I'm praying someone on here can help me out...

Here's the deal. I have a 97 F150 4X4 and its been sitting for 2 years, I thought my starter went out and shortly after I lost my license and I never got around to tearing into it... Now ive got my license back and Im trying to get my truck running. When I turn my key and try to start my truck it will not turn over, no "click" or anything my door chime is all I hear. I have power and a good battery. My lights come on and my door chime's. When I turn my key I do NOT hear my fuel pump at all. Ive replaced my starter, ignition switch twice, and when I jump the starter relay my starter will turn over but the truck will not start, nor will it turn over when I turn my key. Ive checked the inertia switch and its not tripped. I did however check the fuse for the starter relay with a test light and it has no power with the key turned on or off. Im not sure if its supposed to have power??? Also I did spray a little starter fluid in my TB and when I jumped it, it did fire just one little bit. I didnt keep going due to the fact that I didnt want my truck just running on starter fluid... Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Nate.

 

Nate, sounds like your truck is suffering from to much "leisure time". You mentioned jumping the starter relay and it would turn over, but didn't mention replacing the relay. That's the 1st thing I would do. That probably will cure the starter problems, and then you'll have to tackle the fuel pump problems. When a truck (or any vehicle) sets for 2 years, all kinds of things get corroded and fail. See if you can jump juice directly to the fuel pump (get as close to the pump as you can) and see if it runs then. If it does, work your way back from there to the hot source. Setting is the enemy of any vehicle, and stuff that worked perfectly before, ceases to operate and it's a matter of starting AT the non-working part and working your way back from there. No use jumping all over the place looking for a problem, a systematic approach is much more likely to produce results. If the fuel pump doesn't run when you introduce hot and ground directly to the pump, most likely the pump is bad from setting.

 

Just a few additions to code58's post :

If you are talking about the Tan w/ Red stripe wire, that is only run in the start position, so someone would need to be cranking the key while checking with a meter to see if it starts.

This is fuse #21 -> White w/ Pink Stripe wire -> CPP ( Clutch Pedal Position ) jumper ( if auto ) -> Dark Blue w/ orange stripe wire -> DTR ( Digital Transmission Range ) sensor -> Tan w/ Red stripe wire -> Starter Motor Relay ( small AWG wire ).

Ground is the body of the starter motor relay to the firewall, so when you check for VDC at the Tan w/Red stripe wire make sure to use the body of the starter motor relay 1st. If no + VDC, then check to the neg term on the battery.

If it has power, you would need to check between the 2 large AWG to make sure the starter motor relay is closing.

The fuel pump check, pull the fuel pump relay from the BJB ( aka Battery Junction Box, engine compartment fuse panel ) and jumper the normally open contacts ( red line in the picture below ). This will show if the power section of the fuel pump circuit is operational ( relay operation is controlled by the PCM )


The fuel pump relay if bad can be replaced by the trailer tow adapter battery charge relay ( in the little aux relay panel behind the BJB on the 97-98 MYs ).

-projectSHO89's picture & info, I just did the overlay of the info from ASCII art.

 

Thanks Guys,

Code58, "liesure time" is right and if were my choice that truck would of never been setting lol... I came on here to explain everything going on too guys who have more than likely delt with these kinds of situations or know the cure. The starter relay was my next move, I'll let you guys know what I figure out tomorrow.

Also thanks SCCULLY for the pics and explanation I'll do that for sure, good lookin out.

 

Well I replaced the starter relay and its still doing the same exact thing... no click and not turning over... I did jumper the normally open contacts to see if the fuel pump worked or not and it did only when I put the jumper in. It did not work when I put a new relay in... So im still on square one... any ideas???

 

The Tan w/ Red stripe wire is there + VDC on this wire ( on the start motor relay ) when the key is in the start position ?

The fuel pump relay item, this was to check the load side of the circuit ( fuse through inertia switch to fuel pump ) so that side is good.

Could be the key has been cycled enough times, that the fuel pump will not turn on until the engine starts ( this is 3 or 5 times ) or it could be another issue.
Is there fuel pressure at the fuel rail ?

 

There is no + VDC on the S terminal when the key is in the start position... How can I check for fuel pressure? Thanks man im right here with my truck...

 

Also when I turn my key on the fuel gage and my voltage guage do not opperate... its like none of my guages are working but the lighting is...

 

I have fuel press... just checked...

 

I have no spark either...

 

Could be my mistake, thought the S terminal was on the starter solenoid that is mounted to the starter itself.

The question is about the Starter motor relay on the firewall.

You have the correct fuel pressure, so that explains why the fuel pump is no longer cycling. Until the motor starts, the fuel pump might never turn on.

Not sure why you are checking for spark when the truck is not turning over via the key.

 

It was something I checked before I just forgot to put it on here. Trying to explain everything so you know...

So do I need to check for +VDC on the solenoid?

 

No, you need to check for voltage on the coil on the relay, not the solenoid.

Tan w/ Red stripe wire

 

Thats what I checked... little tan wire with red stripe that goes to the "S" Terminal on the top of the starter relay correct? There is no voltage there...

 

Also I dont know if this is relavant or not but I did check to see if I had voltage to my PCM diode and there was none... Could my PCM be toast and causing my problems? How would I go about checking that? I know its an expensive non returnable part so I know I need to weed out all options... Thanks for helping me out I greatly appreciate this...