Electrical Power without key

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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 04:01 PM
  #1  
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Electrical Power without key

I'm experiencing an odd problem with my 1999 F150.
This morning I went to move it out of the garage and no electrical power at all. I recently (about two months ago) changed the alternator and battery. After checking the positive and negative terminals, charging the battery and cleaning the battery post's, I noticed that when I opened the door I got the key in the ignition chime and the radio was powered up. What's odd is my key was not in the ignition and the radio will not turn on unless the key is in the ignition and the chime sound will not sound unless the key is in the ignition with the door open.

Any idea what the problem could be.

Thanks for any help,

Rodger
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 05:24 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Have you had a bit of rain or snow lately ?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Life in Sunny Southern California

We've been having major downpours over the past few days and it's supposed to last until Wednesday.

I know what your thinking. I've already started by cleaning the battery post's the cables, cleaned everything. What I believe the problem with my truck is the ACC circuit in the ignition switch is stuck in the on position. The fix in my case is a new ignition switch.

Rodger
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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From: Memphis, TN 38135, USA, Earth
Check the ignition lock cylinder before buying an ignition switch. The older ones are known to shed their handles, making them turn w/o the key, so yours might have done the same thing.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 10:38 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
That is not what I was thinking.

I am thinking windshield leak on the driver's side A pillar, and water is making its way down the pillar, dripping on the GEM ( Generic Electronics Module ) & CJB ( aka Central Junction box , cab fuse panel ).

This is some what common in the 97-02 MY F-150s, and with the amount of rain you are talking about, time to check the floor for signs of water.
Usually removing the driver's side kick panel, you will find the carpet wet there, and at the top edge on the firewall.

If you cover the cab of the truck, and dry it out, chances are it wills tart to work correctly again.

Don't forget to charge the battery on a trickle charger, prior to using it with the alternator.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 12:30 AM
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On my 4th beer right now

I'm so frustrated right now. I've been working at this problem all day and still no luck.

I'm going to take the advise from the two previous post's sometime tomorrow. my 99 F150 has never given me any trouble until today. If I were better off financially, I would be in line for a new Raptor.

Regards,

Rodger
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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Problem Fixed

First of all, a huge thanks to Doctor SSCULLY. Your diagnosis was right on the money.

Here's the scenario: Saturday December 18th I left my F150 outside in the heavy rain because I needed my garage space for a project. Sunday Dec 19th I went to move my truck and dead as can be. I spent about 8 hours doing as much as I can to diagnose the problem. I happen to be a mechanical engineer with many years of car experience but when it comes to electrical, I'm limited.

Monday Dec 20th I took my truck to a local reputable shop in Santa Monica, Ca. The mechanic called back in a few hours telling me the GEM and electrical fuse panel was wet and the entire area behind the dash was wet. He also told me that he has seen this before and the cause was a leak from the windshield. The suggested fix was to remove the windshield, reseal it, change the GEM module, and fuse panel. If the windshield didn't break on removal the total cost would be around $1,200.00. If the windshield broke on removal, add $300.00.

Three years ago I had a new windshield installed by Safelite. I took out my invoice and read that they give a lifetime warranty on installation and any problems caused by their work. I called them letting them know what had happened. The next day Safelite sent out a technician to inspect the windshield, and as expected, he found nothing wrong with the installation. The mechanic at the shop told me that he was caught in the middle between me and Safelite, but he did feel that the water did come from the windshield.

I received a call from Safelite telling me that their technician has determined the leak wasn't their responsibility and Safelite is only going to give me a new windshield with no charge to remove the old one and install a new one. This decision was the direct order from the local Safelite manager who is a complete ****. He talked to me like I knew nothing. I then told him how this problem could have occurred and if Safelite didn't assume responsibility for damages to my truck, then I would contact the Better Business Bureau, every automotive forum, etc... and let them know how Safelite dealt with my situation.

This morning I got a call from the corporate off at Safelite telling me that management has decided that the damage to my truck was their fault and that they are paying for the entire invoice.

At first I felt relief knowing I didn't have to pay this huge repair bill but could have if I didn't think to stir up some dust with Safelite. Then I started thinking, had my window not leaked in the first place, this all wouldn't have happened. I guess the good thing here is I got a new windshield out of this but had to do without a vehicle for 4 days.

Lessons learned here are guys like SSCULLY are really sharp at these kind of problems, if a problem like this does happen, backtrack to the possible cause, and don't cave in to large company management. For me threatening to contact the BBB and auto forums made Safelite realize that they had more to lose than gain by not assuming responsibility for what had happened.

For me, having a technical background as an engineer and also being a car guy, gave me the ability to not be mowed down by non technical types.

In addition to my F150, I have a 1968 Cougar which is under restoration. I'm actually doing a resto-mod on it. All new suspension by Total Control Products. Front coil over shocks, rack and pinion steering, 4 wheel Willwood disc brakes at all 4 corners. For power I'm going with a Kaase BOSS 520, attached to a Richmond 6 speed.

For a living I own and run an engineering consulting business. Check out my web site and if anyone has any brilliant ideas that haven't been done before contact me (web site below) and I can develop it for you.

Happy Holidays,

Rodger

www.origindr.com
 
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