the motor itself once this starts ( aside from rewinding it ) to fix it. Replacement is usually the only option.

I do not recall an anti jam feature on the motor ( so you cannot cut an arm off ) the window once closed, if you press up will dim the interior lights ( motor trying to close more and having a current draw ). There is a similar feature in the OTD circuit, but this is only when activated, and would only be in the down direction.

You can try taking the motor out and thumping it against the tire to see if the armature is loaded with carbon dust causing this, but be prepared for a motor replacement. Might want to make sure Napa or a dealer has a motor in stock, and you can get there before they close if you have the door apart, when you try the thump condition.
Hair dryer should be able to simulate the temperature, the output temp is in the 50 to 60 * C range, so top end is ~ 140* F.
 
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:15 AM
  #3  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Thanks for the reply that is what I was fearing so I guess its time to just order a new motor and be done with it. I will just avoid rolling the window down until then.
 
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 10:49 AM
  #4  
FF301's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
From: highlands ranch, co
try cleaning the switch contacts first - cheaper and easyer

they are a known problem, use a pencil eraser to "brush" the contacts clean

the switch contacts are to small for the current loading and leave carbon deposits on the contacts i often must push the window button multiple times and then i know it's time to clean them again.
 
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #5  
SSCULLY's Avatar
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 10,511
Likes: 10
From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Originally Posted by FF301
....<snip>...
the switch contacts are to small for the current loading and leave carbon deposits on the contacts....<snip>...
The switch contacts being too small would not cause discoloration.

If this was the case, there would be a 100% failure rate on the switches.

Electrical contact discoloration is caused by the AMP draw being large enough for the electrons to bridge the gap between the contacts ( in either open to close or close to open motion ) ionizing the air between the 2 surfaces, causing an electrical arc ( read into plasma gas and electrical arcs for details on how the ionized air causes this ) .
The electrical arc is what is causing the discoloration of the switch contacts.

To minimize the amount of time the electrical arc is happening, a fast motion from off to on should be used, where if you press down on the switch slowly, you are increasing the arc duration, which will speed up the process of contact discoloration.

If the discoloration of the switch contacts was the cause of the symptoms from the OP, I would be expecting the window not to move, as the current inrush to start the movement of the motor is at the start of the motor cycle, not 2" into the travel ( back to operational current ).
That is unless there is something causing the motor to increase current draw beyond inrush value ( but for the same duration as current inrush as not to blow the fuse ) every 2", only in hot weather.
 
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:20 PM
  #6  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Originally Posted by FF301
try cleaning the switch contacts first - cheaper and easyer

they are a known problem, use a pencil eraser to "brush" the contacts clean

the switch contacts are to small for the current loading and leave carbon deposits on the contacts i often must push the window button multiple times and then i know it's time to clean them again.
I did try cleaning the contacts before posting because I figured it might have been that. I don't think there is any thing else left to test other then the motor itself so I will just replace it and be done with the issue. Thanks for the tip though.
 
Reply




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:00 AM.