Never looked that close to be honest, I guess the S terminal is not on the starter solenoid.

OK, so with the key in the start position and no + VDC getting to this, either the fuse to this ckt is dead or the DTR is causing grief.

Did you check # 21 in the Cab fuse panel for power on both sides ?
This is the fuse for the circuit to the starter motor relay through the DTR on the transmission.

If you do not have power on both sides :

Power on 1 side only, replace the fuse
Power on neither side : could be an issue with the ign switch or Fuse 111 in the engine compartment fuse panel. Start by checking fuse # 111 with a meter for power on both sides.

Power on both sides :
Try turning the key and press on hold the brake, shift into neutral.
Try starting in that position.

Starts in Neutral :
Either the DTR contact for the park position is carboned up or the DTR is out of alignment

Will not start in Park or Neutral :
Check the DTR for power on the Dark Blue w/ orange stripe wire on the DTR connector. ( DTR is on the driver's side of the transmission ).

Is the Truck an auto or manual ?

 

Auto... Im getting ready to head to work and I will check this out as soon as I get done at work. FYI my shifter cable is broken where it hooks up to the linkage on the tranny and is not hooked up, but I can still put it in neutral. Is that ok?

 

This would have been useful information 15 posts ago.

Might want to fix this, so the trans is known to be in the correct position prior to trying to start it, else you are just guessing at the trans position.

 

Been really busy with work, Im hoping to get too it tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

Truck is up and running!!! Thanks a lot SSCULLY! I did not have power on both sides of fuse 111. Pulled it and looked at it and it appeared to be fine but I replaced it and everything works great! I had previously pulled all of my fuses and looked at them too see if they were blown or not, but never checked them with a meter or test light lol... Couldnt believe that after 2 years of sitting it started up and ran just like it always had. Again thank you so much I greatly appreciate your help...

Thanks,
Nate.

 

This is a good reason to have a meter, even a cheap one from Autozone or Harborfreight.
Put this on your shopping list.

HF has a cheap clamp on meter for 20.00 in the store, sure you can find something similar on Amazon

http://www.harborfreight.com/clamp-o...ter-95683.html


This allows you to check AMP draw without needing to install the meter inline.

I have a Fluke version of this I use quite often ( works for the house as well, if you are tracking a breaker that keeps tripping to know if it is what is plugged in or the breaker springs are letting loose )

 

I have that exact meter! Also have a fluke, I used to be an apprentice electricain surprisingly lol... Thanks again...

 

See why they teach the stare and compare method of trouble shooting does not work ?

 

lol... lesson learned for sure. You learn something new everyday.

 

I have a 2000 f150 4.2L and Im replacing the starter but I have no current to the small hot wire that attaches to the coil, could someone please help me out where to identify the problem because it used to work and now it dont thanks. Oh! and if it is a relay which relay cause to be honest Im clueless.

 

You do not have voltage to the coil on the starter motor relay ?

The Tan w/ Red stripe wire only have + VDC when the key is in the start position if this is what you are talking about.

If it is, have you done any work by the transmission ?

 

Steve, I don't believe that one does DC amps, right? I have 4 amp clamps (3 different regular amp clamps and one mili-amp (woops, just remembered I have a 200 amp AC-DC Matco and an AC only)), did I mention I don't drink, smoke or use drugs, but I do have a tool addiction ?
I did Code 3 outfitting (non-standard, custom) and did all my own wiring looms so used the AC's to determine draw on any of the equipment I installed. Each clamp had some features the others didn't so they all got used at one time or the other. My wife long since learned just to look the other way.

 

Good catch no DC Amps on the clamp, I don't own that one, I have the Fluke true RMS version, which costs quite a bit more ( and I was trying to stay away from a meter that cost ~12x what that one does ).

In a hurry to find a meter that would do the trick here, and trying to find something that might be useful down the road, got something non applicable for the current part.

The tool addiction part I can more than understand. Next house is going to be reversed from this one, 3,000 Sq of garage and 1,000 Sq of house.